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Help.. Run around with starters.

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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 03:14 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Pikachu
Don't back the second nut off, it secures the post to the solenoid. You can add another nut if that will give you the clearance you need. Is the lug stock, or has it (or the entire cable) been replaced?
By lug do you mean the end of the main power connection? It is not stock. I had to have the entire battery connection harness replaced when I first bought the truck, it had a lot of internal corrosion.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 03:30 PM
  #17  
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That may explain the problem. The lug they used on it may be larger than what came from the factory.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Sous
If you are getting voltage to the starter without turning the key, I would work my way back along the wires to the starter and find the problem.
The large 2/0 cable will and should always have battery voltage. That isn't a problem.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 03:36 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Pikachu
The large 2/0 cable will and should always have battery voltage. That isn't a problem.
I stand corrected. Based on the information indicating my original thoughts were wrong, I would suspect that either the battery positive is being connected to the ignition post or touching the ignition post by mistake. If the wires are connected to the starter correctly (ignition, positive and negative) then I would think that the ignition wire has a fault in it somewhere.

Also, I would try to hook the battery up and see if you have voltage across the ignition wire and the ground without turning the key to start. I believe this is what I was thinking in my head earlier and the thoughts from my brain don't always make it into text format very well.

How to test a starter.

 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 03:45 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Pikachu
That may explain the problem. The lug they used on it may be larger than what came from the factory.

Yeah it does seem like a pretty big lug now that you mention it.

Do I have to use any particular kind of bolt to shim it?
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 04:09 PM
  #21  
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If you can find a brass nut the right size, that would be great. Otherwise copper plated, or at least some sort of corrosion resistant plated nut would work.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 04:16 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Pikachu
If you can find a brass nut the right size, that would be great. Otherwise copper plated, or at least some sort of corrosion resistant plated nut would work.
Thank you so much I'll let you know how it goes.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 04:31 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Sous
I stand corrected. Based on the information indicating my original thoughts were wrong, I would suspect that either the battery positive is being connected to the ignition post or touching the ignition post by mistake. If the wires are connected to the starter correctly (ignition, positive and negative) then I would think that the ignition wire has a fault in it somewhere.

Also, I would try to hook the battery up and see if you have voltage across the ignition wire and the ground without turning the key to start. I believe this is what I was thinking in my head earlier and the thoughts from my brain don't always make it into text format very well.

How to test a starter.

My Car Wont Turn Over - How To Test The Starter / NSS / Ignition Switch - YouTube

No fair the posts on that starter are way farther apart than mine
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 08:52 PM
  #24  
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OEM parts only

Originally Posted by entropyjones
No fair the posts on that starter are way farther apart than mine
Unfortunately this is what happens when you buy sub-standard parts at those cheap auto parts stores. If the starter drive was not popping out on your old starter, it only had a faulty solenoid. The starter was probably still fine. Can you get the core back from them ? They may not have shipped it yet. The new one was made in China or Mexico, and that will be problematic down the road. Your first purchase should be a correct size factory battery/starter cable harness. From Ford, or Swag or RiffRaff. Next, get a new starter from Ford. Or rebuild your original Ford starter. That came with your Ford. See where I'm going with this ? Just like factory Ford fuel filters, and Ford sensors, etc, an OEM starter and cables will save you a lot of grief and money in the long run, and may prevent an under hood fire. Oh - and your flex-plate will thank you later as well !
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 10:56 PM
  #25  
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You could take the starter back and get a 6.0 starter. It will spin a little bit faster. The 6.0 guys upgrade to the 6.4 starter which spins even faster. Still won't help the lug situation but you might be able to use some side cutters and trim the lug to fit.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 11:01 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by FiznUKa
You could take the starter back and get a 6.0 starter. It will spin a little bit faster. The 6.0 guys upgrade to the 6.4 starter which spins even faster. Still won't help the lug situation but you might be able to use some side cutters and trim the lug to fit.
Interesting. That must be a direct bolt in replacement. Is it a three bolt mount just like the 7.3 ? I don't trust the two-bolt replacement starters that are out there. Cheap !
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 11:06 PM
  #27  
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I believe they are two bolt.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 11:09 PM
  #28  
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I think only the 03-04 6.0 starters will fit.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 11:16 PM
  #29  
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OK. Good to know. Thanks.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 05:07 AM
  #30  
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Using your link, look at picture #2 in your first post.
Only the large cable from the battery is to touch and connect to the large top lug with nut.
Only the small wire is to touch and connect to the small lug to the left and slightly lower lug. It usually has a small 7 or 8 mm nut.
Side note, why buy a remanufactured starter when a new starter (35154) was available at a lower price ($169.99 plus $10 core = $179.99)?
If you can get it back, have the original rebuilt for next time...
 
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