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The Blue Goose's build thread.

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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 06:35 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by '89F2urd
you might be able to get away with that cam with a 408; have to remember, the greater the displacement, the greater the vacuum that is inherently generated. not a guarantee, but that cam isn't really that aggressive (although the LSA at 110* might be the kicker). i'd measure your vacuum currently for a baseline, even though your tired ole 351 probably lacks the vac of a freshy.

that cam wouldn't be horrible for forced induction either, but a forced induction grind is always a good idea to match with boost...the overlap means that you'll blow fuel right out of the combustion chamber and into the exhaust.

with a 408, i'd get something to the tune of 212/220 - 215-/225 with high (.550+) lift and a wide LSA.

AFR's or similar set of heads are a must. 180 AFR's would be my choice for a truck with a matching truck cam, after cleaning up the ports of cnc flash (or casting flash) the runners will likely open up 5cc or so. I wouldn't even shy away from 165 AFR's for a daily driver (brute off idle), but it doesn't sound like that is your goal.
We have long since moved past a daily driver. This shall be a street "legal" weekend toy for certain. 165's and 185's are the same price to my knowledge so opening up to the 185's sounds like a good option for solid street power.

I'll see if my buddy who has the nice diagnostic vacuum gauge will allow me to use it to check for steady vacuum, I may be able to work with it if that is the case. This 351W was freshened up. But there are some items I'd love to correct on it, hence the main debate on pulling it for the Red truck to have as a little upgrade to the current 302 that resides in there now.

I'm thinking a few items I missed, wind-age tray. Newer model year timing cover for ease of parts location on the fly( currently has old style cast water pump and fuel pump passage to camshaft. Excuse to use my Nice Aftermarket EFI intake as well as figure out why it is producing so much blow-by. My biggest issues is getting the engine out to where I can work on it again without tying up my grandfathers barn for more time than needed. Then getting another block to build the 408 into/ a shop to do it all.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2016 | 06:26 AM
  #92  
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Find a roller block if you can, the roller cams available are significantly better than the flat profiles.

Another thing, choose sooner than later whether or not you want forced induction....as it will ultimately dictate two things; compression and rotating assembly strength. If you stay NA, aim for 10.5:1 or a little higher. You don't need anything fancy, or expensive, for a rotating assembly if going down this route.

If boost is in your future, you'll need a forged assembly with low compression.
 
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