Thanks, that would be helpful and appreciated, JWA.

 

Jimbo digging through my piles of unused wiring harnesses I don't have a single one related to the under-column ignition switch. Sorry for that miscue.

However looking through the EVTM for your year it shows those wires to be 16 gauge----I'm inclined to say that would be accurate and useful for selecting your connectors.

HTH

 

Thanks, JWA, I appreciate your efforts. So, going back to that video I posted, he used all red Taps which are supposed to handle 18-22 AWG.

 

The smallest I'd use would be blue which typically are for 16-18. If the wires are indeed 16 then the smaller taps would almost cut the wire in two. That's not the end of the world but a bit less convenient than just using the right taps.

 

Definitely going to go with the Blue taps which are good for 14-16. I just found it peculiar that the guy in the video was using the wrong taps, unless a 2014 used smaller gauge wires at the ignition harness?

 

That could be Jimbo---haven't looked at the EVTM's for the different years.

The problem with so many of the "how to" videos is they're possibly not as correct or follow real life best practices. A lot of audio and similar automotive self-proclaimed experts do things I find shocking coming from those in the trade for profit, servicing customer's vehicles.

Its good to have other input if you notice or believe something might be slightly amiss. It never hurts to ask, there are no "stupid questions" but OMG are there ever a million stupid mistakes, one being NOT asking for clarification!

 

Can anyone give me a little insight about this plug under the dash? I believe it for a trailer harness connection? I'm looking for a constant power source other than at the ignition harness plug at the steering column. Thanks in advance for any info.

 

If that connector is indeed for the trailer connection in order for it to have power there is at least one relay and fuse located in the Battery Junction Box located under the hood.

For instances like this the factory EVTM or schematic books are invaluable. If nothing else check AutoZone's site for their viewable and printable schematics.

 

Thanks again, JWA. I'm in the process of shopping for that manual off of eBay, too.

 

Here's a few:

2010 E Series E 150 E 250 E 350 Van Service Manual Electrical Wiring Diagram | eBay

2010 Ford E Series Van Wiring Diagrams Service Manual | eBay

2010 E Series E 150 E 250 E 350 Van Wiring Diagrams Service Manual Book | eBay

Those are all fairly priced, shipping is fair too and I've purchased from each of those sellers myself in past.

HTH

 

Nice find, thanks JWA!

 

I see most remote starters have the door lock buttons. will remote start still work on a base model van with no power options? Sounds like a stupid question, but i just wasnt sure if there was anything needed to tie into with the power lock option. or do i just make sure to get one that just has the starting option like this one.

https://www.amazon.ca/Crimestopper-R...per+cool+start

 

I'm not familiar with the 2 way system you posted, but the one I used will work on your van, regardless.

 

I know this is reaching back a bit , but i was wondering if you had to use any form of bypass for the remote start to work ? i assumed you dont have to because of the whole no chip key thing, but alot of what ive seen says you do need a bypass.. my 2010 e250 doesnt have power locks windows or anything.. i cant imagine this thing needs a bypass module to install a remote start..