Head Stud Install
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2014
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Head Stud Install
I Have two questions on your guys opinion on installing studs. Does the 6 oclock dowel position really matter? To me it doesnt make much sense because the timing isnt changed with just studs so there should be no issue with valve clearance and such. Unless something isnt installed correctly.
Also what is the best way to clean the block? I thought Senior Master Tech on youtube had an interesting way with a piece of angle iron.
Also what is the best way to clean the block? I thought Senior Master Tech on youtube had an interesting way with a piece of angle iron.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2014
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I've read a ton on this but I was asking because DieselTechRon has a video and he says its never mattered and to me it makes sense. The shop I have a good relationship with said the same. I was just curious if people actually have issues or if it's just something people do.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Shelbyville, Indiana
When I tore down mine to do the heads the only thing on the top end that I didn't rebuild or replace was the HPOP and now 20k miles later it's blown also.
So I guess my point is, don't cut any corners and make sure that you are doing everything that needs done, don't just stop at HG and studs.
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Junior User
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I agree 100% and now I'm paying for the fact that I didn't follow that advice.
When I tore down mine to do the heads the only thing on the top end that I didn't rebuild or replace was the HPOP and now 20k miles later it's blown also.
So I guess my point is, don't cut any corners and make sure that you are doing everything that needs done, don't just stop at HG and studs.
When I tore down mine to do the heads the only thing on the top end that I didn't rebuild or replace was the HPOP and now 20k miles later it's blown also.
So I guess my point is, don't cut any corners and make sure that you are doing everything that needs done, don't just stop at HG and studs.
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Southern Cal
You have to remove it to access the FICM and then remove it to access and remove the valve cover.
Removing the airbox is the easy part of starting this process.
Removing the airbox is the easy part of starting this process.
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Junior User
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Sorry were you thinking air filter box? I meant the a/c heater box on the passenger side. I have removed the air filter before haha. I've seen some that claim they can get the passenger head out without removing it but that seems quite difficult
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,339
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From: Breckenridge, TX
You can take the cover off the evaporator housing box without removing it entirely:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...b-on-hint.html
DIY bracket to rmove the heads with an engine hoist, if you rubber band the studs in this should make it easier to set the head straight down onto the alignment dowels:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12575219
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...b-on-hint.html
DIY bracket to rmove the heads with an engine hoist, if you rubber band the studs in this should make it easier to set the head straight down onto the alignment dowels:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12575219
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,236
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From: Shelbyville, Indiana
Yes I did. I've read about others not taking it out, but I can't imagine doing it with it still in. You'll also need to get torque extender to reach the bottom bolt on the driver's side next to the firewall.
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