Icp, ipr, eot, trans temp- what values
I have a 6.7 that I don't give a second thought too but with the 7.3 everybody always says to monitor heavily. HK &Tugly often give a lot of good advice and always help people troubleshoot but it always has me wondering how solid my excursion really is.
Idle: ICP just under 500 PSI at around 10% IPR
WOT: 2800 PSI ICP at near 40% IPR
EOT: About 180-190 degrees F normal operating temperature, reaching for 210 degrees under load and the cooling fan roaring. I set my alarm at 220 degrees.
FIPW: Typically at about 2.6-2.8 milliseconds, topping at about 3 ms with a heavy foot.
EBP: Same as MAP (14.7 PSI engine off at sea level, lower pressure with higher altitudes), with EBP going above MAP about 5-7 PSI at WOT.
TC Slip: Same ar RPMs while stopped in gear, about 1/2 - 2/3 of that in neutral. TC Slip should be single digits any time the torque converter is locked (about 35 MPH on up).
TFT: 160 degrees F is ideal, but I ride about 130-140 in winter and 160 in summer - others ride about 180-190. I hear tell the alarm should kick in about 210-220 degrees.
Idle: ICP just under 500 PSI at around 10% IPR
WOT: 2800 PSI ICP at near 40% IPR
EOT: About 180-190 degrees F normal operating temperature, reaching for 210 degrees under load and the cooling fan roaring. I set my alarm at 220 degrees.
FIPW: Typically at about 2.6-2.8 milliseconds, topping at about 3 ms with a heavy foot.
EBP: Same as MAP (14.7 PSI engine off at sea level, lower pressure with higher altitudes), with EBP going above MAP about 5-7 PSI at WOT.
TC Slip: Same ar RPMs while stopped in gear, about 1/2 - 2/3 of that in neutral. TC Slip should be single digits any time the torque converter is locked (about 35 MPH on up).
TFT: 160 degrees F is ideal, but I ride about 130-140 in winter and 160 in summer - others ride about 180-190. I hear tell the alarm should kick in about 210-220 degrees.
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1. Never duplicate gauges - it slows the response of more important stuff. Think of Torque Pro saying "Yeah, yeah, yeah. I'll get to updating that boost gauge, but first I need to poll the intake temperature a few times." I know you didn't do that exactly, but it's a common thing.
2. There is no vacuum on a turbodiesel, that will be a real yawner of a gauge. The MAP is the same sensor, yet the MAP reading will have much more activity... after the scale is reduced to a max of 25. We have pictures of a 7.3 that reached 100 PSI on the map - the carnage was epic.
3. I take it the EBP is in some form of metric reading - I'm used to PSI.
4. Counting from one to 4 on a scale of 6 might not be the best use of the limited space on the screen. I use a small digital scale in the space provided at the intersection of 4 round gauges.
5. Stock ICP max is about 2800 PSI. Having a max of 5000 on a gauge with a 180 degree sweep means that all that WOT excitement is lost to a needle doing little more than going from reverse italics to non-italicized. "Everybody stand back, the needle's gunna lean!"
Driving in traffic \
Racing |
That all being said, you did a great job of keeping the gauge count per screen down to a readable level. Screen flipping with a finger is far less distracting than spending 1/2 hour on optical safari for the values you want to see.
1. Never duplicate gauges - it slows the response of more important stuff. Think of Torque Pro saying "Yeah, yeah, yeah. I'll get to updating that boost gauge, but first I need to poll the intake temperature a few times." I know you didn't do that exactly, but it's a common thing.
2. There is no vacuum on a turbodiesel, that will be a real yawner of a gauge. The MAP is the same sensor, yet the MAP reading will have much more activity... after the scale is reduced to a max of 25. We have pictures of a 7.3 that reached 100 PSI on the map - the carnage was epic.
3. I take it the EBP is in some form of metric reading - I'm used to PSI.
4. Counting from one to 4 on a scale of 6 might not be the best use of the limited space on the screen. I use a small digital scale in the space provided at the intersection of 4 round gauges.
5. Stock ICP max is about 2800 PSI. Having a max of 5000 on a gauge with a 180 degree sweep means that all that WOT excitement is lost to a needle doing little more than going from reverse italics to non-italicized. "Everybody stand back, the needle's gunna lean!"
Driving in traffic \
Racing |
That all being said, you did a great job of keeping the gauge count per screen down to a readable level. Screen flipping with a finger is far less distracting than spending 1/2 hour on optical safari for the values you want to see.
Thanks for the time to reply a lengthy reply.
1. What gauges did I duplicate if you don't mind me asking?
2. I thought the Vacuum was the turbo/psi? That is what it said on the app. If that is wrong which option do I chose for boost cause I have nothing in the list that says boost. Just turbo.
3. I honestly have no idea. The radio is from the UK so it probably has defaulted all settings to metric. I will toy with it and see if I can find PSI. Once and if I get it what is a normal range for exhaust back pressure?
4. Could you show me a picture of what you are talking about so I can get a better understand please?
5. So pretty much preference? I should be able to change the 5000 down to let's say 3000? Which then would bring all the vroom vroom excitement lol?
Yes those gauges can get quite small. I wanted something I could read sitting 3' back from the screen. I tried the small gauges, while they are readable, I find myself focusing too long on them while driving. With the medium size gauges I can easily glance and read them.
Again I appreciate the time helping me with this. I also still haven't figured out how to import your PID. I believe my unit is in Developer Mode but I just don't see any of those folders listed on your PID thread.
Volts and gear - they make such boring gauges that I use them as small digital displays in the "corners" of my round dials:
You'll also notice I use a 270 degree sweep for all of my dials (to go with my reasonable max limits) - I can actually see needles move. My limits are set for a modified truck, so others can't always use those numbers.
Your "intake" says PSI, so I'm guessing that's a stab at reading the turbo intake. Vacuum reads the intake pressure, so that's a duplication.
EBP (Exhaust Back Pressure) and MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) will have about the same readings, with MAP reading up to about 5 PSI less than EBP at max throttle on a stock truck. Boost is your MAP pressure minus the barometric pressure at your altitude - so you want to choose MAP or boost, not both. I have boost, and a "virtual" gauge (TPD) that subtracts the Manifold Absolute Pressure from the Exhaust Back Pressure. The virtual gauge tells me how efficient the turbo is at any given time, and how much backpressure I'm building with my engine braking.
There is no right or wrong way. I opt for efficiency, obvious needle movement, dash matching, and a night driving screen with good contrast during the day (screen brightness slider).








