From the look of his new engine pic, his block doesn't have the machined dimple for the dipstick hole in order to make it a square drill. Or I'm misunderstanding what you're saying.

 

You are correct on that assumption. Now I was going to go to the Junkyard's later this week to find what I needed in a older truck but one of my dads buddy's who works with allot of guys that build ford racing engines for circle track racing gave me a good idea to be cheap quick and dirt about it. Take a nut and a bolt and weld it on the pan at the full fill level you would need for the truck. he says they do it on allot of their cars because so much crankcase pressure will build up in the pan and the valve covers during a race that it will blow the dipstick clean out.

And honestly at this point if I have to destroy another paycheck to get this darn thing running I'm going to loose my mind, so that's what we are going to do later today. Gonna pull the pan, fill it will oil, check, mark, and drain the good oil back into a container and put the nice "fill plug" in the pan and call this thing done.

 

Google "oil level sight glass". You can find them threaded that are pretty decent in size, and also have a hex head. You could use one in place of your full plug.

Just a thought

 

Now that is an idea that I like even more. I must see if a local hardware store has one though is my only thing. Push comes to shove I could overnight a couple and keep the extras as spares.

 

So we did the bolt and nut trick on the pan. i don't have any pictures yet because photobucket was giving me some crap but I will get it up soon. Now as for the duraspark 2 setup that I have I understand most of the wiring so far. Green goes to negative of the coil, the coil has the ballast resistor as well as key on power and I know the purple black and orange wires go to the dizzy that I get no problem but in the diagrams I keep seeing something Along the lines of an I that would come off the starter relay to the box. Now I see that the white wire goes to the start side for voltage while cranking but in some diagrams the red wire I am unsure as to if it needs a resistor of some type or if it just straight key on power. Someone get what I am trying to say? My main concern is making sure I can just tap into a key on power for all the main wires needed without adding in a resistor or anything of the likes to a circuit

 

Good news and bad news. The good news is that I got the engine in the truck bolted to the trans and will be buttoning up things like the brackets for stuff/fuel line mods/ wiring in the duraspart unit I have. Now the bad news. I can't upload any picture because photobucket is down and I would rather not mess with another site for putting up pictures unless I have to.

HOWEVER! Once I get that ability back everything i have taken so far will be uploaded.

 

You can load them right from your computer/mobile into your post.

 

Of course I find out about this amazing feature now...........meh I never claimed to be smart, i just know enough to be dangerous with a keyboard and a wrench.

Allot of my pictures were junk, turns out auto-focus works allot better if you give it 5 seconds to focus.

But for reference to anyone else using a 351W and M5OD I went to Advance Auto and got a flywheel (28oz) For a 1990 F-150, and for the clutch I am using a stock F150 clutch for the 351W, being that most of them were behind the zf-5's they seem to have a much thicker clutch material on it, allot better of a bite by the looks of it and would fit on a 5.0 if you needed a cheap upgrade without going out to summit racing.

Now I will say one thing, getting this thing lined back up, was a PITA job. i fought with it for two hours trying to get it slipped up enough for the bolts to fit on one side but could not get both sides threaded in, so what i did was I told a slightly longer bolt with about a 1/4 of washers (was all I could find with Auto-zone closed and what I had on hand) and worked it up side to side like that until the bell-housing was up against the block. Then I removed my alignment bolts that I made up to keep the bolt holes lined up on the top of the trans (Three inch long bell-housing bolt with the head of the bolt cut off) and tighten it all up with the proper bolts.

Now the pan plug is about where 5.0 quarts of oil would level out give or take a few, its mainly a reference plug should I be out on the road and I feel as if its losing oil or I need a top off and want to be sure i didn't overfill it. Me and dipsticks never really got along for some reason.

I did make one change to my plan, instead of fighting the duraspark setup and all its wiring I'm going to instead use an all in one coil and dizzy two wire setup and just call it done. I don't need an extra item to fight me when i still gotta plumb up the fuel system and honestly, I'm just to lazy to do all that mess of work when I'm just gotta thrash on this thing once it's all broken in and we know we have nothing to worry about engine wise for some time.

Will get some better pictures after work of what I got going on in the engine bay right now.

Also since I got some folks around watching this thread, what would be a good wire to tap into that's key on power, but will stay on while cranking? I'll need that for the Two wire Dizzy.

Thank you all once more

Shadow

P.S. we ain't even close to done..........

 

You want to use the old coil wire to trigger a relay, and use that relay to bring power from the battery+ terminal of the fender mounted starter relay to your HEI.
Use heavy primary wire (at least 12Ga., probably #10 is better) for the 30 & 87 terminals.

This is in the instructions of every one of these distributors I've ever seen.

 

Your probably going to regret that nut and bolt in the oil pan for checking oil. I can see doing that in a race car, that gets gone over after every race. But for a street vehicle, that's going to be a pain, and you are going to get lazy about checking it. I just hope that doesn't cost you a motor, especially after all this money and work. What happened to the simple sight glass?

 

i want to address the fuel system here. trust me when i say that you want to replace the high pressure EFI pump(s), with low pressure carb pump(s). i did the EFI to carb conversion on my old 83 grand marquis, and even though i used a fuel pressure regulator to supposedly drop the pressure from the stock 35psi down to a carb friendly 4.5psi, the fuel pump pressure just blew past the regulator and flooded the engine with fuel.

 

The relay idea is a very good one. I'll make note of that and do it up that way in order to promote a safe yet effective wiring connection. I to believe in going bigger for my wires just for safety, you never know when something odd is going to happen.

In regards to the nut and pan setup she will sadly not be a daily driver. At best, until I build up funds or get another project started and have to daily it, will only end up being a weekend toy. I did not do the sight glass because funds are tight and I'm tired of buying all this stuff that is junk and won't work for some weird little reason or it will work and cost me another paycheck and then some to order everything. That and I got impatience because i thought it was gonna get put together sooner than later. My plans never go as I like.

As for the fuel system, that is something to note. Did you use a return style setup? Or did you end up just running the main feed line when you tried the EFI pumps? I'm curious so I know if I should bite the bullet and buy the right pump now and spare the issues of a over-pressure situation before I can even crank it over.

 

i use the return line because i thought it would prevent the pump from blowing fuel past the regulator, unfortunately it didnt. so my advice is to go ahead and buy the right pump now, the stock EFI pump literally destroyed two regulators( i gave the set up a chance because i thought the first regulator i used was either bad or just old since it had been sitting around my tool box for about five years, and i had forgotten it so i had bought a new one and then found the old one).

 

So Progress has been made. In the past few evenings and today I have got the headers bolted up with no issues other than a exhaust that had to get cut due to both a faulty hanger by the morons with rigged my exhaust at a shop prior to me touching it and the fact that it was hitting the cross-member where it ran under the trans. Otherwise Flow-techs fit up as they normally do. Poorly but well enough for a cheapo like me.

Now I will throw in some info just for others who may do this same swap. I used a carb throttle cable for my setup off of an 84 F-250, this is what I got allot of my stock carb items, for the most part this all will interchange with a brick-nose give or take a few items since the Bullnose shared allot of stuff under-hood. The bracket I used for this was just an auto-zone adjustable linkage with a kick-down piece if you used an AOD, I am not so I took it off and played with everything until it fit up to the holly for my liking. I noticed there was a notch on the holly that the stock cable could fit on so that worked good and from what I can tell the bracket lined up really well and seems to be a clean looking setup. The bolts that hold the throttle cable to the cab are 8MM and it was allot easier than it looked to swap it out, i thought it was gonna be a PITA to do it.

The belt I used was a 91 inch belt to bypass the smog pump and keep the A/C and PS on this truck Although if I even went straight up drag only I would loose both in a heartbeat.

The damage to the alternator bracket was my own screw up I had a power-steering bolt in the hole (thread pitch and bolt size are the same shockingly) and ran it up didn't realize that something was off until "SNAP", so dad ,managed to tig it up and make it work again, it was either that or I went and got one from the junkyard for cheap.

I also ran all of my main battery wiring like my ground back to where it needed to go and did crank over the engine just a bit to see if the starter would mesh up okay with the 351W flywheel and to make sure it worked still since it got covered in a snow drift on the ground without me knowing until it was to late to do anything. Worked just fine only needed to recharge the battery and maybe even see about a better ground cable for the battery since well I forgot how crusty it looked 0___0.

Radiator is still out but I did connect up my heater hose connections with some 1/2 copper pipe. I got a few more pictures of a before deburr and after but basically what I did is chopped up four pieces of copper pipe, and used the burtex well to clean them up and used hose clamps to put it together. My reason for creating thing connection was because i needed a hair more hose on both ends to reach everything and I did not want to run new hose to my heater core or break off an end if I could help it. So that is what I did. And I only needed to use two of the pipes, the other two are in my toolbox for another vehicle or if I need them again for something else.

No fuel lines pumped yet, that is tomorrow nights projects.

The two wires with a little red sharpie on the black connector from what I gathered from just looking at the wires for the old coil and its wiring loam they are what i need for my Tach source and a key on power for the relay that will control power to my new dizzy that came in.

That new dizzy is also not in. The engine is not at TDC for cylinder number one (ended up that way when I put the flywheel on) so that is something else for either tomorrow night or Saturday when I get back on it for sure.

The list is getting smaller and I soon see this truck once again rolling under its own power. Sadly before I can take it farther that up the street I gotta get it inspected again. GRRRRRR I hate yearly inspections. But I do understand that they are needed for people who won't maintain their own cars.

Also one other thing to note the picture of the starter is there for a reason. I did not use starter bolts. i couldn't find them, but header bolts are the same thread and size and hold that thing in there perfectly. so remember that if the starter falls out in the middle of nowhere.

 

Extra post for pictures. Computers hate me XD