6.0 Blue Spring Kit
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 98
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From: VIRGINIA BEACH, VA
6.0 Blue Spring Kit
I received the blue spring kit for the fuel pressure cap in the mail yesterday. After viewing a couple of how-to videos in an attempt to install this coming weekend, I still do not see where the "green" o-ring goes. I assume from the videos the "orange/tan" on-ring is for the fuel line supple and the "black" o-ring is for the small plastic "receiver" piece that goes into the fuel filter housing. Where does the green o-ring go?
Also I have read the 4 torx bolts can snap off if installed too hard, does anyone know the torque value for these bolts?
Any information and any tips for this install would be appreciated.
Also I have read the 4 torx bolts can snap off if installed too hard, does anyone know the torque value for these bolts?
Any information and any tips for this install would be appreciated.
Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 65
Likes: 17
I replaced mine with a small o ring kit from riffraff diesel about 4 years ago due to the cover oring leaking. The kit came with various orings and i did not need all components. IIR correctly from mybresearch then, itvwas recommended to remove the cover and match the components with the kit. I dont remember the torque spec but it was made snug, sunce you have an oring. No leaks to date. Also, take the time to remove the CAC tube. If plastic, use a heat gun or hair dryer around the intake housing and again on the plastic end of the CAC tube. It will slide on/off with ease and less worry of cracking - mine did and now have a metal tube. Best of luck.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,330
Likes: 65
From: 'Pitlock, Maine
Same here as the last poster. I matched my pieces with my original and I didn't torque my screws but just snugged them up, it's also an o-ring under the cap so no need to crank em down very hard. The kit comes as a universal kit so all pieces probably won't go in every application. I don't know the correct torque value for the cap.
Don't struggle with it too hard, it's not rocket science
But do place wire tie or the equivalent on the fuel line behind the nut so you wont see it disappear down the fuel line and then have to fish it out of there.
Don't struggle with it too hard, it's not rocket science
But do place wire tie or the equivalent on the fuel line behind the nut so you wont see it disappear down the fuel line and then have to fish it out of there.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
Likes: 155
From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 98
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From: VIRGINIA BEACH, VA
Install this weekend went very well, thanks for the support. One tip: as many posts have said the removal of the CAC tube is a royal pain; in lieu of removing and replacing the CAC tube, I simply removed the 4 black bolts that hold the "metal intake" looking thing that the CAC tube is secured to, then loosened the 7/16" clamp that holds the CAC tube down at the bottom and then just "rolled" the metal intake and CAC tube up out the way to access the fuel regulator cap.
Hope this may help others.
Hope this may help others.
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More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 627
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From: Western Connecticut
I removed my intercooler tube yesterday for an unrelated project and yes, it's best to use heat on the plastic and it will slide right off. I used a craft heat gun...VOILA!
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From: Yakistan, WA
Install this weekend went very well, thanks for the support. One tip: as many posts have said the removal of the CAC tube is a royal pain; in lieu of removing and replacing the CAC tube, I simply removed the 4 black bolts that hold the "metal intake" looking thing that the CAC tube is secured to, then loosened the 7/16" clamp that holds the CAC tube down at the bottom and then just "rolled" the metal intake and CAC tube up out the way to access the fuel regulator cap.
Hope this may help others.
Hope this may help others.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,951
Likes: 512
From: Foothills, CA
Yeah, and if you forget to tighten the clamp down you'll get the same crap-in-your-pants scare I did as soon as you hit boost and it goes BANG and pops off!
My little tip on this job was to not break the fuel line -> regulator cap loose and instead take the hard fuel-line clamp loose down in front of the engine -- the cap and all just swing out to do the blue spring...
But then again I forgot to tighten the CAC tube clamp... You ever have that feeling when you finish a job, no left over parts you shouldn't have, no tools you've left laying in there, but still you have this feeling you forgot something as you're closing the hood?!!!
At least I carry a bunch of tools with me on my post-work test drives 
My little tip on this job was to not break the fuel line -> regulator cap loose and instead take the hard fuel-line clamp loose down in front of the engine -- the cap and all just swing out to do the blue spring...
But then again I forgot to tighten the CAC tube clamp... You ever have that feeling when you finish a job, no left over parts you shouldn't have, no tools you've left laying in there, but still you have this feeling you forgot something as you're closing the hood?!!!
At least I carry a bunch of tools with me on my post-work test drives
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