Carburetor issue - Page 2 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

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Carburetor issue

 
  #16  
Old 02-25-2016, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 1987_XLT_Lariat_F250 View Post
I fiddled with that before after watching Holley's video on adjustments. I'll re check it to make sure and in which case that doesn't solve it then I should get a new accelerator pump diaphragm?
Climb up on the truck so you can see straight down the carb while using a flash light (hold choke open so you can see past it), push the throttle at a steady rate from fully closed to fully open watching the fuel stream from the acc pump. (engine not running)

It should be a strong solid unbroken stream for each side, no hit or miss or dribbles about it, it should be the same even when vary the speed you open the throttle (fast or slow).

If nothing shoots out or it is anything other than a solid stream of fuel each and every time you do it?

Install a new acc pump kit.
 
  #17  
Old 02-25-2016, 10:02 PM
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^^^This, but

Originally Posted by Tedster9 View Post
With the engine OFF, work throttle while looking down carburetor throat. Should immediately see fuel squirting. This is to prevent the kind of bog or hesitation we're seeing in the video.
And I already suggested this a few days ago.

What did you find?
 
  #18  
Old 02-25-2016, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Tedster9 View Post
^^^This, but



And I already suggested this a few days ago.

What did you find?
It had been mentioned by MI02SVT in post #2, then you in post #10, I would have again in post #12 but he had stated in #11 "I'll have to check that tomorrow" so didn't see any need at that point. Then yet one more time by Freightrain in post #14 but yet still no direct reply addressing that very question.

I though perhaps a more in depth description might help, maybe what he was asked to look for just wasn't real clear yet?

It was in no way posted in an attempt to step on anyone's toes.
 
  #19  
Old 02-25-2016, 11:06 PM
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LOL yeah, "get in line", now that you mention it. Toes are OK, just gets old after a while.
 
  #20  
Old 02-26-2016, 09:16 AM
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If you want to get down to brass tacks, it actually goes back to the first post about timing. I stated this:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...on-timing.html

It will like 15*, til you put a load on it. Then likely it will rattle itself to death. Just sitting there rev'n it up, it will sound great.

Have a Holley 4bbl on it? Or at least the Autolite version? With engine OFF, pump the throttle and see if you see fuel squirting down. If not, then likely the carb needs a new accelerator pump. Or a complete rebuild. The fuel needs to squirt to give it a shot when you open the throttle quickly.

You should get the mixtures set properly again. I don't know if that is an emission carb with the reverse setting mixture screws.
I don't think it is terminal, but I think some fine adjustments to the pump arm will fix it. I don't like the way Holley tells you to do it. It never works for me.
 
  #21  
Old 02-26-2016, 09:39 AM
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Just get rid of the carb the 1850-3 is one of the lower end carbs for Holley
 
  #22  
Old 02-26-2016, 10:11 AM
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It is a std 600 cfm vacuum Holley. What is so "lower end" about it? The "1850" has been around since the dawn of time. The "-3" is just the revision.

I run TWO of them on all three of my hot rods(yes, dual quads). Not a thing wrong with them.
 
  #23  
Old 02-26-2016, 10:46 AM
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Whoa don't take offense to it just like with anything in the world there's low end then the middle and high end and you also have goods and bads in all those

I didn't say it was bad or terrible those carbs are a dime a dozen and there's plenty out there nothing wrong with it if that's what you want

I don't care what you have or run just stating my opinion that there are better carbs out there (and no it's not a Holley vs edelbrock things that's just dumb) for anyone thinking it
 
  #24  
Old 02-26-2016, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by timbersteel View Post
"Once again no amount of spraying carb. cleaner found that either. Others swear by that method, I swear at it..."

Totally agree with this. This worked to a point with Carbs, but I haven't seen it be of any use with EFI. I don't know why either.

I use a propane torch with a piece of clear poly tubing and use that to check for intake and vacumm leaks. Carburetor cleaner is the worst thing to use when rubber or a similar compound is used as a gasket between 2 surfaces. Either use MAF/Throttle body or Electrical Cleaner to check. These won't destroy gaskets.
I don't use the method either, I found it just doesn't work very well. Carb system yea works great, efi not so much.

The main reason I see it not working well with efi like it does with carburetor model is the IAC on em.
The IAC will constantly work against changes in air flow, that is what the fluid test does, it briefly blocks air flow and or adds in flammables such as when starting fluid or lp gas is used rather than carb cleaner.

Suddenly change the air flow, effectively limit the amount one is getting due to a vac leak getting sucked into any gap, the computer increase in duty cycle rate of the IAC a little bit more to compensate working to maintain that steady idle speed.

To increase odds of finding a leak using carb cleaner unplugging the IAC so its base idle isn't effected, would help especially for the smallest leaks.

Sometimes that isn't possible, usually by the time someone is trying to test for/locate any vac leaks the engine doesn't run well or just not well enough to run with the IAC disabled.

I used to use garden hose/water, replaced that method with a home spun smoke machine. Water works great but gets everything all wet in the process including the work area. That and use of water in winter when working outside, it just plain sucks!
 
  #25  
Old 02-26-2016, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by MI02SVT View Post
Whoa don't take offense to it just like with anything in the world there's low end then the middle and high end and you also have goods and bads in all those

I didn't say it was bad or terrible those carbs are a dime a dozen and there's plenty out there nothing wrong with it if that's what you want

I don't care what you have or run just stating my opinion that there are better carbs out there (and no it's not a Holley vs edelbrock things that's just dumb) for anyone thinking it
We're good. I was just curious as to why it would be called a "low end" carb. It is made by the thousands and I've run them forever.

Yes, Holley makes some very expensive carbs, but for a daily driver there is no need to buy a HP version. Sadly even the 1850 is pricey today. I still have old magazines with "$69 Holleys" in them
 
  #26  
Old 03-01-2016, 08:11 AM
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Okay so I just used windex and sprayed the lines (also somewhat cleaning too) looking for either bubbles or it being sucked in and I didn't find anything. I overcompensated the accelerator pump and it runs vividly if I have the choke pulled out slightly with a higher idle but at low idle it still chokes on itself and dies if I attempt to punch it. So I'm going to get a rebuild kit and go from there to hopefully solve my problems. I am getting a whistle while driving still. Bear with me as I'm just 20 and I know about this stuff but don't have a whole hell of a lot of experience. I'll keep you updated as I go but college and work limit my time to work on my truck.
 
  #27  
Old 03-01-2016, 11:28 AM
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I think your carb spacer is a huge problem with a stock manifold.

There are special blockoff spacers made for the 'L' egr port of 351's but nothing available for the '?' port of 460's.

This often results in severed vacuum lines near the passenger side valve cover.
 
 
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