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One other question I have is when I am making the paint markings before cracking open the turbo, does it really matter where I make the markings, as long as I put everything back to match up with the location of the markings I made?
So here's the update everyone, and a completion to this thread.
Through out this process I pulled and cleaned the EBP sensor and tube, IAT2 sensor, MAT Sensor, EGR valve and replaced o-rings and gasket.
After none of this helped with getting rid of the code or turbo symptoms, but was needed to be done anyways, pulled an cleaned that turbo and now she sounds like a straight piped 6.oh should sound.
Drove her around after getting it warmed up and no other codes kicked on, and the P0299 was gone.
I saw some smoke/steam like substance coming from where the turbo joining clamp is , but I imagine that is from where all the oil leaked out. I am not too worried about it. Unless it continues for awhile.
It took awhile to complete this due to me breaking that joining clamp, but I got'er done.
As it turns out the turbo is sticking again, also got the p0299 code again. Just purchased a new unison ring and some copper anti seize. My current unison ring was scratch up. Waiting on it to get to me.
Oh and I have the p0470 code for my ebp sensor. Which I have on order as well a new tube. So hopefully between a new ebp sensor and unison ring this will be done with.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
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