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Pulled this truck out of the fence row where it's been since at least 2010..
Just replaced fuel pump now it runs and runs smoothly...
Now I need some advice;
It needs the following replaced, drag link (the golden rod, most expensive piece in the steering)
Power steering pump
Valve cover gasket
Carbrator
Interior( dash and seat, mice got'm)
Body work
Fuel gauge
Fuel tank either replaced or cleaned
And clutch...
Where does a guy start?
Should I do anything to the transmission while having the clutch replaced?
Well, glad that "golden rod" business is cleared up, but your truck does not have a drag link. That term refers to the link from the pitman arm on the steering box to the front spindle steering arm on a straight axle application. Normally consists of 2 tie rod ends back to back.
TTB steering linkage is 4 distinct tie rod ends. The biggest piece is the one that connects to the steering box. It's really not that expensive, neither are the other tie rod ends.
If the engine "runs, and runs smoothly", why on earth would you need to replace the carburetor?
If it ain't broke, don't try and fix it.
Was jus told that was one of the many reasons it was parked... I do remember it being worked on several times growing up..
I'm going to change the oil and filter on this next day or so (unless I get called into work) is there any thing to add to the oil since it had been sitting?
I wouldn't 'add' anything to the oil.
If there is a bunch of sludge in the engine you don't want to stir it all up at once.
I might start using a high detergent (diesel) oil. That will gradually remove any deposits and keep them in suspension for the filter to remove.
If the truck has stuck lifters or rings from having sat so long I can see running something like Rislone, MMO or ATF in there *before* changing the oil.
Definitely use a quality filter like Baldwin, Hastings, Wix (also NAPA) or even Motorcraft.
Stay away from filters with less filter media and cardboard caps like "the orange can of death".
When the transmission is dropped for the clutch replacement, think about replacing the rear main seal of the engine and take the flywheel to a machine shop to be resurfaced. There is no better time than now!
I agree with ArdWrknTrk's advice regarding use of a high detergent oil. The engine in my 1986 4.9L F150 had a great deal of oil sludge when purchased. After years of using Shell Rotella [diesel oil], the sludge is all but gone.
I'll say my typical thing here: These truck, and especially those that have been sitting, are like onions. They have MANY layers to peel and you'll cry doing so. But, it is worth it.
I'll say my typical thing here: These truck, and especially those that have been sitting, are like onions. They have MANY layers to peel and you'll cry doing so. But, it is worth it.
Bought stuff to replace valve cover gasket, cold front rolled in early ended up working inside the truck..
Compared to other projects on here I've gathered I have a pretty decent truck to build from..
Peeled back the floor cover and even though it was totally soaked,,, no rust!
Was a little nervous of what id find...
Was very surprised... No rust!
Cab is in good shape, bed not so much but im planning on finding a flat bed...
My only concern... Looks a litfle more than surface...
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