help with head studs
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 544
Likes: 6
From: Kalispell, MT
were the studs like that before it went to the machine shop? if they were or not, those parts are integral components of the valve train. if they're extended that much, its possible that they have started to work themselves out of the head, as the stock studs are a press fit. the machine shop can replace them pretty easily. or you can add extra insurance by having the bosses cross drilled and drive in some roll pins. the next step up from that would be ARP threaded studs that require even more time and money at the machine shop. it all depends on your timeline and pocketbook.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,188
Likes: 384
From: Near Los Angeles
I agree with Dude. Consider yourself lucky the studs have come to your attention now. Changing to ARP studs is inexpensive. Have your shop remove and tap the holes and install sbc studs (about $55 on Summit), using a thread sealer b/c they usually go into the water ports.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 544
Likes: 6
From: Kalispell, MT
x2...didnt even think about the shebbie studs. the holes for them are usually a thru-hole that does go all the way into the jacket of the head. if you're gonna take it to a shop for this work, make sure they know what they're doing. the smaller the tolerance the better...and the sealant is important too. i prefer permatex high temp thread sealant. every shop has their preference though. best of luck to you and post back up when you have some results please.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,188
Likes: 384
From: Near Los Angeles
I would add that it is best not to take the least expensive route. I once had a shop install their choice and 2 or 3 of the studs sheared at the adjusting nut. I was fortunate not to suck a valve.
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highteckredneck
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May 24, 2012 07:25 PM
