This looks interesting. I'm new to fifth wheels. What do you experienced folks think?

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B...=ALL4KQ853O570

 

The only negative review is the one that would keep me from buying it or even considering it. Perhaps under ideal, perfect conditions it would be safe, but the minutes the road got rough, traffic was backed up, and I'm thinking about the fact that I have a 14k+ trailer and 2500lbs resting on a 35lb aluminum hitch....yeah, my stress level would spike. Not worth it to me. I'm happy with my good ol American metal B&W hitch.

 

Got it, love it. Have towed off road with it, it the goose neck ball articulates better than my old fat head Reese.

Keith

 

Personally, a true 5th wheel connection is regarded as the superior Union for combination vehicles. It's the only connection that dot does not require safety chains for.

I would never adapt a 5th wheel kingpin to a goose neck ball/hitch ball. I know people do it and all that, just my opinion.

Otherwise, it looks like a nice piece and would really be nice to have a hitch that weighs 35lbs rather than the 200lb variety I'm used to.

 

There are a few around. So far I have seen nothing negative about it.

I might consider it in the future if I ever have trouble lifting the reese out.

 

There are a couple of videos of an Anderson hitch test, impressive strength.

 

Only a few states require safety chains. Andersen is American made and I will plan to replace my old Reese with one for the sake of my aging back. It must be a good idea as Pullrite just started making one called the SuperLite. Almost all negative posts are from those who have never tried it.

 

My father has had one for 3 years. He likes it and it's real easy in and out.
5th wheel is around 15k.
He wore out a few of the traditional style 5th wheel hitches before he got the Anderson.

 

As far as adapting the kingpin to goose neck, it's not the normal long tubular adapter we have all seen. The hitch connects to the ball in the bed. Through the "pyramid" tower moves the hitch ball connection point to kingpin height. A solid adapter mounts to the kingpin. As seen in the video and photos.

The only issue I have found it hitching alignment has to be spot on.

I had the hitch rotate slightly in the bed. I used the supplied torque sequence and pounds. I contacted Andersen, they gave me a new sequence and high torque settings. They also shipped me "anti rotation" strips which I have not installed.

With the new info I have towed 2 different trailers without a hint of rotation.

Let me know if you want any photos of video of something.

Keith

 

After reading some reviews on other forums and checking out the YouTube Crush video, it seams like a solid hitch! I'm sure for my sub 15k Fifth wheel, I'd never have a problem. The price is nice also (~$700 on Amazon).

My only concern about the crush test is that it's not as clear cut as they made it seam. First, the pyramid is great for downward pressure but not as much for linear movement. When you are pulling a significant amount of weight, the compression load is transferred to the rear supports (closest to the tailgate) while the shear load is transferred to the front support (closes to the bed). This, of course, is reversed when braking. This, coupled with the downward and upward pressure from a combination of road conditions, pin weight, and torsion could cause metal fatigue. Metal Fatigue in aluminum is a serious problem given the lack of flex commonly assiciated with the alloy. This is why Aluminum tends to shear as oppose to bend like steel. Their "crush test" only demonstrated direct downward pressure which was absorbed evenly across the 4 mounting points. That would demonstrate the hitches strength under ideal static loads. That did not take into account movement, shear and compressive forces Coupled with up and down movement. We all know that the actual amount of weight (through momentum and torque) on the hitch can vary significantly depending on road conditions.

 

IronCobra, great points. I am running a Mor-Ryde kingpin so the some of the forces "may" be mitigated by the isolator pad.

 

There is at least one other "crush video" that after the test, the hitch is put in a truck and and taken for a ride with a trailer in tow.

 

I also have a MorRyde king pin and saw one of the Andersen videos where the test fiver had one. Andersen just says that you don't need it, not that there is a compatibility issue. I will be getting the rail mount version and that is closer to $400.
The Pullrite SuperLite version retails for ~895.

 

I think it's an interesting concept however I'm just concerned that the moment that would be normally placed on a pin box of a fiver with a normal gn adapter has now been inverted to the gooseneck hitch under the bed of the truck.

I have a normal gooseneck adapter on my fiver (it came with it), and have not problems with it yet. I am considering removing it and just going with standard fifth hookup that inserts into my gooseneck like the BW version.

In both cases I'm not a real fan of how the hitches essentially ride on the top of the bed.

When I hear comments about putting a rubber mat under the hitch, that just tells me that the hitch is infact moving and delivering some large moment to the gooseneck receiver. That concerns me but maybe it's not a big deal.

 

Are you referring to the B&W turnover hitch assembly?