Front manual locking hubs issues

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Dec 30, 2015 | 07:17 PM

JRS2

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From: Detroit suburb

Front manual locking hubs issues

I was working on 2 trucks today, one brand that Jesus owned (according to the bible) and my F150. The first one looks likely that the engine will be pulled. The F150 the subject for these questions. Good thing I jacked this up, was checking for possible front U joint problems but instead found that I had significant play in a wheel bearing, maybe a 1/4 inch, now that might account for my 70 mph roughness or feeling of out of balance issue. I also found that during this process that my manual lockout hub was not releasing, so that shaft is always engaged. Does anyone have a diagram of the manual hub assembly ? I did take this apart and reassemble without this diagram, so I am familiar with the 4 tab socket, however will apparently doing this again ..... wonder if there is anything to stop that nut from loosening ?

Any tips appreciated .....

Dec 30, 2015 | 08:08 PM

Nothing Special

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From: Roseville, MN

I don't have a diagram, but there are two spindle nuts with a locking washer between them. The first nut has a pin sticking out of one side. you install it with the pin away from the bearing. After it's torqued correctly you install the locking washer. It has a tab that goes into the keyway on the spindle, and holes in it, thie pin in the first nut goes into one of the holes. So the washer prevents the first nut from turning. Then the second nut goes on and prevents the washer from coming off.

Dec 30, 2015 | 09:45 PM

JRS2

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From: Detroit suburb

Ok, thanks. I did find a U tube video that showed that as well. It was helpful and if I get it could post a link for other folks. This particular video was for changing the automatic to manual lockout hubs.

Dec 31, 2015 | 08:28 AM

subford

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From: Easton,Ks

Dec 31, 2015 | 08:51 AM

JRS2

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From: Detroit suburb

Subford:

Thanks much for that detail. From the videos it seems that the torque on the inner nut is approx 50 lbs, back off the nut, spin tire and wheel assembly until proper amt of resistance, play determined, add spacer and 2nd lock washer to 160 to 180#. Hopefully today, if I can get that wrench will find out what is going on.

Cheers

Dec 31, 2015 | 09:05 AM

subford

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From: Easton,Ks

Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment -- LD Manual Hubs

Bronco and F-150 with Dana 44-IFS/HD Front Driving Axle with Manual Locking Hubs

1. Raise the vehicle and install safety stands.
2. Remove the hub lock assembly. Refer to «Manual Locking Hub» Removal and Installation procedures in this section.
3. Using a torque wrench and Spanner Locknut Wrench T86T-1197-A or equivalent apply inward pressure to unlock the adjusting nut locking splines, and turn the nut clockwise to tighten to 95 N-m (70 ft-lb) while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearing.
4. Apply inward pressure on the Spanner Locknut Wrench T86T-1197-A or equivalent to disengage the adjusting nut locking splines and back off the adjusting nut approximately 90 degrees.
5. Retighten the adjusting nut to 20-27 N-m (15-20 ft-lb). Remove the tool and torque wrench.
6. Check that the final end play of the hub and rotor on the spindle is 0.00 mm (0.00 inch).
7. Torque required to rotate the hub and rotor assembly is not to exceed 2.3 N-m (20 in-lb).
8. Install the hub lock assembly as described in this section.
9. Remove the safety stands. Lower the vehicle.

Dec 31, 2015 | 10:31 PM

JRS2

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From: Detroit suburb

It is all coming back to me now. I believe I did have a similar diagram this spring or summer when I worked on this previously. Not sure if I have aftermarket hubs or not, but mine do not appear like the diagram, at least not the two locknuts and washer between them. Mine has like a cup and or like a quarter inch deep mechanism with a washer and springs inside then a lock washer that works with the 4 lug socket. That socket matches the outer and partially the cup and washers behind it to in effect tighten or loosen the assembly. After watching the video's noted that my assembly does not have any cotter pin assembly to hold it together and prevent loosening, so I made one out of a cotter pin.

Sure is nice at least at the moment to not have that free play in the wheel, quieter, more stable and not fighting to keep the front end from wandering ....

Time will tell if my home made fix worked .....

However I still have the issue with the unlock function not working on this side. Maybe next time at the bone yard will have to take the innards from another 44 or move on to the other side and see how that is assembed, but then again, I am not having any issues with that one ....