I'd save my money on the WW2, the few people I know running them don't like them and see lag, as well as, higher EGTs (don't even know how that's possible. but it is). My buddy's 2007 F350 ate a turbo due to higher EGTs on the exhaust side. I still have the trashed turbine.

Clay makes a good single plane billet wheel for the Powermax and while you're at it, I'd give his Banjo bolts a try too. I just installed those on a 7.3 and the engine ran quieter and had better throttle response. I plan on doing the same to mine soon.

You're on the right track though, reseal all you can get your hands on and if you still have the original FICM harness, consider replacing it with a new one. I too had a #6 contribution code and even after replacing the injector had an issue. As it turns out, the harness was old, brittle, and chaffing in a few places. A new, updated harness, completely solved my injectors issues and my truck now runs like it should, strong and hard.

 

Toreador is not the first person to see running issues corrected by the ficm harness, fwiw. It appears to be getting more and more common as our trucks, like us I guess, age.

We can hook you up with all the parts you are talking about too, from the wicked wheel if you wanted to go that way to the glow plugs.

We carry essentially everything.

Hope this helps!



Ed

 

This is just a guess. But could the WW2 has a low air flow at some point it the RPM range? That would give you higher EGTs


I got the updated injector harness from Ed. The update being the swapping of 2 of the bolt stud locations on the driver side. Seems to lay a bit better
once you have done that. One thing I should point out is when you get a new in the box harness. I found that it's a good idea to take it out of the box and
place on a flat surface and let it warm up and relax all the kinks out. When I first took mine out of the box it wanted to curl back up into a ball like it was
stuffed into the box it came from. I pulled it out and let it warm up and put some objects to hold it flat for a day or two.

One thing I wished I could of dome was to replace the main harness. But $600ish more was not in the budget at the time. Still if I do Ed knows he will be getting the call.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Thanks Sarge for the update.

.

 

I already have the parts I ordered from you...the box was big. I just need to make a decision on the oil cooler (to replace or not to replace), and I did pick up Clays banjo bolts as well sorry if that wasn't in my list.

Sarge

 

I'm like you I thought about not doing the oil cooler while doing the studs,but I went ahead and done it.kind of a little preventive maintenance.

 

I'm just curious about what's in the screen if anything, but my mind says don't put an old oil cooler back in there.

Sarge

 

Exactly what I was thinking, I want to know what's under the cooler in the screen. You can remove the cooler and put it back, no? Just need a new gasket.

There is and updated screen. I think it's stainless steel. I know in my case the EGR cooler and oil cooler were replaced in 08 so I believe I have the updated sreen. Not sure when they came out but if you think you don't have the updated one its worth a look while your there.

.

 

That's exactly why I went ahead and changed mine

 

Yeah mine were replaced under warranty in late 08 too, I just don't know when they came out with the updated screen, I don't mind spending the money on a new cooler, I'm gonna hang on to this truck for the long haul.

Sarge

 

Here's my screen. Or was I should say.

 

I agree, that sleeping dog bit me. Don't mess with the O-rings, if you don't listen to any of the other advice given, don't mess with the injector top O-rings or the Oil Rail Nipple O-rings. PLEASE!! They left me with a hot no start in the grocery store parking lot, luckily I wasn't far from home so my wife stopped and picked me up and we went and got some food. It gave it enough time for the oil to cool off and thicken back up so it would build enough pressure to crank. I got it home and used my pressure tester from accurate diesel that threads into the IPR hole, put some air on it and guess what... It was the O-rings that I replaced.

 

Just curious what O-rings did you all use. Ive used the Allied O-rings on all the trucks I serviced and never ever had an issue with hot no starts after repairs were completed. I even had to replace an injector after I did the HPOP repairs for a no hot start and the O-rings were still good and never came back.

Sarge

 

I got mine from Ed,I think they were alliant

 

All I have ever used were the Alliant ones, never had an issue, but I also remove the snap ring and don't try to replace that upper O-ring with the ring in place.

Sarge