I'd like to install a basic remote start in my van while the dash is opened up with a hand control installation. The van has factory remote entry. Can anyone recommend a basic remote start system?

 

See if you can get the ford one. I preferred that since you could stop and remove the key while the van is running.
I have a bootleg one now (I dunno the brand) which works well.

 

Thanks cocot, I'll look into that.

 

I'm leaning toward the Crime Stopper Cool Start Models after seeing this video:


Looks too easy!

 

I watched only part of the video but even half-way through it does seem quite an easy DIY installation.

I've been using CrimeGuard alarms for a number of years and overall they're reliable and dependable even at the lower cost end of their offerings.

Connectors or wire taps used are a nice way to splice into the factory wiring harness without damaging any wires. I use those in a few spots on my own van, those too have proven reliable over time.

 

The use of T Taps was going to be another one of my questions. I'm getting conflicting information on using those. Some say don't use them for power wires, and connections should be soldered. Thoughts?

 

It's always better to solder, at least the power and ground.

 

While I myself generally prefer soldered connections the taps as shown in that video work very well for DIY's for quick, easy, reliable and good quality connections. For power and ground uses just like every other connection method knowing the maximum continuous amp draw they endure is vital for their long term durability.

I've used them without any issues and will continue doing so in the future too. I have and can use electronic-type soldering tools very well but rely on crimps and taps for nearly everything automotive.

Another aspect is the brand which would will affect the quality and therefore their reliability too. 3M is top of the line---they only go down in quality from there. Same thing applies to terminals and tooling for crimping---quality goes a long long way to a long life.

And yet one other aspect is soldering is a skill learned over time and hands-on experience. Its not rocket science but it's no where as simple to effect good connections as crimping with proper tools.

 

If I could do the install I'd solder the connections but my disability makes it impossible. Using the taps makes it simple for my helper, who struggles a bit with mechanical tasks. Definitely going with 3M and will probably solder the power connection. I think taps are fine inside the vehicle, but not anywhere else such as the engine compartment.

 

IN MY EXPERIENCE, SOLDERED WIRES BREAK .

YMMV

 

That's a good point Vettex.

 

Yes IF they're not done correctly---same with any other joint whether it be a wiring connection or plumbing----properly effected connections last a long long time.

Soldered joints break if the solder "blob" is much larger than the wire itself. I personally use a "western union splice" that creates a strong mechanical joint, one that would perfectly without solder, a bit of insulating electrical tape over laid to prevent dead shorts. I do solder these types of joints, have yet had one fail for any reason.

Same problem exists with solderless or crimp terminals that aren't effected with the proper tools---they're prone to pulling apart, the connection being lost.

The taps---again when done correctly---work very well. They're as weather resistant as any other crimped terminal that aren't of the heat shrink insulation type. In fact I'd say they're slightly better because the bare or exposed parts are covered by the bodies of the taps.

No matter what connection method is preferred or used the key phrase is "done correctly".

Jimbo if you do this installation please let us know how that goes and/or how it works once up and running. I like CrimeGuard products so would be interested in how this device works in the real world.

 

No problem, but it may be awhile, the van project is just a fill in for when we get caught up with all the other stuff going on.

 

Anyone know what gauge wires connect to the ignition harness? I want to order those T Taps but was wondering if any were larger than 18 AWG. In the video I posted above he used all red taps (18-22 AWG) but a few wires look like they could be larger.

 

Automotive wiring in some spots looks to be a much larger gauge than it really is due thicker insulation.

I might have a few bits of a wiring harness from the ignition switch left over from a tilt wheel column swap I did the past summer. If I can find it I'll post the actual gauge I find.

If a WAG is helpful those wires would be 14 ga at most---they don't handle high amp draws.