Ok, got the bad news today... My 2001 F250 V10 needs a new passenger head due to the spark plug blow out issue. Someone tried to fix it once and obviously didn't do it right and it blew again and the hole is too big to repair.

I figure since I need to replace the passenger head I might as well do headers. Since the front end needs to come apart I might as well do the 05 updated front end...

Figure I should pull the other head and do a top end rebuild... Since I am doing a top end I might as well time sert every single spark plug hole so I don't have to do this again.

I have access to a cherry picker, engine stand and a shop to do the work.. It's been a few years since I have built an engine... Any other advice while I have the top end off?

My brother was suggesting a 6.0 transmission cooler.

I figure I need to start adding up costs to see if its worth the hassle or send her to the bone yard. Hence the title!

I am a new father to a baby boy so I need to think a little more logical instead of basing off impulse.

Here is the truck in question.



And here was my last project.

 

Your truck looks to be in good shape still. The 05 front end could be done later to cut costs if money is a concern. I think if you have the ability and are able to perform the work yourself it might be worth it. I'm sure the trucks resale value is what's in question for you regarding dropping cash on repairs. If you know what you have and you think it's worth it then I say go for it as otherwise unless you go much newer you just get somebody else's problem. I'm not sure of your area but in Alberta used HD trucks have usually been worked fairly hard.

 

Could always source used heads, put the helicoils in the used heads, and just put the heads on.

I'm assuming yours is a 2-valve head.

 

Thorley Headers $837.00
Passenger Side Head $500-600 + shipping
Head Gasket - Felpro $42.97ea (2) + shipping
Head Bolt kit - Felpro $47.79 (2) + shipping
Timesert kit, $433.84 + shipping
Time sert plugs (10) - $12ea

Total: $2000 +/- depending on shipping and pricing... I assume this would get me back on the road reliably. I could save a bunch of cash if I didn't do headers or timeserts on the heads, but is it really worth the risk? Also, anyone know if ARP makes head studs/bolts for this truck? Yes, my truck is 2 valve.

 

For that price, why don't you go with a reman long block? You ran without headers this long, so reuse or buy used manifolds if yours have gone bad. Here is a link for a remanufactured long block for about a grand more than what you have quoted.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-V10-6-8l-REMANUFACTURED-Engine-Zero-Miles-F250-F350-E350-20-Valve-2000-2005/291634674057?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D10733e370081430d8a4adaa81e5711f9%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D16%26sd%3D272089008538

 

I am really concerned with spitting plugs again if I don't sleeve it. My buddies 99 spit 3 plugs after 30k miles. He only has like 45k miles on his truck to date because he needs to sleeve his as well. Hes always worried its gonna leave him stranded so he doesn't drive it often.

 

I would most defiantly bring her back to life. The cost of getting a newer truck just isn't worth it. If you like the truck that much and you own it you might as well do the work and at least this time you know you will have peace of mind that it was done right and will last a long time. Will look very nice with the 05 up front end as well.

 

check your timing chains, nylon guides and the chain tensioners. ford has a nice tool that will hold the cam in place while removing the timing chains. otherwise that sucker will spin hard to a neutral position and can screw crap up. it's pretty violent too. lol

 

Timesert has a double sized repair kit that works great

 

my take is do the long block or reman engine.

my theory on spark plug spitting...since it does not happen to everyone...I had three 5.4's and one 6.8 and never shot a plug, meanwhile my brother had one 5.4 and shot one after the other for a total of four on the same engine in different sparkplug positions.....I think the cause is compression pressure increase as carbon build up occurs and the spark plug threads are the point of failure......furthur indicated by the gluing effect the carbon has which results in broken plugs during regular maint.

my brother will run his oil to the OEM recomendation and never change it early....he buys cheap gas....does not warm up his engine since he thinks running it will warm it up...he does not use sync oil, he does not use fuel additives....will keep a battery until it dies...etc

I use fuel additives on a regular basis to decarb the engine...especially on long trips so the fuel runs thru quicker.....Ive never shot a plug and never broken one.

 

I also have a 99 , with the 2 valve 6.8.
I have had the truck just a bit over 2 years now, and have put almost 50k miles on it .
I will be changing plugs this week, as part of a maintenance schedule.
I have not had any plugs blow, but I can see that one head looks to have possibly been replaced, it is cleaner than the other.

Most of what I have read, is it is not the 2 valve engine that has as many complaints As the 3 valve, but seeing the one cleaner head, leads me to believe some do have problems.

I see your other project was a lightning , and it is very easy to get carried away with modifications.

Keep this one simple.
Timesert makes a repair for your problem.
Fix the head you have, skip the headers, and the 05, swap.
Save yourself money , down time .

 

I am looking into the 5600 time-sert kit to see if that kit is big enough to fix the current hole that is the problem. I have no idea how the truck was maintained before me... However, I have done a ton of maintenance to the truck and had the engine cleaned using the BG kit to assist breaking down any carbon in the engine. The only other problem currently with the truck is a bad door lock actuator in the passenger rear and my steering pump is starting to leak, otherwise I have had every other item fixed and full maintenance on the truck when I bought it. It has new coils, injectors, plugs, fuel filter, pcv the works. I used to work for a mechanic shop when I was younger and know what neglecting a motor can do.

 

Repair what is needed. If another plugs spits out, you will have the knowledge to repair it correctly. Unless you are towing heavy or a lot, there is no need for headers or a 6.0 tranny cooler. These can be added later if needed. Besides, you have a more important addition that will require more money than you expect. Keep the truck running and do proper maintenance and you should be able to get at least another 75-100k out of her.

 

[QUOTE=speakerfritz;15923665]my take is do the long block or reman engine.

my theory on spark plug spitting...since it does not happen to everyone...I had three 5.4's and one 6.8 and never shot a plug, meanwhile my brother had one 5.4 and shot one after the other for a total of four on the same engine in different sparkplug positions.....I think the cause is compression pressure increase as carbon build up occurs and the spark plug threads are the point of failure......furthur indicated by the gluing effect the carbon has which results in broken plugs during regular maint.QUOTE]

what happened is ford didn't put enough threads in the early heads and the original torque specs were too low.
we didn't have any problems with our fleet of ford vehicles until their first spark plug change at 60K. we were able to get a couple of them warrantied but some went over 75K and ford was refusing them.


I work for a socal municipality with about 500 vehicles and a lot of them were fords in from 96 to 05. most of our 5.4 vehicles were 01-04 cng pick ups and vans.
we thought it was related to them being cng until a tsb came out with updated spark plug torque specs.
the first couple of repairs we pulled the cabs and bodies off of pick ups and vans but that thrill went away so then we just pulled the heads.

 

Ok, so mechanic had the biggest time-sert kit, wont fit. Hole is too hogged out. So minimum new head... After reading it looks like I need to get some special tools so the cams don't spin when pulling the heads, and then have to retime etc... Looks like a lot of work. I called local salvage yard here and they have a complete engine with 122k on it for $1500... Doesn't seem horrible. It's a non EGR engine.