I have now got my head around most of the app & since I bought the OBD2MX adapter it has been seemless. But I would like to get an accurate reading on mpg (both instant & average) I have played around with the correction factor in vehicle settings but it isn't consistent. Example, when towing it shows say 9.5 on TP, hand calculated is 13, with same correction factor normal driving will show around 23 on TP, hand calculated is 18. The correction factor I am using is 0.8. Before I changed the correction factor it would read really high (25-28 mpg). The other thing I would like to work is the miles to empty but that is also pretty crazy, it will start off at around 7-800 mte, then by around 250 miles it will be saying I have no miles left. One reason why I would like to have this working is that my fuel gauge has been reading high for a long time so I have to keep a track on my fuel consumption & mileage (or bite the bullet & drop the tank but I want to leave that for when it gets warm!)

 

Torque Pro uses the same sensors in the truck as the PCM and the overhead does, so if things are screwy with the sensors - both the PCM and Torque Pro are going to have issues with accuracy. The overhead is notoriously inaccurate when the sensors are all good - so I don't know if there is an answer here. You can create your own gauge that uses different PIDs to calculate mileage, it could incorporate MFD, RPM, and MPH.

I don't have my tablet here to work out the details, but you would take the number of the PID and put it in brackets in the new formula. An example of this is the Manifold Gauge Pressure (boost):

Long name:Barometer
Short name: BARO
PID: 221442
Max/Min: 15.0/10.0
Unit: PSI
Equation: ((A*256)+B)*0.03625
Header: C410F1
The Min/Max values above are for realistic altitudes, but those who traverse the Rockies may see lees than 10 PSI (over 10,000 feet). If you do, you can change the Max/Min to 15.0/9.0.

Manifold Gauge Pressure
Short Name: Boost
PID: 221440
Units: PSI
Max/Min: 30.0/0.0 (stock) 40.0/0.0 (performance)
Equation: (((A*256)+B)*0.03625)-[221442]
"-[221442]" subtracts the Barometric sensor (located on the PCM on some trucks, external on others) reading from the MAP reading - and this gives you just the boost pressure above atmospheric pressure.

So... without me having the PID numbers here, the formula would be something along the line of [MPH PID number]/([MFD PID number]*[RPM PID number]/some correction factor). That correction factor will be a big number because at idle, the MFD*RPM will likely be something like 7000.

Let's take 60 MPH, an MFD of 20, at about 1700 RPM and I worked out a correction factor of 11,300: 60/(20*1700/11300) = about 20 MPG at cruise. While some may say 20 MPG ain't gunna happen, I say we get fantastic mileage if we don't adjust speed, climb hills, stop, idle, or what have you. If you fueled up, drove 60 MPH on the flat for seven hours without stopping, then fueled up - a 100% truck could pop the 20 MPG mark. Unfortunately, our bladders would pop before we could really put this to the test.

So... you can experiment with [MPH PID number]/([MFD PID number]*[RPM PID number]/11,300) to start with - and adapt as needed. Caveat: This is instantaneous, not collective. I don't yet know how to take a gauge and make it average over time - but I never looked into it before. I will say if you select the graph gauge (square box with lines and a graph), it will show your values over a 10-second time frame in graph form.

 

Thanks Rich, I'll sit down and digest all that! Just got home with the 5th wheel from our extended Christmas break. The "lie-o-meter" is actually quite accurate, I always reset it when I refuel & always fill to brim & hand calculate & it's always within around 2%, I didn't know if the TP used the same method to calculate as it gets speed & distance from GPS (or so I thought) although I've checked that & my speedo is so close to GPS speed it's unreal. Time to experiment.

 

Let us know what you figure out.

 

I'm at a disadvantage on this topic, because I really ignore theoretical MPG. I have so much other information at my disposal, that I zero in on the base cause of concern when the truck misbehaves. If it takes three PIDs in a formula to work out MPG, I'd be more tempted to keep an eye on the key ingredient not on the dash - MFD. Once I am familiar with that, I don't know my live MPG - but I'll know right-quick if the vehicle is acting up... or if the wind is up... or if the grade is up.

I'm still working on the MFD formula for Stinky - the 100% nozzles and custom tuning mean I have to work out what the range is supposed to be vs. what I'm showing.

 

OK I have a bit of progress, I found in this; Settings menu, OBD2 Adapter Settings, Enhanced MPG calculation & ticked the box. That completely changed the readings, I have now gone from a correction factor (in vehicle profile) of 0.75 to 2.0 & although I haven't really had time to do a long test, just a couple of short trips. I have now got the average reading within a small % of the OH display (which despite many peoples opinions, I have always found to be accurate as long as you reset it each time). Tomorrow I will be filling up the tank & will monitor over the next couple of weeks.