When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I have been trying to get my truck to start consistently for like a year now. Sometimes when I leave it for even 5 minutes it refuses to start. Ill even run the battery dry and once i get a jump. It starts right on the spot. Well now this last week this is not working and I cant get the truck to start at all. I couldnt get it started yesterday morning but then last night start right on the first turn of the key without a jump. I have replaced the starter, the spark plug wires a few months ago, distributor cap and roter a few months ago, ignition coil a couple months ago. the fuel system has been almost replaced (Carb issues with the stupid choke). Now i do have another issue that if the truck is on and i go to shut it off. If the lights are on, I can turn it in the off position, removed the key, lock the wheel and it can still run. Once i push in the **** for the lights the truck shuts right off. Ive been trying to get my dash apart to investigate but i cant get the wiper and headlight ***** off so i can remove the besil for the dash.
So i need ideas of what else could be going on because im soo close on selling this truck when i really really dont want to but yet im having issues getting to and from work because of this.
The parts im replacing within the next month
Carb
Battery (today or tomorrow)
maybe the voltage regulater (which has been replaced recently but i was told its not working)
So umm yea please shoot me some ideas that i can look at so i can find the root cause for this. This is the only issue im having with the truck is starting it. and if your local please shoot me a message if you want to look at it. If i can start it ill drive to you
Ok you said the regulator needs to be replaced because it is not working. I think I would replace it with a good one and see what happens. There was a post not long ago of a strange issue and it turned out to be the voltage regulator.
Also wile at it I would clean all batt connections and cable ends. Check the small wires that are on the solenoid with the batt + cable. Make sure they are clean and the fuseable links are good with a test light.
Don't forget the grounds too.
Dave ----
It sure sounds like an electrical issue (ignition switch, wiring, coil or module). Put a voltmeter or test light on the coil when you crank it and see if your getting power to the coil when it won't start. If no power to coil when cranking then you have narrowed the problem down significantly.
I have checked the wires recently, when we replaced the starter we looks at all the wires leading to the solenoid. and when i do test the coil, how much voltage is it suppose to get? we have been some some tests here and there with volages for the battery and the alt is fine.
but i cant get the wiper and headlight ***** off so i can remove the besil for the dash.
For the wiper **** - on the lower, front edge of the **** (nearest the dash) is a notch; if you put a very small screwdriver, or a wire hook, in line with that notch & pull rearwards, reaching slightly inside the **** with the hook/screwdriver, it should come off.
Inside is a spring clip that is on a lean, & grips the shaft......pulling it back (at the notch) straightens it up so it releases the shaft.
The light **** is no easier.
Up under the dash, in the light switch body, is a spring loaded pin that needs to be held in, then the **** & shaft will pull right out....you will need to disconnect the battery first, or the lights will come on as you pull the shaft out.
Some switches had this pin facing down, but AFAIK most faced upwards, approximately in the middle of the switch. Sometimes the shaft is stuck in the switch, but usually they slide out OK once the pin is depressed.
The difficulty is getting contorted into position long enough to be able to press the pin. The **** & shaft just slide back in when you are done, without having to press the pin.
Why don't we start with what is obviously wrong. Running with the headlight switch out but the key off is not right. If you fix that, I have a feeling your not starting problem may go away.
Grounds cause strange problems sometimes. What I would do first is look for a ground from the engine block to the firewall. If you can't find it, then just make one. Take piece of 10 or 12 guage wire and crimp ring terminals on it and put it under a bolt on the engine and screw it to the firewall sheetmetal. It may fix your weird ignition/light problem.
If the ground doesn't fix it, then you must have some melted wires in the harness. This is going to be difficult to find and repair, so be prepared to work on it for awhile.
To get the headlight switch out, take the battery cable off, pull the headlight switch **** all the way out, and then feel around behind the dash on the switch. On the side opposite the wires you will feel a button. Press down on this button and then pull on the ****, the **** and shaft will come out of the switch.
To take the wiper **** off you need to release the catch inside the ****. Here's a picture.
I found the headlight switch issue. There is a wire by the ignition module and when i jiggled it to get the truck to start. The light issue stopped....too me a few months but i found that. NOW the issue im having is it doesnt want to start on cold start. I had to pump it several times just to get it started. Once started i had to rev the engine a few times and it just roughs it out. Once i get driving (on my way today) it would almost cut out but wont till i pull out of gear it stalls. Usually it starts afterwards just fine. Then after the 3rd time stalling while driving. I tried pumping the throttle and the truck backfired twice. Took a spray of the starting fluid to get the truck running and the stalling stopped also. A colleague of mine told me it could the catalytic converter getting clogged or about to be clogged. I still have the starting issue if the headlight issue is solved. Trust me...took me 6hrs and being smothered in gas to prove that.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.