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I am trying to replace the ball joints on the passenger side of my 1990 F150 4x4. I got everything off and I am down to the spindle. I soaked the edge with penetrating oil hoping it might help. I can't figure out how I am suppose to get the spindle off. I seen video's of someone using a chisel & a hammer, a screwdriver & a hammer, and even a thick piece of wood & a hammer. Replacing the ball joints are something I need for inspection. Any help would be nice. Thank you.
If you have a slide hammer they make a tool that fit the end of it and threads onto the spindle then just slide the hammer and it comes off.
With out that you will need to be very careful not to damage the bearing surfaces on the spindle, should be very obvious where they are. In between that will be just a cast looking surface, you will need a hammer to hit in between the 2 bearing surfaces. If you feel safer to use a block of wood you can, but that will absorb some of the energy. Once you get one side to pop free a little you can take a screw driver or pry bar and just hit on the opposite side and work the spindle off. Be VERY careful with this method, it works but if you slip you can damage the bearing surface.
Remember to pack grease in the needle bearing inside the spindle when you reassemble it.
i usually wrap spindle with a rag to protect threads and lightly smack with dead blow hammer all the way around.it will be stubborn if not apart in a while.worst case you can get the slide hammer attachment that threads on spindle.make sure to smear antiseize on it afterwards
I've used a block of wood and BFH before with much success. Put the wood on the spindle so you don't mar it with the hammer, then hammer away on alternating sides a few times. By that point, there's usually enough of a gap to get a good bite with a chisel. Gently tap the chisel into the gap and it will work itself out.
Never used a slide hammer on them, but I can see that working quite well also. You can rent them at any major parts store. They may even have the spindle adapter to go with it...
I've used a block of wood and BFH before with much success. Put the wood on the spindle so you don't mar it with the hammer, then hammer away on alternating sides a few times. By that point, there's usually enough of a gap to get a good bite with a chisel. Gently tap the chisel into the gap and it will work itself out.
Never used a slide hammer on them, but I can see that working quite well also. You can rent them at any major parts store. They may even have the spindle adapter to go with it...
That method has always worked for me in the past in the rust belt.
I had to also use some heat from a propane torch + BFH to get mine to break loose. I've seen a puller used but be careful to not push out the welch plug in the right hand driveshaft yoke. Stay persistent.
I've never tried a slide hammer, but I intend to when I change my D50 U-joints next summer.
I've never been able to get spindle off with a regular hammer (no matter how big). They've always been rusted in too bad. I made a puller for a Dana 44 that I've explained on other threads. No one likes my method so I won't bother retyping it here. But you definitely need heavy artillery with rusted-in spindles.
Then clean it up and use anti-seize when you put it back together.
Well here is a bit of a update. My uncle helped by finding several thick pieces of wood for me. I already found a well sized hammer bigger than a claw hammer definitely. So I took a shirt he gave me as a rag and put it around the spindle so pieces of wood wouldn't get onto it. So banged away. Then he did some since he is stronger than me. After awhile it slowly came off. Now it is to the point where if you bang on one side it will come towards you yet if you bang on the other side the side you just worked on will go back into place.