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OH NO! I am in the preview window and a whole page of what I wrote has completely disappeared along with the copy of the page from the manual!
If you use Firefox, install the Textarea Cache extension. It saves your text as you type it on /all/ websites, and if you do something to make it disappear, you can just click on the little clipboard button it makes and copy-paste the text back into your(now blank) message box.
It's super-simple, works automatically, and has saved my butt more times than I can count.
It looks like Chrome has such an extension also.
I think I was chasing up the wrong tree with the controller and glow plugs. I am insanely tired but I promised that I would post what the manual says about the controller so I will.
I had to edit my previous post to replace one sentence with this: AS LONG AS THE ENGINE IS COLD AND HASN'T BEEN STARTED.
OH NO! I am in the preview window and a whole page of what I wrote has completely disappeared along with the copy of the page from the manual!
I've been up for 29-1/2 hours without sleep actually 30 hrs 15 min. - insanely tired, typing on autopilot - so I can't re-write that.
I did acknowledge that what I had written about the WTS light timing was probably NOT correct even though mine has worked like that for a year after new glow plugs but I've also had something very unusual going on during that time which I just fixed and have not checked the glow plug controller /WTS light to see if it still works that way. My truck almost always starts on the first engine revolution so I have not restarted it right after shutting it down since a couple of months ago. I'll have to check it later.
That being said, I did read that it is supposed to work like I stated and I seem to recall that it was in a Shop Manual and I probably have it here.
Whatever- here is what the 87 manual says and I have to accept that in the absence of any evidence to post showing otherwise. 1987 is the first model year that this solid state 7.3L style controller was used. (eighth generation trucks 87-91) It's the same controller and glow plugs and GP circuits as your 1988. However, the text description of how the controller works might be mixed in with some text from the earlier 80-86 gp controllers - 87 was a design transition year and the manual was being written before the truck went into production so it's probably a revised 86 manual, and so it goes for design change years... The information in places might not be completely accurate.
I wish I would not have lost all of that writing!! It is probably for the better because of my condition while writing this.
pat420swed, I'm sorry that I implied that you made mistakes with your truck I was just trying to put all of these thoughts into the simplest sentence or two.
It should be starting a LOT better than what you have described so the first thing would be to repair that fuel/air leak and it should start quicker.
My truck almost always starts on the first engine revolution but the last time I drove it (about a week ago) the day time temperatures were in the +6.7 deg. C range (+44 *F) not -9 *C (+15*F)
I can't think anymore... cant proofread (but I try) I'll check back later
Haha no need to apologize.
Im gonna fix my fuel lines today and test my glow plugs. Maybe ill take a cold start video to show u guys how its starting
Im gonna fix my fuel lines today and test my glow plugs. Maybe ill take a cold start video to show u guys how its starting
I tested all the gps with the test light, it lit up on every one.
I ran new fuel lines and i started it up, heres the cold start video not plugged in about -2 Celsius outside. Took a bit of cranking, but it was firing right away just not catching. It hadnt been started for about a week and a half since ive been on holidays.
And heres what i think might be a injector or lifter tick? engine was still cold but had been running for 4 mins or so, sounds like its coming from aroubd the front of the engine.
I'm thinking glow plugs/controller at this point. Put a test light on the power wire going to the glow plugs and see how long it stays lit when you turn the key(i.e. how many seconds you are actually getting power.
I'm thinking glow plugs/controller at this point. Put a test light on the power wire going to the glow plugs and see how long it stays lit when you turn the key(i.e. how many seconds you are actually getting power.
Ok ill do that, i just read in another thread when testing the gps with the test light im supposed to remove the plug on the top of the gp to test it, does the wite absolutely have to come off? Or not. I didnt take the wites off, i just put the light to the base of the gp
Uh... Yeah. You just tested that the base of the GP is connected to ground. Which it would be, no matter what.
You need to test that the GP works. Which means connecting your test light between Battery + and the top terminal on the GP.
Personally, I just use a piece of wire when testing them -- one end to Battery +, and then just touch the other end to the terminal on the top of the GP. If it sparks, it's good. If nothing, it's bad.
You have to remove the connectors because otherwise, even if you manage to hook to the top terminal, the power will go through all the other glow plugs even if that one is bad.
Uh... Yeah. You just tested that the base of the GP is connected to ground. Which it would be, no matter what.
You need to test that the GP works. Which means connecting your test light between Battery + and the top terminal on the GP.
Personally, I just use a piece of wire when testing them -- one end to Battery +, and then just touch the other end to the terminal on the top of the GP. If it sparks, it's good. If nothing, it's bad.
You have to remove the connectors because otherwise, even if you manage to hook to the top terminal, the power will go through all the other glow plugs even if that one is bad.
Lol ya i just thought of that.... I went back out and tested em properly and looks like there all good.
I also tested the controller for the amount of time and according to this chart i found online it looks like its working properly, the wts light was on for 11 seconds and the test light lit up for 25 seconds.
Lol ya i just thought of that.... I went back out and tested em properly and looks like there all good.
I also tested the controller for the amount of time and according to this chart i found online it looks like its working properly, the wts light was on for 11 seconds and the test light lit up for 25 seconds.
Actually ill post all the pics of all the tests ive done so far
If you use Firefox, install the Textarea Cache extension. It saves your text as you type it on /all/ websites, and if you do something to make it disappear, you can just click on the little clipboard button it makes and copy-paste the text back into your(now blank) message box.
It's super-simple, works automatically, and has saved my butt more times than I can count.
It looks like Chrome has such an extension also.
Thanks a ton for that information! I have Firefox and Chromium (open source Chrome) on a linux system but I use very few extensions due to being privacy/security oriented. One of these browsers performed that 'saving to clipboard' function for me before without any extensions but not now. I will add those two extensions because I hate it when I lose everything like that in a java script window.
I know what caused that to happen in this case- my computer was acting up just before that happened and it's related to a graphics processor chip but too far off topic to explain.
I'm thinking glow plugs/controller at this point. Put a test light on the power wire going to the glow plugs and see how long it stays lit when you turn the key(i.e. how many seconds you are actually getting power.
Is there any chance this issue im having could be caused by a worn ip or injectors? Is there any way to test my ip while in the truck for wear? I have no idea how many km r on the pump or injectors. The injectors have grey paint on them where there is still paint left..... I heard that means there the stock ones from the factory? Could it be possible that the trucks got the original ip and injectors with 290k on the truck?
it could, but that is a lot of miles for a pump and injectors.
290KM converts to 180,000 miles.
the best i ever got out of pump was 175k miles.
i change injectors when i change pump. but there are some people that will change the pump and leave the worn out injectors in the engine.
it could, but that is a lot of miles for a pump and injectors.
290KM converts to 180,000 miles.
the best i ever got out of pump was 175k miles.
i change injectors when i change pump. but there are some people that will change the pump and leave the worn out injectors in the engine.
Yes well thats the thing, ive got a full set of injectors that i got last year ready to go in but i was thinking im gonna wait till the spring and save some casg and get a pump from justin, would installing new injectors with a unknown milage pump be a bad idea?
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