Thanks guys. I went underneath and it has a green Mr. Gasket electric fuel pump mounted on the frame right by the transfer case. I took 2 pics as best as I could. It's pretty wet outside right now. It appears to be a Mr. Gasket MICRO ELECTRIC Diesel FUEL PUMP, 12-volt electric transfer pump safe for diesel fuel use. It's a 2 wire design, gravity fed type pump, includes 100 micron in line filter. 4-7psi 35GPH. Do I need the lift pump if I install a new electric pump? From what I've read my understanding is that once it has an electric pump, the lift pump is not needed. Or am I missing something? If I replace the electric pump will that fix the problem if it's not a collapsed line?
I'm worried once I start cleaning the pan it's going get worse but no choice I guess. Will the cold be a problem? Should I try and get into a heated garge before trying to repair the oil pan?

 

And I'm not sure how the pump was wired yet. You have to turn the key forward as you push on the rods on top of the inside of the steering column until the wts light comes on(ignition cylinder is broke). After about 8-10 sec's the wts light goes off and you hit a push button switch to turn it over and it fires. A couple of times I've had to turn the ignition on to close the windows after plowing and the pump was on without me knowing it just by turn the key to the accessories. I live where it's windy so it's hard to hear the pumping running so it's been left on for a couple of hours to as much as 24 hours by accident where I went out to the truck and without the wind, could hear it running. I would turn the key on and off and it would stop.

I just went out and when the key is turned back towards the driver I can hear one click from the electric pump but not the pump running. When I turn the key forward, nothing. No clicks or the pump running so I'm guessing the electric pump is shot.
I have an 88 F150 4x4 parts truck with a Ford crate 302(bad tranny or T-case) in it with 30K km's(18K miles) on it. With this oil pan issue, I'm tempted to swap in the 5.0 for the 7.3 this Spring. For what I use it for, gas makes much more sense especially in my cold climate. With how crusty the pan is, I'm think I'll have to pull the motor to replace the pan or get one of the "Damian Diesel" oil pan repair kits.

 

once the pump hits it's designated pressure it will stop pumping until it senses a drop in pressure.

and yes, get the truck in a heated garage to do the pan patch if you can, the heat will help greatly in whatever you use drying.

 

Ok. But I could hear the pump whining before when it's been accidentally left on even hours after the truck was shut off. If all I hear is a click and no whining now, wouldn't that indicate the pump is bad? Why would it whine the times I left it on by mistake but not now?

I have to wait until tomorrow to get the pressure gauge to check at the schrader valve. Is this gravity feed pump correct for this use or should I get something else? I want to order one asap and need to make sure this pump is ok for this use.

I've had the truck for about 3 years so the pump is at least 4 years old but I haven't put much mileage on the truck in the 3 years I've owned it.

 

i am not a fan of those style pumps. it may very well be bad.
i use the facet duralift pump. it is made especially for diesel refrigerator vans to supply the reefer from the under slung tank. they can pump 10 foot straight up.
i have seen many still working after 20 years of every day use.

 

Which one? The 33gph/120 inch lift or the 50gph/60inch lift? The only problem is I get killed on the US/CDN exchange rate. The Facet's are about $120US/$170CDN on Ebay plus I have to pay tax and duty at the border. I can get a Mr. Gasket one for $35US.

 

i use the part # 40285 pump i don't remember where i got my 40285's from
some of the other guys with worked engines prefer the part # 40223 pump
yacht supply depot has the40223 for $100 Facet Integral Filter Pump - 40223 - Discount Yacht Supplies, Vetus Nautical Accessories, Scandvik Parts, Garmin Marine Electronics

 

That's funny, pretty sure that yacht store is where I got mine too. Had the best price+shipping.

For the OP-- I had a similar fuel problem in the summer with a similar in-line pump plus lift pump combo.
LONG story short, it ended up being that pre-filter in the e-pump got full. Simple as that. Similar symptoms as you, but with thinner summer fuel I think my filter was more clogged. It got to the point where It'd run for 5 mins and die. Leave if alone and the debris would backwash out and she'd fire right up just do die again. Anyway, took me forever to realize what the problem is.

It could be that your other pumps work fine and being it's just a clogged pre-filter.

Also it sounds like your ignition switch setup is pretty goofy...could be why there are issues getting the e pump on and off every time. Maybe a loose wire or connection.

 

I think the E pumps filter could be clogged judging by the fuel filter on the motor having debris in it. But I can't get the pump to run like when I've accidentally left it on so I'm thinking the pump may be pooched as well. Leaving it on by mistake a couple of times and being at least 4 years old makes me want to change it regardless just for piece of mind. All I get out of it is a click when the key is turned to the rear acc position and nothing when turned forward. When it was left on before I could hear it running. Either way I need it running before the next snow fall, so I got the same Mr. Gasket pump for $35 just to be safe.

If I drove the truck as a daily driver, I would have stepped up to the Facet and will likely get one for my 2wd. I have to take it to a buddies garage where it's heated to fix the oil pan anyway, so I'm going to check the E filter then. If the old pump is still good, it will be an emergency spare.

As far as wiring, I agree. Having two herniated disc's and being on disability has kept me from checking things over like I should have. But I've run it for two really cold winters(-50C/-58F) with the only problem being frozen batteries so I can't complain too much. Especially considering I paid $2500 for the truck with a Western 8.5 Pro plow that was in decent shape. The plow would have cost $2000+ where I live so the truck was essentially free. And neither has given my any problems until now. The new pump will be properly wired when we change it out.

 

if the old pump has a lot of crap in it, i would try to add a filter before the e-pump to catch anything coming out of the tank before it gets into the pumps.
consider it cheap insurance. a $3 filter compared to a $35 pump.

 

The E pump has a 100 micron filter with it. You can see it in the pics. Are you saying add another one? The new Mr. Gasket pump comes with the same 100 micron filter thats attached to the current pump.

 

yes, i would add a prefilter before the E-pump. maybe one of those clear plastic throw away ones. this way you can just look at it to see condition instead of having to take it apart to see if it is plugged or not.