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Sorry if this is a repost but I did a search and couldnt find what i wanted to know.. Anyways, I drive an '01 B3000 near 70k on it, and after driving through some muddy wildlife management area roads on some ball joints with the boots split wide open my truck is now a creaking and squeaking around every turn and when i get in and out of the truck. I guess i was asking for it. First question, for temporary fix, if possible, can i just clean the joints up real good and lather some new grease on them and be ok driving through town for a couple weeks or a month tops?? And my next question is what kind of ball joints do i need to get? So far i have found TRW about $30/ea. and Tread Savers for half the price. This was just a search on Advance Auto parts web site. The TRWs come with a lifetime warranty and the tread savers come with one year. Since I am 16 y/o and only have a minimum wage job I am leaning more towards the cheaper ones but I am weary about bargains and "getting what i pay for". So your input would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
If you are going to keep the truck for a while then, I would go with the lifetime ball joints. As for getting rid of the creaking, I would spray some wd-40 on them and see if that helps.
I wouldn't go too long with ungreased ball joints or your truck will be a tripod on the street before too long with your tires sideways sitting on the ground. Mark
You will be fine for a month unless the joint is about to fall apart. Jack up the wheel and check for looseness. If it is still tight, no worry. If there is lots of play, I would go ahead with replacements.
Replace with only Moog parts if you intend to keep the truck for a while. If you are going to get rid of it, then use the cheap stuff. jd
I too need upper & lower ball joints for the same cracked rubber dust cover reasons. That danged rubber looks like some more of Fords recycled rubber stuff, that they make their sorry rubber brake pedal covers from.
Anyway I too have been pricing ball joints & noticed that Moog were 2/3more than TRW, but only carried a 1 year warranty.
The el cheapo brand at AZ only carried a 3 month warranty, so I wouldn't consider them, seeing that the labor to replace a cheap joint is the same as a better made one.
Both the Moog & TRW ball joints have grease fittings.
At this point I'm holding out for the TRW ball joints, that carry a lifetime warranty, unless someone can convince me there is somthing better out there for the money.
BTW my 99 Ranger just passed the 60K mark & the upper ball jonts rubber dust covers have begun to dryrot, the lower ball joint covers are completely shot, not just cracked. The joits are still tight though.
So anyone with say 50k, or say 6 years on their Rangers, had better keep an eye on their OEM upper & lower ball jont dust covers, as that's when I first noticed mine showing signs of cracks.
pawpaw, I was in the exact same boat as you. About 73000 and it failed inspection, I got under and looked and all boots were split open. So I did uppers, lowers, outer tie rod ends, and sway bar links. All were TRW except Duralast end links, which were in stock and came with urethane bushings. Very happy so far. Now i Just need to save those pennies for shocks.
Well i jacked it up and saturated them with wd-40 to remove as much mud and dirt as possible let that soak and came back and just did my best to try and rub in as much grease as i could... the squeak was gone as soon as i lowered it, but while jacked up i noticed the drivers side joint had some pretty mean free play in it. I believe i will get the TRW joints from advance and replace next week hopefully. Thanks for the comments!
TRW is made under contract by MOOG. Or maybe it's Moog is made under contract by TRW. I have no problem with TRW, I have always used them and have always had good luck. Make sure you load the suspension to check the ball joints.
Dont get the tread saver. Never have and probably never will.
I have a 2001 ranger and the left side front started squeking like crazy. I checked and the upper ball joint connected to the control arm is shot,rubber is totally destroyed all the way around. I was wondering if I can just replace the ball joint or do i have to buy the arm which has the ball joint pressed in?...I went to Auto Zone site and can not tell by the pics they have on line....any response will be greatly appreciated.. thanks...Leo in Houston.
For those of us in ball joint lube limbo, until we get our ball joints replaced, we can lube them with this grease gun needle set, on sale for $1.99 at Harbor Freght. Item 47469-2VGA.
http://www.harborfreight.com/ & type in the above part number, or "grease gun needle" in the search window. Print the ad & tae it with you, in case your local store doesn't have them on sale, they'll accept the on line ad!!!
Gonna get a set tomorrow, as I've yet to replace mine, the lower dust boots are shot, so it wont be long before their groaning I'll bet!!!! Gonna give em a good shot of Marine grease, something that won't wash out.
So on a 2000 ford ranger upper ball joint on the drivers side, I can replace the upper ball joint and not have to buy the Ball joint already pressed in the arm? I assume I will need to press the ball joint out of the arm and press the new one...is there an easy way to press it out and back in? Is there a special tool I can rent from Auto Zone to do this?
ok i got a 1998 ranger and i just did my upper ball joints and it is really easy u only have to buy the joints not the arms and if u pull the two tops a arms bolts off and mark them for aliment later but pull them both out and take it to a press and press one out and the other one in takes about 5 mins if u know what your doing i did both my upper in anout 45 mins aint bad when u have the tools but as far as i know there aint a took u can rent from anywhere not that i know of i alwyas used a press but good luck
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