Auto Choke or Manual
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 2,239
Likes: 5
From: Northeast Ohio USA
If the gummed up linkages are what's causing the issue, brake parts cleaner works well to free them up. It evaporates rather quickly preventing damage to bushings,etc. Lubricating them with graphite afterwards works well. I'm not sure of the environment your truck is in and that may play a part in all of this. As far as the choke goes, if you want to convert to manual, Dorman has a manual choke conversion kit available at most auto parts stores and you can purchase the Edelbrock, all metal cable on Amazon to replace the cheap plastic ****** cable in the Dorman kit. The Edelbrock cable can be cut/shortened for the least amount of bends,for a more direct route.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2014
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I checked it over real well and cleaned it up with carb cleaner. The automatic transmission kick down needed adjustment too since it wouldn't downshift when given full gas.
It seems to be working nicely now and especially when it down shifts I feel the power that I didn't have before. .. thanks for the tips.
It seems to be working nicely now and especially when it down shifts I feel the power that I didn't have before. .. thanks for the tips.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2014
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Well it did it again. I went out this morning and tapped the accelerator to set the choke. (25 degrees here) With foot completely off pedal I cranked and cranked the engine and it didn't' even fire. I opened the hood, took off the air cleaner lid and just like before I had to open the butterfly of the choke, put a ratchet handle in the carb to hold it open and crank it again to which it fired right up.
For some reason when the choke is closed it wont start SOMETIMES. And other times it will. This is why I am thinking just to go with a manual choke, at least I could open it from in the cab!!!!.
The automatic choke is unreliable or something is not set correctly. Also, when the choke does set properly it still does not have a high idle to it. I've looked and cant find an adjustment for that. I understand the cam that is suppose to make it high idle but I do not see an adjustment. I have a manual but it doesn't tell I either.
Shouldn't the gas pedal OPEN the choke when fully depressed? That's the way older engines were...
For some reason when the choke is closed it wont start SOMETIMES. And other times it will. This is why I am thinking just to go with a manual choke, at least I could open it from in the cab!!!!.
The automatic choke is unreliable or something is not set correctly. Also, when the choke does set properly it still does not have a high idle to it. I've looked and cant find an adjustment for that. I understand the cam that is suppose to make it high idle but I do not see an adjustment. I have a manual but it doesn't tell I either.
Shouldn't the gas pedal OPEN the choke when fully depressed? That's the way older engines were...
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,298
Likes: 26
From: NJ
Pull the air cleaner and watch what happens. Usually a sticky linkage.
If you find a good quality fully jacketed/sealed choke cable let me know. Those cheap wire coil ones suck. Mine bent and I swapped back to an electric choke a few weeks ago when it was down in single digits. Was getting too difficult to start cold with a mangled cable and non functional choke. I prefer a manual choke, don't care for fancy luxury stuff.
If you find a good quality fully jacketed/sealed choke cable let me know. Those cheap wire coil ones suck. Mine bent and I swapped back to an electric choke a few weeks ago when it was down in single digits. Was getting too difficult to start cold with a mangled cable and non functional choke. I prefer a manual choke, don't care for fancy luxury stuff.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 117
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Pull the air cleaner and watch what happens. Usually a sticky linkage.
If you find a good quality fully jacketed/sealed choke cable let me know. Those cheap wire coil ones suck. Mine bent and I swapped back to an electric choke a few weeks ago when it was down in single digits. Was getting too difficult to start cold with a mangled cable and non functional choke. I prefer a manual choke, don't care for fancy luxury stuff.
If you find a good quality fully jacketed/sealed choke cable let me know. Those cheap wire coil ones suck. Mine bent and I swapped back to an electric choke a few weeks ago when it was down in single digits. Was getting too difficult to start cold with a mangled cable and non functional choke. I prefer a manual choke, don't care for fancy luxury stuff.
Ya, A manual choke cable should be run as straight as possible without kinks. I have already bought the Edelbrock 8013 Choke Control Cable but am trying to find the right conversion kit for the carb. This cable has high reviews anyway.. A completely sealed cable would be great, like you'd find on a Peterbuilt truck.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 2,239
Likes: 5
From: Northeast Ohio USA
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I am wondering what "tapped the accelerator" means... the normal course of action is to pump the pedal once or twice - fully floor and release it. this injects some gas into the venturii so the engine has something to start with, and it sounds to me like all the cranking you were doing resulted in flooding it.
BTW flooring the pedal and holding it to the floor is supposed to open the choke plate, this allows you to clear a flooded engine. Yes, it sounds like something isn't set up quite correctly yet.
BTW flooring the pedal and holding it to the floor is supposed to open the choke plate, this allows you to clear a flooded engine. Yes, it sounds like something isn't set up quite correctly yet.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2014
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I am wondering what "tapped the accelerator" means... the normal course of action is to pump the pedal once or twice - fully floor and release it. this injects some gas into the venturii so the engine has something to start with, and it sounds to me like all the cranking you were doing resulted in flooding it.
BTW flooring the pedal and holding it to the floor is supposed to open the choke plate, this allows you to clear a flooded engine. Yes, it sounds like something isn't set up quite correctly yet.
BTW flooring the pedal and holding it to the floor is supposed to open the choke plate, this allows you to clear a flooded engine. Yes, it sounds like something isn't set up quite correctly yet.
By Tapping the pedal I mean just push it enough to allow the butterfly to close. I watched it with the air cleaner lid off and it doesn't take much to release the choke to close.
When it does not want to start I have tried different methods, Pump the throttle to inject fuel, not pumping the throttle. Hold the throttle all the way down, not doing anything....it just doesn't matter.
When it works , I tap the pedal to set the choke, and turn the key. It fires right up. When it doesn't work doing the same thing, no matter what I do and try, I end up having to open the hood, take the air cleaner lid off and propping the choke open, then it fires right up.
Flooring the pedal does not open the choke.... and the choke high idle is non existent.
The more I read on other forums the more I see others hate the electric chokes and do away with them in favor of the manual choke. That's where I am headed...
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
It sounds like your linkages are really screwed up.
Throttle to the stop should hold the choke open.
The high idle steps are not (really) adjustable on the 4180, so either the tab has been broken off or the fast idle cam is not free to rotate on the shaft.
Throttle to the stop should hold the choke open.
The high idle steps are not (really) adjustable on the 4180, so either the tab has been broken off or the fast idle cam is not free to rotate on the shaft.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Let's see, Chris, let me Google that for you. Type in "E4TE ARA" and get: E4TE-ARA Carburetor Info Page 