Is this fixable?
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 107
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From: Valley Mills, TX
Is this fixable?
Bought this truck a week ago. When I bought it I knew the front end needed to be rebuilt ball joints, bushings, tie rods etc. I finally got all my parts in and went to tackle the project this weekend. while crawling underneath the vehicle I found this. I did an extensive search and this and a bent sway bar link is all I found. I cant imagine how hard you have to hit something on that side to cause that damage. The truck tracks well. I was waiting to get an alignment till after I had the front end done but it seems to drive well. So my question is can this be repaired and how exactly should I go about it
I'm an aircraft mechanic and our SOP is to stop drill the crack and weld the affected area. Id love to make a patch and weld that into place to strengthen but in that location I dont think itll be possible. I don't plan on offroading this truck. light truck trails while hunting is about as offroad as Ill get in this truck, I have a toyota truggy for more excitement. any constructive opinions or suggestions would be appreciated.
I'm an aircraft mechanic and our SOP is to stop drill the crack and weld the affected area. Id love to make a patch and weld that into place to strengthen but in that location I dont think itll be possible. I don't plan on offroading this truck. light truck trails while hunting is about as offroad as Ill get in this truck, I have a toyota truggy for more excitement. any constructive opinions or suggestions would be appreciated.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2011
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i fixed an f150 a while back that was way worse than yours.
its a pretty common problem with the f150s with high miles or extreme abuse, they don't really need to be in an accident...how bad they get is determined by how long the owner doesn't notice, or doesn't care, and keeps driving it.
up to you how thorough you want to be in the fix, the truck I fixed had a torn crossmember right where it meets the frame rail in your pic, as well as your tear and a bunch of others. I pulled the engine and the axle, pulled the frame rails back into position (they had spread because the crossmember was completely torn) drilled/welded all the cracks, then sistered everything with 3/16 and 1/4" plate. the xmember was so bad that i reinforced it all the way across as well as reinforced the meeting points to "disperse" the load where everything met
its a pretty common problem with the f150s with high miles or extreme abuse, they don't really need to be in an accident...how bad they get is determined by how long the owner doesn't notice, or doesn't care, and keeps driving it.
up to you how thorough you want to be in the fix, the truck I fixed had a torn crossmember right where it meets the frame rail in your pic, as well as your tear and a bunch of others. I pulled the engine and the axle, pulled the frame rails back into position (they had spread because the crossmember was completely torn) drilled/welded all the cracks, then sistered everything with 3/16 and 1/4" plate. the xmember was so bad that i reinforced it all the way across as well as reinforced the meeting points to "disperse" the load where everything met
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 107
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From: Valley Mills, TX
What do you mean Brad? Coil spacer? That square tube is on both sides is that not supposed to be there?
Thanks F2urd, I think I'm gunna stop drill it like I said, weld the crack then fab a backup plate and wels that into place.
Thanks F2urd, I think I'm gunna stop drill it like I said, weld the crack then fab a backup plate and wels that into place.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 326
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From: tucson/luray usa
as noted, anything is fixable. i would start by cleaning up the frame as much as possible and determine just how bad the crack is. it seems someone tried a cheap fix, so that will ultimately have to be removed.
i would use a fish plate that covers the crack, and about 4 inches to either side of said crack. then weld the crack on both sides of the frame rail, and then weld the fish plate down solid. that should fix the problem permanently.
i would use a fish plate that covers the crack, and about 4 inches to either side of said crack. then weld the crack on both sides of the frame rail, and then weld the fish plate down solid. that should fix the problem permanently.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
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From: Sand Lake, MI
No the tubing isn't factory someone added it to move the spring tower down adding lift, then added spacer under spring to make up for old sagging springs.
It should have been braced straight across to the opposing side when it was done, the act of locating them lower like that provided for more leverage on the frame rails that it didn't have to any great degree before doing so.
It wouldn't have cracked the frame if properly braced between them and bolted in place instead of trying to get away with those few welds at stress points.
It should have been braced straight across to the opposing side when it was done, the act of locating them lower like that provided for more leverage on the frame rails that it didn't have to any great degree before doing so.
It wouldn't have cracked the frame if properly braced between them and bolted in place instead of trying to get away with those few welds at stress points.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
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From: Sand Lake, MI
For the "fix" if was my truck I'd replace the spring buckets repairing the frame damage while those old ones are off and out of the way.
I'd install the new spring buckets without the box tubing where they should be and with new replacement springs to restore the factory ride height. Adjusting the rear to same height changing whatever they might have done back there as "lift" if any, along with that new work up front to end up with a near level stance.
The springs have sagged so much they have at least 3 loops laying dead on each other and then added spring expander/s, the main spacer it might have been installed before the "lift" work was done.
That is of course if the truck is in good enough shape to warrant the time effort and money spent to start with.
I'd install the new spring buckets without the box tubing where they should be and with new replacement springs to restore the factory ride height. Adjusting the rear to same height changing whatever they might have done back there as "lift" if any, along with that new work up front to end up with a near level stance.
The springs have sagged so much they have at least 3 loops laying dead on each other and then added spring expander/s, the main spacer it might have been installed before the "lift" work was done.
That is of course if the truck is in good enough shape to warrant the time effort and money spent to start with.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Valley Mills, TX
No the tubing isn't factory someone added it to move the spring tower down adding lift, then added spacer under spring to make up for old sagging springs.
It should have been braced straight across to the opposing side when it was done, the act of locating them lower like that provided for more leverage on the frame rails that it didn't have to any great degree before doing so.
It wouldn't have cracked the frame if properly braced between them and bolted in place instead of trying to get away with those few welds at stress points.
It should have been braced straight across to the opposing side when it was done, the act of locating them lower like that provided for more leverage on the frame rails that it didn't have to any great degree before doing so.
It wouldn't have cracked the frame if properly braced between them and bolted in place instead of trying to get away with those few welds at stress points.
Some peoples children I swear. That'll teach me to buy a truck after the sun goes down. but to be honest I got such a good deal i probably woulda bought it anyway. just probably wouldnt have driven it from houston to waco hahah.
Thanks
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
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From: Sand Lake, MI
That makes alot of sense now that I'm looking at the pictures. I thought the tubing looked janky but the welds looked good and the way the coil bucket was on both sides and with my unfamiliarity with these trucks I assumed it was just stock. The truck already has a 6" lift and a 3" body lift so i cant imagine why anyone would want any more lift. Ive already taken off the body lift. Looks like my 4wd conversion might be happening sooner than later......
Some peoples children I swear. That'll teach me to buy a truck after the sun goes down. but to be honest I got such a good deal i probably woulda bought it anyway. just probably wouldnt have driven it from houston to waco hahah.
Thanks
Some peoples children I swear. That'll teach me to buy a truck after the sun goes down. but to be honest I got such a good deal i probably woulda bought it anyway. just probably wouldnt have driven it from houston to waco hahah.
Thanks
Got into the truck for cheap enough makes some things simple enough to overlook but some not so much. Its necessary to look at every aspect of a truck especially an older one when shopping for that reason "some peoples children" they are out there and they'll do some crazy stuff in the name of saving the all mighty buck.
Repairing it won't be to tough if you have the tools needed, and yea it will require some welding to correct it.
If you like the looks of a lift and will benefit from extra ground clearance/larger tires, remove all that trash and then start over doing it right with a good quality kit and fresh springs. Fresh springs would do wonders for its ride, I can see how you came about your user id! That thing has to ride like a roll off dumpster with those springs up front
, I can't believe they left them.When you can post more pictures of your newly acquired ride and include its specifics. It's model year, engine and trans combo, axles how so equipped otherwise etc etc and so on so we know what you have there moving forward.
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f-150 1996 please help me
code came up on my 1996 f-150 xl 4.9l P0155 I know there is three o2 sensors but I can't figire out where the bank 2 sensor 1 is .I know sensor one means upstream so there is now two sensors up stream .one on each manafold . Witch sensor is it the one on the manafold closer to the firewall or the one on the manafold closer to the radiator? Can anyone help me please ?
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 107
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From: Valley Mills, TX
here ya go danr
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...l#post16004806
post 14884
and actually my name came from this beast lol
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ist-score.html
what can I say I like the projects.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...l#post16004806
post 14884
and actually my name came from this beast lol
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ist-score.html
what can I say I like the projects.
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