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Old Jan 14, 2016 | 12:06 PM
  #1  
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Darksider question

I have a 350 in my 53 with HEI distributor. I have had an issue where it would crank but not fire. If I knock on top of the distributor it would start. Today on the way to work the engine quit running 5 times on the highway. I got out and tapped on top of the distributor and finally got to work. What is the cause of this? Is there another type of distributor that would be better to use then the HEI?
 
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Old Jan 14, 2016 | 12:19 PM
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HEI's are known to have module and coil issues. They are pretty good distributors when set up and working right but in stock form they are prone to issues. I would look at replacing the module, coil and cap (they like to leak arc) and you will probably be ok.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2016 | 01:57 PM
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take the module out and have it tested by a parts store. If it tests good have them run it again because often they will fail when they get hot and that may take a few test runs to get it warmed up. Also consider a whole new unit for about $150 because it won't take more than about 2 components to get close to that costs. I'm thinking pretty hard about getting an MSD E-curve distributor. A lot more money but all solid state and nearly 100 programmable advance curves.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2016 | 02:48 PM
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Tapping won't resolve any electronic issues or spark leaks. Most likely a loose wire/poor connection or coincidence. #1 cause of stock HEI no-start/no-run issues is spark leak through the rotor. Remove the rotor, lift the center tab and look underneath for signs of arcing. Also check the bottom of the rotor for the same. Whenever replacing HEI rotors place a small smear of dielectric grease under the tab in the depression to prevent/reduce the chance of arc-through.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2016 | 02:51 PM
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LIke said, the HEI can have issues. Intermittent electronics is not something I want to troubleshoot along the road, any road. I was about ten miles into the maiden voyage with Blue, my F4 when the new HEI ignition went grave yard dead. Tapped, checked voltage, etc but had it hauled home. Sent the dist back to the vendor and bought a new one. Vendor replaced original dist so I now carry a spare.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2016 | 04:44 PM
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I replaced the coil not too long ago and the cap and rotor. I put some grease like Cbeav suggested. Dave you talked like there was something to do past it being stock. What can be done to make this distributor better then stock?
 
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Old Jan 14, 2016 | 06:48 PM
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I had a 85 ?GMC p/u that would leave me stranded now and then. An old gm mech. told me to put a jumper wire between the a and c pins on the harness side of the wires going to the dist. Kinda like going in limp mode these days. The truck ran like crap but I wasn't walking. Gotta make sure there is enough grease under the module to help keep it cool.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2016 | 11:35 PM
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X2 on the pick up coil.......usually they will run or not, but I have seen the odd intermittent one. Had this problem on a buddy's older Corvette, and on my 70 Cutlass as well. Make sure you check it, even new ones, as I got a few over the counter from Napa that were no good out of the box. Good luck.

Edit......After reading this again, I wanted to differentiate between the ignition coil and the pick up coil, they're
different animals, the pickup coil is under the rotor.
 

Last edited by Rusted56; Jan 15, 2016 at 12:22 AM. Reason: reread post
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