Building Mildred
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Sunny Florida
Sumter county Florida. Had a ton of stuff I wanted to buy' but resisted. Lol
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,323
Likes: 3
From: Sunny Florida
Well...
My lil 302 went to the machine shop already bored .040. In order to get the gouges out of the cylinder walls he took it to .060 over.
.
The good news is the JY GT40 heads were like brand new, and with a clean shave, fresh valve job and a thorough cleaning, they pretty much are new. The crank is done, pistons are ordered and bearing and ring set are on the way as well. Decided to let him build the motor for me so I will get back a fresh 310 cu.in. SBF long block probably next week.
Before anyone says anything about the .060 overbore, I know. It's my fault for not measuring the block before I sent it, ya live and learn. I'm gonna keep my eyes open for a low mile roller block I can build myself as a standby.
Sadly this motor has decimated my paint and body budget, so the clean restomod I planned to have finished by November may have to sport a flat black paint job till next spring. Fingers crossed that it doesn't come to that.
Pic updates this weekend as the frame is basically ready for POR15 and if the weather stays nice, it will be coated.
My lil 302 went to the machine shop already bored .040. In order to get the gouges out of the cylinder walls he took it to .060 over.
. The good news is the JY GT40 heads were like brand new, and with a clean shave, fresh valve job and a thorough cleaning, they pretty much are new. The crank is done, pistons are ordered and bearing and ring set are on the way as well. Decided to let him build the motor for me so I will get back a fresh 310 cu.in. SBF long block probably next week.
Before anyone says anything about the .060 overbore, I know. It's my fault for not measuring the block before I sent it, ya live and learn. I'm gonna keep my eyes open for a low mile roller block I can build myself as a standby.
Sadly this motor has decimated my paint and body budget, so the clean restomod I planned to have finished by November may have to sport a flat black paint job till next spring. Fingers crossed that it doesn't come to that.
Pic updates this weekend as the frame is basically ready for POR15 and if the weather stays nice, it will be coated.
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Sunny Florida
Ordered a Comp Cams Extreme Energy camshaft for my mill today. Pretty much everything is coming together.
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...Category_Code=
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...Category_Code=
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Sunny Florida
Well Sunday I got the core support cleaned and painted. Decided to have the machine shop assemble the motor for me, and they recommended I replace the valve springs too since I have a new cam. So that should be in Thursday.
If I get home before dark I will post a pic of the support.
If I get home before dark I will post a pic of the support.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Billings, MT
I know sound like a broken record, but if you are going with a flat tappet camshaft oil choice and break-in are crucial. Your concave lifter and flattened lobes are all too common with low zinc levels in modern oil.
I coat the cam and lifters with the sticky moly lube comp provides, properly prelude the engine, proper break-in not letting it idle for the first 30 minutes and also add a bottle of comp's break-in lube to the oil. I run Valvoline VR-1 racing oil in 10w-30, which has a proper level of ZDDP.
I change the oil after cam break in and a quick test drive to seat the rings. I also change the oil at 50 and 500 miles, adding about 1/3 of comp's break in additive
I coat the cam and lifters with the sticky moly lube comp provides, properly prelude the engine, proper break-in not letting it idle for the first 30 minutes and also add a bottle of comp's break-in lube to the oil. I run Valvoline VR-1 racing oil in 10w-30, which has a proper level of ZDDP.
I change the oil after cam break in and a quick test drive to seat the rings. I also change the oil at 50 and 500 miles, adding about 1/3 of comp's break in additive
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Sunny Florida
I know sound like a broken record, but if you are going with a flat tappet camshaft oil choice and break-in are crucial. Your concave lifter and flattened lobes are all too common with low zinc levels in modern oil.
I coat the cam and lifters with the sticky moly lube comp provides, properly prelude the engine, proper break-in not letting it idle for the first 30 minutes and also add a bottle of comp's break-in lube to the oil. I run Valvoline VR-1 racing oil in 10w-30, which has a proper level of ZDDP.
I change the oil after cam break in and a quick test drive to seat the rings. I also change the oil at 50 and 500 miles, adding about 1/3 of comp's break in additive
I coat the cam and lifters with the sticky moly lube comp provides, properly prelude the engine, proper break-in not letting it idle for the first 30 minutes and also add a bottle of comp's break-in lube to the oil. I run Valvoline VR-1 racing oil in 10w-30, which has a proper level of ZDDP.
I change the oil after cam break in and a quick test drive to seat the rings. I also change the oil at 50 and 500 miles, adding about 1/3 of comp's break in additive
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Sunny Florida
Well....
Still waiting on my cam kit to arrive. Pretty pissed that it's not here yet.
In the mean time, got the fender aprons painted and undercoated, will post pics when I don't work until dark. Also locked down a paint and body guy.
Still waiting on my cam kit to arrive. Pretty pissed that it's not here yet.
In the mean time, got the fender aprons painted and undercoated, will post pics when I don't work until dark. Also locked down a paint and body guy.
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Sunny Florida
Core support and inner fenderwells, painted, undercoated and cleared.
The frame has proven to be way more work then I originally thought, so its time to back up and punt. instead of wire wheels on drills, going to pick up some sanding wheels for the grinder tomorrow.
Cam kit is STILL not in. Hoping it will be in hand by Monday so I can get it to the builder.
The frame has proven to be way more work then I originally thought, so its time to back up and punt. instead of wire wheels on drills, going to pick up some sanding wheels for the grinder tomorrow.
Cam kit is STILL not in. Hoping it will be in hand by Monday so I can get it to the builder.
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Posting Guru
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From: Sunny Florida
Going to a show today that is hosted by NPD. May be able to score some stuff if they have a swap meet area... we shall see.
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Sunny Florida
Was in Gainesville Florida at the Santa Fe Community College campus. Wasn't very many cars and there was not a swap meet area. I did get a new NPD catalog though.