ok guys and gals, long time reader first time typer. I am really stressed. I have done all the great engine mods to my 1997 F-350 7.5 (speed density system) , wrapped intake, eliminated snorkels, chip, k&n filter, 3" flomaster exhaust, cat converter test pipe, 180* thermostat, it all did help but what I found by watching o2 sensor patterns is that it has shifted to a lean fuel mixture. To correct this I have installed a 10 k resistor in the air charge temp sensor it realy liked that. But it could use a little more fuel. Which brings me to the big question is anybody using or found an adjustable fuel pressure regulator for this engine, (note this is a 2 bolt regulator) Now for the STRESS part ; ford tells me that 1994 to 1997 4.6, 5.0 , 7.5 all use the same regulator. Jet, mallory, crane all make this regulator in a adjustable unit but they do not list it for a 7.5 . After a phone call to jet they confirm it will not work (could not give me a reason why) looking for info or sugestions....(p.s I spend more time under hoods than a key board so please be gentle tiping skills)

 

I used the Crane adjustable regulator on my 1989 460 but the factory regulator in those years are 3-bolt...just like the small block Fords. Have no idea when the big-blocks changed to a 2-bolt regulator design.

Deen

 

My 93 is a standard 3 bolt. 93-97 460's should be the same

 

Here is the up date on this pressure regulator problem, I looked up deen's and rossman's aplication same deal no listing for 7.5 only 5.0 L in the stanard 3 bolt. but it does work in the 7.5. The 2 bolt regulators started in 1994 one of my suppliers had the bbk pn#1707 (1994 - 1998 4.6/5.0) in stock and said that if it did not work fo me I could return it. (unlike jet I bought it I own it) so my next project for the day is to see if it fits and function properly. P.S what kind of fuel pressure is everyone running at and what modifications have bee done?. **thankyou for the input**

 

Hi guys, here is the low down on the fuel pressure regulator, I installed the bbk pressure regulator (very nice unit by the way) it did fit and it did work and no leaks!. Set the fuel pressure to 45 psi engine running /no vacuum to regulator, figure it is a good place to start. Have not road tested it yet but if problems do come up I will let you guys know. If anybody neds more info let me know.. Another little bit of info if anybody cares I did phone ford motor sport back east asking about the fuel pressure regulator, (motor sport could not supply) the other question I asked is what other mods can be done. he informed me that as debated on this site, timing gears are timed 8 deg late and that insalling a straight up set would be a great improvment and would not change emission (Probably my next project , but I think i will do a little more research) I guess thats it for now thanks ..... Domenico

 

All EFI motors have straight up timing. I just replaced my timing set. There was alot of play in the old chain. I would replace it if you have over 125,000 miles. Its a full days job and you should replace the waterpump while you are in there. I would have but couldnt find a pump anywhere in town. Some reason a new pump was 5 bucks cheaper than a reman.

 

Thats what iv'e been reading on different posts, but this guy from ford motor sport tells me it's not?. did you compare your timing set to a pre 72 set up?. my plan was to order a pre 72 set and a efi set to the shop and compare the two. My trucks only got 50,000 miles and its not due but if there is ponies to be gained i'm in. ( rossman have you got any problems with grinding gears at high rpm shifts 35-4500 rpm?)

 

I checked my set with a protractor, the dowel pin in the cam shaft lined straigh up with the key in the crankshaft, If you have any doubts a guy could just buy a degreed timing set, they are about the same price. I recently had my ZF rebuilt. It has been shifting good, no grinding. Try changing your fluid. The shop that rebuilt my tranny said change the fluid every 12,000 miles because ATF is light and wears out in a manual faster. It only takes 4 qts. Walmart has gallon jugs for $4.50, so I change mine every other oil change.

 

Hi crossman iv'e been changing the fluid every year (3000 miles). I tried synthetic (that was bad news don't wast your money) Replaced it again with fresh mercon it helped, this year I thought I would try the moly slip additive (phoned them direct to make sure it works in the zf transmission they said for sure **not** Drained it again back to straight mercon. It seems to be the quick shifts at high rpm that grinds, I am sure it's a syncro problem just wondering if it's hereditary with these transmissions......

 

Domenico, tell what happened with the 45psi did it like it!!!!!!
I am looking at the Crane adjustable regulator for my 94 7.5L.

 

Hi rusvd, around town it does seem to help. The real test will be the next camping trip, It's like my personal dyno, I load the 8.5' camper on the truck, hook up my 5"x 10 trailer (8,000 lbs axle, electric brakes, 33" continental tires and matching hub caps) load the dirt bikes all the gear for 5 of us, (weight is very close every trip, distance exact, I leave at the same time every trip, and fuel is filled at the same station the night before (pretty **** eh? I dont know how my wife and 3 kids put up with me!) but what I am getting to is that it is a 1780 meter climb in 2 hrs (coquhalla hwy in central b.c). I moniter fuel consumption, o2 sesnor voltage and engine power (specific hills, rpm, gear used, and speed,) anyway I dont know when the next trip will be, But hopfully soon. What mods have you done and to what success?. (p.s I could not find my crane catalog but check out bbk, they got an access port for a on board fuel pressure guage .......regards domenico..

 

Domenico,
Go to www.performanceunlimited.com/progectmpg/
this might help. I,m just getting started on my truck, tring to get the best price on some Thorley headers that are California legal (expensive) right now plan on ordering them after labor day. I only have the K&N filter, i cut off the end of it that sticks out past the radiator core support and moved the left guide closer to the lt head lamp. This allows more air to the inlet. I was looking at the two hoses that go from the air filter to some reducer / ? before it makes it into the t-body. The reducer is shaped like a horn and reduces the size of the air tube close to 50% ? checking into that, thinking about cutting it off ( reducers only ) unless anbody can tell otherwise!!!

 

howdy rusvd, that was last winter's project. I cut off the 2 snorkles and wrapped the whole intake hose with insulation wrap, (As far as I found out they are noise supressors, between the tires and exhaust I cant hear a darn thing but it keeps that big grin on my face) It did inprove performance. headers are on the list after 4 rancho rx9000, the listing for headers on 97 7.5 5spd arn't that clear hooker and bbk makes them for auto trans but not 5spd (what gives the 5 spd should have more room for headers?) Banks are just to much money, we get hammered with the exchange rate. L&L make some, tried to find sombody who has them in a 97 but no luck. Performance parts shop tells me that if I order them I own them, expenive conversation peice for my shop if they don't fit"! I would post some pictures but I'm not very good with computer stuff and my baby sitter oops! sorry about that I meant wife is not home to assist me, let me know how you make out with the headers. p.s I'm trying to picture what you did with you intake snorkle but don't under stand? please explain regards Domenico....

 

Look at the very begining (opening) of the air intake. It starts out next to the left headlamp, it is the piece of plastic tube (noise supressor) that comes from the bottom of the air filter box and goes forward to the grille right next to the radiator. The end of it it curved as if to deflect stuff from getting into it. Cut it off flush to the sheet metal. Also the air comes from under the bumper and UP to get to the intake system. If you look through your grille (drivers side) you will see a rubber air guide to direct air through the radiator it is held on by plastic push in pins. i moved it over closer to the left head lamp so that the air that comes into the grille will also supply air for intake track.
I have a 3 inch body lift and 33 inch tires on my truck, that i want to take off, i'm trying to find stock body bushings and bolts i will will trade my stuff for stock!!!

 

Trust me on this.......I had my '90 F250 apart twice. Once to change the retarded timing gears and install straight up gears. They already were straight up......And I tried a SLIGHTY hotter cam, and the factory spec timing gears they supplied along with it were again, straight up. Take yours apart if you need the practice, but you will undoubtly find your gears are also "straight up". BTW....the cam didn't work. The factory cam performs much better for towing applications, and has been re-installed.
One more thing........I've got the Doug Thorley tri-y headers, I think they are great. Coupled with an aftermarket 3" cat, then a 3" Flowmaster, and a single 3" mandrel bent pipe out the back. Also, I've got the Banks "Ram Air" air box lid and filter, hoses wrapped with aluminum tape, horns eliminated, and the intake snorkel modified in the grill. Works VERY good.
I have been contemplating the adjustable fuel regulator. I think the stock setting is around 37 PSI. I thought I would start at 40 PSI. Let us know how yours does!