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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 09:05 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by BBslider001
Hey Darin, so I am just trying to understand...for personal reasons. I think my JW has taken a crap and I think it's the converter. I have never understood 100% how they work. If I stand on the brake and give it throttle, it should not rev to 3000, right? Mine did and then the tires kinda cut loose. I only did it for 3-4 seconds. It shifts great and all that, but it slips if it gets above 170* and then it won't go over 55mph without slipping. It throws the P1720 code (trans slip fault). Acts just like a TC unlocked. It's one reason I thought about putting a lockout switch on it.

I haven't wanted to put this on the forum, but I can't get JW to give me a call back when he can look at it and do the first fluid change. I need an answer because I can drive it, but can't tow with it now.
I brought your truck up on the brakes when I test drove it after doing your injectors. Your converter used to stall around 1800-2000..
 
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 09:48 AM
  #32  
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I guess I am wondering what stall should feel like. I'll test it again this morning. Should it feel like its going to literally stall the engine? I know, dumb question, but not sure. It will go to 2500 no problem when I am on the brakes and giving it throttle.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 10:03 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by BBslider001
I guess I am wondering what stall should feel like. I'll test it again this morning. Should it feel like its going to literally stall the engine? I know, dumb question, but not sure. It will go to 2500 no problem when I am on the brakes and giving it throttle.
In drive and on the brakes. Slowly bring power in. You'll feel the converter grab harder and harder as RPMs rise and eventually RPMs won't rise any further, the truck may try to roll forward, or the truck will try to spin the tires. If you can't keep the truck from rolling through the brakes, you can't figure out the true stall speed of the converter. If that happens the best you can do is floor the truck from a stop and from idle and see how high the RPMs get. If you can get the truck to not push through the brakes or spin the tires until the engine can't raise RPMs any further though, that's your stall speed.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 10:08 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch
In drive and on the brakes. Slowly bring power in. You'll feel the converter grab harder and harder as RPMs rise and eventually RPMs won't rise any further, the truck may try to roll forward, or the truck will try to spin the tires. If you can't keep the truck from rolling through the brakes, you can't figure out the true stall speed of the converter. If that happens the best you can do is floor the truck from a stop and from idle and see how high the RPMs get. If you can get the truck to not push through the brakes or spin the tires until the engine can't raise RPMs any further though, that's your stall speed.
Ok, cool. This is what I thought but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. This is what I did a few days ago. It went to 3k rpm before pushing and the tires chirping. I'll do it again this morning when I head to work and see what I get. I am pretty sure it is toast. I can feel and hear it lock in under normal driving, but any load on it and it slips.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 10:09 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by BBslider001
Ok, cool. This is what I thought but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. This is what I did a few days ago. It went to 3k rpm before pushing and the tires chirping. I'll do it again this morning when I head to work and see what I get. I am pretty sure it is toast. I can feel and hear it lock in under normal driving, but any load on it and it slips.
If it's running up to 3k, it's got issues. LOL
 
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 10:13 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch
If it's running up to 3k, it's got issues. LOL
Yep, my thoughts too. Well f***...I haven't been able to get JW to answer my texts on getting it into him. I don't think he wants to fix it a second time. We'll see. I may just eat it and take it to a good shop here locally and get a new TC put it. I think the rest of the trans is probably fine. It shifts well and operates normally otherwise. The first time it had this problem, his help had overfilled it with fluid and it burned the TC up. I am beginning to wonder if his TC guy put out some questionable TCs last year.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 12:51 PM
  #37  
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Byron, I think you have converter issues also, but I wouldnt' let JW off the hook. I'd be at his front door. It's under warranty, right?
 
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 01:50 PM
  #38  
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I even tried the front door approach and he wasn't there! Wasted several hundred miles of driving. He does what he wants, when he wants, why he wants and to he!! with everybody else. Mine is guaranteed for three years parts and labor and life time labor. That's why I don't get down on him but of course he might be reading this and just voided my warranty.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 02:16 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by 427 fordman
Byron, I think you have converter issues also, but I wouldnt' let JW off the hook. I'd be at his front door. It's under warranty, right?
Darin, what Glenn basically said below is what I wonder. The first time it happened, JW more than did right by me. This time, I am not sure what's going on. He's two hours from me, but that would be an entire day at work I would miss and it might be for nothing. My warranty is one year parts and labor with lifetime labor.

Originally Posted by oldbird1965
I even tried the front door approach and he wasn't there! Wasted several hundred miles of driving. He does what he wants, when he wants, why he wants and to he!! with everybody else. Mine is guaranteed for three years parts and labor and life time labor. That's why I don't get down on him but of course he might be reading this and just voided my warranty.
Yeah, this is what I am afraid of as well. The reason I thought about going to my local shop is because they are damn good and, well, they are local. If I have any problems I would just take it down to them a few blocks down the street. They have a Ford transmission guy there that built the last transmission in my 96 F250 that had a 460 behind it and he did a damn good job.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 02:21 PM
  #40  
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Im surprise as I alwys read so many good eeviews from JW. Any chance your truck has an electrical problem causing the tc no to lock up (aka pcm)
 
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 02:42 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by z31freakify
Im surprise as I alwys read so many good eeviews from JW. Any chance your truck has an electrical problem causing the tc no to lock up (aka pcm)
I kinda doubt it. Was working well until I asked it to perform this last trip. I can feel it lock, but once it 165-169* it would start slipping and I get the slip fault code. I know very little about these. That's why I need him to look at it. My last trans on its last leg never gave me an issue. I only got a JW because I had the $$ and didn't want to have to worry. My most expensive mod yet. I am only guessing it's the torque converter because it's doing the same thing it did the first time and he determined it was the torque converter. Even when it gives me the slip code, it's still shifts fine and performs fine as far as shifting from first second third and fourth. Once it starts slipping though, the transmission gradually gets hotter and hotter though it's never been above 180°
 
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 02:43 PM
  #42  
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I'm guessing this is a loaded question, but what electrical could cause the torque converter to not lock up or unlock when it is not supposed to?
 
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 02:51 PM
  #43  
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Wouldnt know, but the pcm grounds the tc lock solenoid. Mark K. has to chime in.
Just do the mod no harm in it.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 03:24 PM
  #44  
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I think I will do the mod this weekend.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 03:26 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by BBslider001
I'm guessing this is a loaded question, but what electrical could cause the torque converter to not lock up or unlock when it is not supposed to?
There are many things that could do that. None of them would cause the stall speed to go up to 3000 RPM. Put a switch on the system to force a lock, or put an LED in the circuit to see if the PCM is commanding the lock.
 
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