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351w build 97 roller

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Old Feb 24, 2016 | 05:42 PM
  #31  
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I must have confused it's specs with another. Would 1.7s really make much of a difference with factory heads?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2016 | 05:45 PM
  #32  
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Just checked comp cams page. They're showing 533/544 valve lift
 
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Old Feb 24, 2016 | 05:50 PM
  #33  
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The 35-510 is showing 533 544 on summit. There's also a 35-512 with the 480. They both show xe258hr cam grind. I'm confused now
 
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Old Feb 24, 2016 | 06:38 PM
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They are both XE258HR. But both have different part numbers just like you've seen on Summit's website. I was referring to the 35-510 which is the 258°/266° 208°/216° duration at .050 and .533/.544 lift. It also has the 112° lobe separation.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 04:49 PM
  #35  
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Side note what's a comfortable rpm range for a daily driver 351. Like what rpm can it pull from and what rpm.do you usually upshift at? Planning the rest of my build at the same time as the engine.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 10:45 PM
  #36  
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That's probably too subjective a question to give a definitive answer. That will be determined mostly on your cam choice and head and intake flow potential. If you do plan on using the GT40p heads it won't be capable of a lot of RPM anyway.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2016 | 02:02 AM
  #37  
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Gt40p, weiand stealth, xe258hr, holley 600. I'm more focused on what rpms will be in the next gear when I upshift. Trying to plan my tire size for the build. I've never owned a 351 so I'm kinda curious. I know my 300 6 didn't mind if my rpms were 750 when I up shifted.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2016 | 09:02 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by craveman85
Side note what's a comfortable rpm range for a daily driver 351. Like what rpm can it pull from and what rpm.do you usually upshift at? Planning the rest of my build at the same time as the engine.

It'll pull from idle speed if you want but you won't spend much time there because when you have 300hp on tap you're gonna use it, this is gonna be all new territory for as I6 guy.. the motor will pull harder and harder the more you rev it up.
The powerband for this engine combo is gonna be roughly 0-4500rpm but a comfortable cruising speed is around 1800rpm so select gearing and tire size to target that engine speed in OD and let the rest fall where it may.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2016 | 09:54 AM
  #39  
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I've been checking all the tire charts online that show rpms@65 with a 1:1 trans ratio. I'm going to be running a t18 so no od for me. 33s would put it at 2469@65 and 35s@2328@65. I'll be spending most of my time well below 65mph but will get up there sometimes on the way to work. I made charts of rpms at different speeds in all gears and it looks like if I shift up at 2700-3000 I'll be dropping down to 15-1700 in the next gear . I'm not sure how much rpm will affect it though because it's a light vehicle, probably 38-3900lbs with me in it when it's done.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2016 | 01:54 PM
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Agreed with Conan. But to add to that, I would think with your parts selection, it would have plenty of torque in the lower range and with the RPM's you listed should be right in the middle of the power range. Are you going to have it dyno'ed? What's it going in and the use?

I'll admit, I'm not up to speed too much on the 4wd stuff, but engine wise, I would think you'll have stout bottom end torqe range for the larger tires. Sounds like you've done your homework with transmission ratios.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2016 | 04:02 PM
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It's going in my 81 jeep scrambler. It originally had a Pontiac iron duke with a ford sr4 transmission. I'll be at least tripling the hp and torque while only adding a couple hundred pounds. If I can find a dyno nearby I'll run a few tests, maybe adjust the jets and timing. I'm at least a whole year from that phase though. I'm hoping to get my body done this spring/summer. I'm hoping to have the drivetrain and running gear all done by spring weather and work permitting.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2016 | 04:36 PM
  #42  
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That's an awesome platform, especially with the longer wheelbase than a CJ. An engine dyno can really tell you a lot about the HP and torque ranges and of course your peak of both. I would think that could tell you more info about your shifting patterns. Just like you said, figuring out the jets and timing are the main things done when tuning on a dyno. Adjusting the initial timing and getting it to match well with total timing isn't done easier anywhere else, in my opinion.

When we ran my dads little street 302 for his '75 F100 on the engine dyno it told us a lot of info about the timing especially. The counterweights and advance mechanism needed an extra stop to keep it from advancing too much.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2016 | 04:46 AM
  #43  
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Got a call from the machine shop last night. Have the dreaded 5.8 roller block crack. Luckily he knew to check that before proceeding.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2016 | 05:30 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by craveman85
Would 1.7s really make much of a difference with factory heads?
Stock E7 heads and GT40s stop flowing more air at 0.500" lift so there is no point pushing the valvetrain to 0.550" lift or more with 1.7 rockers.
 
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