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Just to add a bit to this ball joint discussion. I went out and still had all the boxes for my MOOG ball joints & tie rod parts. Every one of them say made in the USA, on them. Nothing about being made in China. Must be a recent change if that is so.
Stay away from autozone! moog used to be good. I put napa ball joints on my last truck and they seemed ok. They are greaseable. I hear a lot of good things on here about spicer ball joints. I think I would go with motorcraft or spicer.
Just to add a bit to this ball joint discussion. I went out and still had all the boxes for my MOOG ball joints & tie rod parts. Every one of them say made in the USA, on them. Nothing about being made in China. Must be a recent change if that is so.
I have a 2001 F550 4X4 19ft flatbed tow truck and i replaced all my ball joints and inner and outer tie rod ends with ProForged ones. They are all Chromoly and come with a Million mile warranty. The upper ball joints were $34 and lower were $56. tie rods were same price as the ones from Autozone.
I've read great things about Raybestos "Professional Grade" Ball Joints. I ended up installing them in my "Cracked Heads Every Valve Rattle Oil Leaks Every Time" or C.H.E.V.R.O.L.E.T. for short so far the Ball Joints are great BUT typical Chevy - I don't drive it much. If you want reliability you need to go FORD! here's a link to a Raybestos video Raybestos Professional Grade Chassis Parts - YouTube
I just did upper and lower ball joints on the passenger side due to vibrations at 75 that just got progressively worse.
I bought the NAPA Premiums (Limited Lifetime Warranty). Was about $40 for one and $85 for the other. The guy at Napa was explaining how their Premium joints have a very tough plastic in them just like these Raybestos ones and say once they break in they wear much better and last longer than OEM.
Only time will tell. But the Napa Premiums look of excellent quality.
upedDevil460;16004415]Hey guys, just got new tires on my truck (285/75R16 Cooper Discoverer A/T3's) my truck is an 02 F250 with the 7.3. I took it for an alignment last Friday. Turns out they couldn't do it because I need new upper and lower ball joints. I just did new wheel bearings, and was planning for a total suspension rebuild/freshen up, along with a lift and 35's on some 18x10's this summer. So it will have some bigger, wider tires on it at some point. The tires I just got now I'm going to run in the winter. There's also a chance that at some point I'll have even bigger and wider tires on it, but that won't be for a few years. I plan to keep this truck pretty much forever, so I want to put quality parts on it.
So I'm wondering what are good ball joints to run? I was thinking either Motorcraft or Moog. And I would like to have grease able ones. I just found the dynatrac ones online, those look really nice, and I like that they are rebuild able. I know they're really only needed for trucks running big and wide tires, which I might have someday, but like I said that won't be for a long while. And of course they're stupid expensive. So I don't really think that I need those right now, and don't really feel like dropping almost $600 on ball joints. But would consider it if someone can talk me into it haha.
So my Uncle, who does a lot of the work on my truck, or helps me with it, got me some prices. All of these are a price per each ball joint.
NAPA: Upper $48.87 Lower $74.89
Auto Zone (not really considering these, but have a price on them): Upper $37 Lower $57
Motorcraft (directly from Ford): Upper: $56 Lower $89
Just found prices for Moog online: From Moog-suspension-parts: Upper $46.8 Lower $70.61
Moog from Rock Auto: Upper $27.79 Lower $41.79
Motorcraft Grease able from Rock Auto. No idea if this are the same as what I listed above: Upper
But
The aftermarket truck industry and parts is going to heck. Cut those joints open and you'll notice that the ***** and the u joints aren't all hollow. Some of the shafts are hollowed out to save weight and material. If you have an opportunity, go to the trade show and look at the cut away's motorcraft is not always the same as Ford. OE and parts and most of the cheap stuff you find on there is exactly what you see. I factory OEM parts and save yourself a lot of problems. Do your research
I'm leaning towards the Moog's or the grease able Motorcrafts, or possibly the NAPAs. But I'm open to any recommendations you guys have. Let me know what you guys think, or of anything that you guys have had good success with. Thanks for any help! [/QUOTE]