1984 4x4 F150 351W H.O. c6 automatic
I love this truck but I hate the auto choke. I believe it kills the gas mileage at times and has even stuck closed where as I had to remove the air cleaner to open the choke so the engine would start. Everything is original and I am thinking of disconnecting it and installing a manual choke cable but I don't want a flimsy $10 cable, I would like a recommendation for a hefty forever cable unit that will hold it's position at where ever I set it to. The ones I see in NAPA or Auto Zone just seem cheap...
Suggestions?

 

If it were me I'd clean the carbon or corrosion that is making your choke sticky. There's no big reason for it to be like that.

Just get the #45-225 manual choke conversion kit, direct from Holley.
They made the carb, it's not going to get better than OEM.

 

I use to have the same truck, only it was the I-6 with 4 speed. Had the engine replaced and the auto choke never worked right. I replaced it with a cheapo manual "universal" one. It worked, but not smoothly. This was almost 20 years ago, and manual chokes were old-timey then. I don't know if you can get a good quality one. I think avoiding sharp bends in the cable when routing it is the most important thing.

 

if your choke just doesn't seem to open properly I would check the inlet in the choke mine on my mercury was plugged up with corrosion and it was a reman I purchased.

 

After pulling the air cleaner and looking at exactly what I have, I am not sure exactly what I have.
On the right side of the Holley 4v carb (passenger side) there is a round mechanism attached to the choke and it looks adjustable if I loosen the screws holding the outer ring. There is an electrical wire plugged in the center of this doohickey. So do I have an electrical choke? If so, maybe adjusting this mechanism and cleaning the connection would fix it...????
I really would like to keep it original IF IT WILL WORK correctly. For some reason the choke has stuck closed twice now and the truck wouldn't even fire as it flooded it self. Both times I had to open the air cleaner and stick a snow brush into the choke butterfly to hold it open in order to start the truck. It's a random happening. 99% of the time it works fine. I checked it today right after driving it home from work and the butterfly was wide open on the hot engine. Now 3 hours later completely cool it is closed.
Someone please explain what makes this operate and when? When I mash the pedal down and hold it, should it open the choke? Or does something electrical have to happen?
Thanks for any and all input guys, I really appreciate it.

 

Hi,
I believe you have a truck that is controlled by two elements, one is a coil spring which contracts when it is cold closing the butterfly valve. (When you start your truck it should be closed obviously )and then slowly opened by the heating element you observed.
In cold weather you should tap the gas pedal to allow the choke to set. If the carburetor is flooded and the choke butterfly is open hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank it over that should help starting it.
We're going to have to take a close look at the linkages and connectors to the butterfly valve and a butterfly valve itself to make sure it's not binding on the choke horn. You should also check the voltage to the heating element I think it should be like 7 volts or so I'm sorry I'm sure somebody will jump and with the exact spec.

QUOTE=SwampFox112;15988194]After pulling the air cleaner and looking at exactly what I have, I am not sure exactly what I have.
On the right side of the Holley 4v carb (passenger side) there is a round mechanism attached to the choke and it looks adjustable if I loosen the screws holding the outer ring. There is an electrical wire plugged in the center of this doohickey. So do I have an electrical choke? If so, maybe adjusting this mechanism and cleaning the connection would fix it...????
I really would like to keep it original IF IT WILL WORK correctly. For some reason the choke has stuck closed twice now and the truck wouldn't even fire as it flooded it self. Both times I had to open the air cleaner and stick a snow brush into the choke butterfly to hold it open in order to start the truck. It's a random happening. 99% of the time it works fine. I checked it today right after driving it home from work and the butterfly was wide open on the hot engine. Now 3 hours later completely cool it is closed.
Someone please explain what makes this operate and when? When I mash the pedal down and hold it, should it open the choke? Or does something electrical have to happen?
Thanks for any and all input guys, I really appreciate it.[/QUOTE]

 

4180 carbs have an electric assist choke with vacuum pull-off.

Do you see three *screws* holding the choke element retainer ring down?
Since this came as a federal emissions carb, from the factory these were tamperproof.

Inside that choke element cap is a thermal spring.
When the engine is running power flows from the alternator stator through the spring,, heating it up.

When the engine is running, vacuum trys to open the choke against the pressure of the spring.

As the spring heats up it will unwind, and the pull-off opens the choke.

When the spring cools down it tightens the choke closed again.

Fast idle settings are accomplished by bending a tab behind the choke housing.

 

If the choke were ever operating properly I would not mess with the setting.
I would just clean the pivot and linkage so it doesn't stick anymore.

 

Here is a picture of the unit. The round thing with the wire must be the heater?
Yes, I agree leaving it at the original setting. It has worked well for the 16 months Ive owned it.
I guess Ill try cleaning it.

 

Yes that is the stock 'Holley for Motorcraft' 4180 carburetor.

You do have panhead screws, so the carb has been rebuilt at some point.

I see some capped off vacuum lines, BUT I also see what looks like the vacuum pull off fitting at 5:00 in your photo. ((or choke heater))
Isn't there supposed to be something attached there?

 

Im looking at the lower right of the choke it looks like its a hot air with electric choke. If that is the case and the vacuum line is not plugged off it will be sucking cool/cold air and will cause the choke to even close up when going down the road.

 

The choke opens as it should driving. I believe NOW, after reading your help comments, the linkages need looked at and lubed, cleaned,

 

Spray wd40 on that side of the carb all over the linkages. That will usually fix a minor problem like you are having. You will have to do it every once in awhile as dirt sticks to the linkages.

 

Ah ok cause Ive been awaiting the weekend so I can get my choke system working as it should be as well a throwing in a OEM thermostat and replacing plugs and wires.


Got so many problems going on now with the cool weather I have to fix these problems first before can pinpoint.


Personally I would get the WD40 Specalists lubricant they sell a waterproof silicone lube, I would use that on your carb linkage as plain WD40 could wear off fairly quickly.

 

The flap shaft and both ends of the link rod ride in plastic bushings.
(Gary posted closeups recently)
It is way better off without any lubricant at all.

It just needs to be clean.
Anything but a dry lubricant attracts dust and soon makes it worse.