Okay I have a 86F150 xl long bed. trans is shot and I acquired 86 4x4 Lariat with everything minus the motor. How hard is this going to be. I've got a great background on cars, built multiple motors and swaps for various cars. I have my own shop just never done any auto or 4x4 trans. just never really owned a truck till my grandfather gave me his truck a couple weeks before he passed. Also don't tell me to go buy a 4x4 this truck has huge sentimental value and would rather spend the time and money doing the swap on this truck rather than going and buying a a 4x4. All tips and advice are much appreciated. Thanks for your time.

 

Is the 4WD an F-150 as well? If so the front axle shouldn't be too hard to swap over. If it's an F-250 or F-350 it'll be a much bigger job.

And what engine do you have in your truck, and what engine was in the 4WD? Chances are your engine will mate to the 4WD trans since 300, 302 and 351 all take the same trans.

 

Remove motor from XL. Install in Lariat. Problem solved.

 

If they are both F-150s, the front suspension is a direct bolt in. If both trucks are the same configuration (std cab, long box with the same rear axle), the drivetrain will also bolt right in. You may need to use the doner trucks crossmember. Also, if one is a 300 and the other a v-8, you will also need to swap frame pads for the engines. Will need the correct flywheel/flexplate too. It's not a bad swap to do, just a lot of things to do. I did this swap years ago, and it took a couple of weekends to complete, but was worth it.

 

Both trucks are f150s. The lariat which is the 4x4 and it had a 302 efi. The body is pretty bad and the interior is complete ****. It's also a short bed

The xl is mint. One dent in the entire truck and the paint is pretty good considering it's age. The interior is flawless. It's also a 302 efi. It's a long bed

 

So all you really need is a rear driveshaft...plus any other parts you wish to replace.
Sounds like a good deal.

Like I said in another thread, park 'em side by side (if possible) and start swappin'.

When I did mine, I got the 4x4 front end all apart and replaced ball joints, u-joints, seals, and all that. The first weekend, I swapped front axles. The second weekend, I swapped trannys. The only reason I did it that way is because I couldn't have it down for a full week.

 

The rear drives shafts are different?

 

IS the shortbed a Flareside or Styleside? Gas tanks and fuel routing are different.
Photos please...
Drive shafts are completely different,, Long bed 2x4 has a slip yoke.
Shortbed 4x4 has slip-shaft ....

 

Here's some probably helpful information I posted last time someone asked about a 4x4 swap.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...onversion.html

 

I would swap the rear axle so you know the ratios are the same F&R.
I was going to say swap cabs but just remembered 1 is a SWB the other LWB.
So swap every thing from SWB to LWB (or is it the other way around?) and have a drive shaft made to fit the truck you are building.
Dave ----

 

I was able to go to the junk yard and find a drive shaft for a long bed I got all new U joints for the truck as well. I also got a 6in lift with some 35s. Okay so I've decided to kinda go all out on this swap and I'm rebuilding the trans, its my first auto trans and I've got someone who rebuilds them for a living helping me. my question is what torque convert should I go with I'm going with a stage 2 clutch kit which is rated for about 550hp. I have a 5.8 I eventually plan on stroking out and putting in the truck I'm just not sure if I need a lock up or non lock up TC and what stall should I get for it. I plan on using this as a off road toy and a tow truck for my boat and car trailer. Ill post some pics later this weekend so far I've swapped rear ends and installed the lift and I got 3/4 the way done on pulling the front end off the parts truck.

 

What trans do you have? Assuming the trans originally had a lockup torque converter, by all means use one again. Arguably they (and the input shaft they use) are a little weaker. But people don't break torque converters or trans input shafts very often. A lockup torque converter will give you better mileage and less heat with no real downsides.

As far as stall speed goes, that's a lot up to personal preference. I don't like automatic trannies, partly because I don't like the engine revving up like the clutch is slipping. So I always want the lowest stall speed I can get. But, depending on a lot of other factors like the engine and gearing, you can get more power to the ground with a higher stall speed.

 

Im using the factory c6 and so basically it would be pointless to get a non lock up tc? I wanted to keep the auto for towing I just feel like it would be a bitch and half to tow with a 4 speed. I'm also not looking for a drag truck I want to have some decent power so I guess I'll stick with a low stall speed closer to oem

 

No, the C6 doesn't have a lockup torque converter. You're stuck with a non-lockup.

And with no lockup or overdrive a lower stall speed is even more important. A high stall speed will slip more under normal driving.

As far as towing with a 4 speed, I don't know if you're talking about a manual or an auto, but personally I'd take either over a C6. I had an NP435 in my '85 F-250 and loved that. Granny low for starting with a load, no auto trans slip, heat or bad mileage issues. And I've had E4ODs in a couple of trucks including my current '97 F-250. It's still an auto (which I don't like), but at least with the OD and lockup converter it doesn't suck gas like a C6.

In it's favor, a C6 is solid and simple.

 

so before i order parts for a c6 should i go ahead and try to find a e40d trans and build that instead