I don't think that is right, unless somebody downgraded it for some reason. A SRW F350 SuperDuty should have a D60. The D50 would have only been in the earlier F250's, with both 250 and 350 all getting a D60 starting in '01 or '02 I think.

 

Its stock, I known the owner of this truck since purchased new.

 

I looked threw that, found my gear ratio, but doesn't tell if its a ford 10.5 or Dana? How can you tell the difference. I want to buy all new seals and bearings etc for this dually swap. I know its a 4.10, but how do I tell which brand?

 

Your dually rear is probably a Dana 80

The front is either a Dana 50 or a Dana 60. Find the tag (sticker, which should be on the back of the passenger side axle tube) It will contain the B.O.M., which will tell you, in code, which it is. Do a little Googling on your own, and you will find the different codes and other ways to tell a D50 and D60 apart.

 

Don’t mean to hijack OP’s thread here but I’m a little curious myself, albeit a bit different useage and situation.

My truck has 3.73’s, and I recently moved to 275/70r18’s. 33.2 inches, or so they say. Not looking to go any taller any time soon.

I don’t do much towing at all with my truck. Most of my driving is on the highway now, and I don’t go too fast since they’re windy 2 lane mountain roads quite often. 55-70 at most typically other than the odd high speed overtake ...

I mostly use it for DD duties, property maintence, wood hauling, backcountry recreation (snowboarding, hiking, rock climbing etc), and all that kind of stuff. Always something to be picked up somewhere. Lots of deer around, and the truck has an old Ranch Hand front brush bar on it which is nice if it ever comes to that. I live in some serious mountains (and live on one myself), so hills are abound. But even though they’re big and sometimes steep I don’t reach the big elevations like they do in places like Colorado. Several thousand feet is all they get to here on the highway, and forestry roads are a different situation anyway. Mine’s lightly modded with the canned Hydra tunes. I wouldn’t do much to it performance wise for quite a while other than maybe replacing the wheel on the turbo. I run it in the 65 hp economy tune pretty much exclusively unless I have a big load on it. Really like the way it manages the shift strategies, knows when to lock the TC, keeps the RPM’s low and in the meat of the torque curve unless I really get on it. It has plenty of power for what I do with it. Really not keen on spending a bunch of money on the transmission any time soon either. It had a Ford rebuild at some point in time before I got it, seems to be healthy. I changed it to Amsoil fluid a while ago. I don’t have issues with not being able to predict when a transmission is going to shift and being able to manage my throttle input accordingly or knowing when to lock the trans in a certain gear, either.

It has a bit of frame damage from an accident a few years ago and I tried to not drive it so much because of that ever since but I use it regularly now here, since it’s basically 4x4 roads to get to my house and snows a bunch. I took it to a shop to get an estimate a couple years back and fixed everything except the frame that they recommended, but it’s still sloppy with tons of play, and squirrelly in the rough stuff. I’ve done tie rods and drag links and axle u joints on it since I was doing the hub seals and had the parts, all in the past few years. Last 30k miles, let’s say. It doesn’t steer/handle well at all. The steering box is likely worn out, power steering pump, as well as hydro boost. They’re all things to get to eventually but I figured the easiest way to handle all the front end issues. A damper is also something that might be a good idea as well, I know.

I’d really like it to be even better than stock, to be honest, so I’ve been looking at an ‘05+ coil setup. I had the idea that the easiest way to solve a bunch of issues at once would be to get a rolling chassis and just swap everything over to a new frame and axles. Would be a nice chance to do some longevity work preventing corrosion and rust and that too. My truck has pretty light rust on the underside right now having been on the west coast for so long but it’ll get worse soon and already is after a few months in the snow. I planned to do it over a span during the summer, while driving my car. Good opportune time.

Just found a good looking 2011 F350 chassis with 3.55 axles. I’ve seen a couple 6.0 chassis like this for sale in the past year so they are out there from time to time. This one looks good and is for a really good price. Even has decent tires and wheels on it, looks like. I could definitely even sell some things off it if I had to regear, but I really don’t want to dive into that either. I’m just concerned it might be too much lugging for it with my tire size and the gearing being that low.

Am I wrong to be a little hesitant?

 

stay with what you have. the 3.55 gears will be a downgrade from the 3.73 you currently have.

 

If you are patient, you can find a coil front 05-07 with 4:10. I was impatient so when I did my coil swap I installed 4:10's in the front and sources a 08 rear with 4:10's.

I paid $500 for the front axle with everything except a sway bar and the steering gear...Then I found a low mileage 08 4:10 LS for $500

 

Whoopsie, accidental post