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so i took apart the generator on my 1964 f100 and knicked the insulation around the magnet? on the inside... not sure if you can see my pic, but can i still be used fine? or should i replace the insulation? If so, where could i get new insulation?
Jake, it shouldn't be an issue since nothing touches the field windings in use. If you want to protect the copper from oxidation, you can paint the exposed wire with something but due to the fine dust, it probably won't stick. Happy New Year...
Jake, it shouldn't be an issue since nothing touches the field windings in use. If you want to protect the copper from oxidation, you can paint the exposed wire with something but due to the fine dust, it probably won't stick. Happy New Year...
Thank you for the help! will clean and put back together then. Happy New Year
Let's define our terms so everyone is on the same page. That's the pulley, and with the nut removed from the armature it will come off, but soak it well first with Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, or your favorite. Maybe a little heat. Remove evenly, carefully. Don't bend it. They are not readily available that I've found.
The armature is available new for not too much money. The rebuild kits including armature are maybe $40, w/ brushes and bearings too. Recommend to always use a new (NOS) voltage regulator from the 60s to pair with your rebuilt generator. They are much heavier than modern manufacture crapola. The new ones work, but not very well.
You could try spraying a clear coat over the windings just to be safe. Make sure all the electrical connections, cables and brackets, engine block ground pads are clean shiny bright and tight. No excess resistance. Also be sure to polarize the generator itself upon reinstallation (engine OFF) using ONLY the Ford (type B) procedure. The GM method may smoke the windings in the regulator.
Ford procedure: Remove the FLD and BATT terminals at the regulator, touch them together briefly. May see a spark, this is fine. That's it. Done.
Check charging voltages with all lights, heater blower and accessories on engine @ 2500 RPM. Generator charging voltages run a little higher than alternator voltages. It will sag under load but still need to see 14.x volts. Generators cutout at idle therefore engine and accessories run solely on battery. Use a good quality (large) battery with a high reserve capacity.
Howdy Jake!
Thank you very much for the help, I've got the rebuild kit with me and just got the pulley off, decided to use an Autozone claw puller from their loan a tool program. However, I went to remove the front plate from the armature and instead the armature and bearing separating from the plate, the plate cracked!
Let's define our terms so everyone is on the same page. That's the pulley, and with the nut removed from the armature it will come off, but soak it well first with Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, or your favorite. Maybe a little heat. Remove evenly, carefully. Don't bend it. They are not readily available that I've found.
The armature is available new for not too much money. The rebuild kits including armature are maybe $40, w/ brushes and bearings too. Recommend to always use a new (NOS) voltage regulator from the 60s to pair with your rebuilt generator. They are much heavier than modern manufacture crapola. The new ones work, but not very well.
You could try spraying a clear coat over the windings just to be safe. Make sure all the electrical connections, cables and brackets, engine block ground pads are clean shiny bright and tight. No excess resistance. Also be sure to polarize the generator itself upon reinstallation (engine OFF) using ONLY the Ford (type B) procedure. The GM method may smoke the windings in the regulator.
Ford procedure: Remove the FLD and BATT terminals at the regulator, touch them together briefly. May see a spark, this is fine. That's it. Done.
Check charging voltages with all lights, heater blower and accessories on engine @ 2500 RPM. Generator charging voltages run a little higher than alternator voltages. It will sag under load but still need to see 14.x volts. Generators cutout at idle therefore engine and accessories run solely on battery. Use a good quality (large) battery with a high reserve capacity.
Does anyone sell these online? I don't know a single person in my area who even runs a generator so finding a replacement plate is gonna be a nightmare.
Does anyone sell these online? I don't know a single person in my area who even runs a generator so finding a replacement plate is gonna be a nightmare.
I think I've seen them available online, but I couldn't remember where exactly. Maybe NOS parts unlimited.com? Try to hunt down a good part #, that will help a lot in the online search. Tractors used the same generator too, I bet.
You might have to pick up a junker generator off eBay or junkyard and cannibalize it for parts. Or, purchase a rebuilt generator and designate your current generator as the new "parts" gen.
Think I paid $100 or so last year for a replacement, rebuilt by a shop out of Texas with a repair date code of 1999. New bearings and brushes, turned commutator etc, it works super.
Generators got somewhat of a bad rep because over the years people kept swapping them over and over from engine to engine and they never get serviced or rebuilt.
OK, found one I think. Are you sitting down, the price... It costs almost eight bucks! ... called "front end plate" these guys have them for sale. Part B6A-101369-B
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