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Replacement battery terminal

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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 07:38 AM
  #1  
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Replacement battery terminal

Got new batteries installed yesterday and found that the passenger side battery has a nearly broken positive terminal. Had to handle it very gently.

Don't want to replace the entire battery cable just to get the terminal. Has anyone used bolt-on replacement terminals? What did you go with and where can it be found? Amazon says this will fit my truck:
Amazon.com : ABSOLUTE BTC300P POWER RING BATTERY TERMINALS : Vehicle Amplifier Battery Wiring And Terminals : Car Electronics Amazon.com : ABSOLUTE BTC300P POWER RING BATTERY TERMINALS : Vehicle Amplifier Battery Wiring And Terminals : Car Electronics
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 08:05 AM
  #2  
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i am not a fan of bolt on terminals. i either solder on the terminal or replace the cable.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by queen of spades
Got new batteries installed yesterday and found that the passenger side battery has a nearly broken positive terminal. Had to handle it very gently. Don't want to replace the entire battery cable just to get the terminal. Has anyone used bolt-on replacement terminals? What did you go with and where can it be found? Amazon says this will fit my truck: Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/ABSOLUTE-BTC300P-POWER-BATTERY-TERMINALS/dp/B000VXH88I
Those particular terminals are probably junk. 12 bucks delivered? It just oozes quality. Lots of juice flowing through those. If you have a welding supply company nearby they can make up a cable for a reasonable cost.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 08:54 AM
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Thanks I am looking for a terminal not the full cable. Should I delete this thread and start a different one with a better subject title?
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 09:10 AM
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Automotive Posts (Battery Related Items)
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 09:33 AM
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If the present-day connection is conceded by impairment or deterioration.I am hesitate you will have abundant cable to splice/repair satisfactorily.

I have acquired some FUBAR work in 30 years I have been expected to correct. Such as a repair on a cable whereby such current travels.

You are addressing a matter where 800+ AMPS moves 12v...... No workie...... no startie...

IMO: I endorse a fresh cable. Anything less is Hack.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 09:34 AM
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I think the thread title is fine, and if you feel you want to change it you can select "edit" then "advanced" and change it that way.

The FTE'ers are right, the terminal needs to be rather robust. I think your biggest problem with the passenger side is going to be finding a pass through type terminal. Even then, if/when you have to cut the cable to get it off the OEM terminal you may be too short on the cable to install a new terminal.

Just some things to consider.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 10:22 AM
  #8  
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I suggest going to the military style terminals and properly crimping/soldering eyelets. This way, you're set long term.

Military Battery Terminals Boots Set for A Heavy Duty Dual Battery Set Up | eBay
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 10:54 AM
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X2 on military style terminals if your cable is good. The lug terminal adds legth to make up what you cut off on the OEM terminal. I did all mine and I'm Happy. If you decide to use a car audio type like the one you linked use one that has Allen screws to pinch the wire they usually have larger screws and won't strip as easy as the Philips. Good luck.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 11:18 AM
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That is a great idea! This will solve a problem that I am just getting to as well. My cables are in great shape just like Queen of Spades, but my terminals are looking worn and beat up. I recently put on new stainless bolts and nuts in order to make it easier to get them to clamp correctly, but these now have a spot on my spring modification list.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 11:24 AM
  #11  
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Regardless of the type of repair it's important to check for voltage drop under load. There's a reason the pros don't recommend this.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 11:50 AM
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I like those military terminals. I am facing a similar problem, as my passenger side positive terminal is cracked and ready to split in half. Its holding fro now, but I don;t think it will survive another removal. I also was not looking forward to having to replace such a long and "complex" cable. I think I just found my solution.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 12:02 PM
  #13  
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I am not suggesting that you pay this price. It is more for reference as to how to install, click on each individual picture. Also, look at the cable end connectors. This is what you want to solder to ensure you have a good connection.


Amazon.com: Military Spec Battery Terminal Top Post Kit: Automotive Amazon.com: Military Spec Battery Terminal Top Post Kit: Automotive
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 02:28 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by lordtavo


X2 on military style terminals if your cable is good. The lug terminal adds legth to make up what you cut off on the OEM terminal..
Just make sure you use the correct crimper, and use adhesive-lined heat shrink to cover with. That will stop corrosion in the cable.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 03:55 PM
  #15  
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Yes, proper crimping, soldering, and adhesive shrink tubing is a must. I normally use an impact style crimper
Hammer Indent Crimp Tool - - Amazon.com Hammer Indent Crimp Tool - - Amazon.com
when working with battery cables, but this requires they be on the ground. It may not be a bad idea to remove entirely to clean all connections properly. That said, I'm going to buy a hand held hydraulic crimper with a range of die sizes and peform the job on the truck. The dies will produce a superior crimp anyway.

TMS® 16 Ton Hydraulic Wire Battery Cable Lug Terminal Crimper Crimping Tool 11 Dies - - Amazon.com TMS® 16 Ton Hydraulic Wire Battery Cable Lug Terminal Crimper Crimping Tool 11 Dies - - Amazon.com
 
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