When I first start my excursion in the morning, it starts fine, idles fine. If I dont let it sit for about 5mins plus i have this issue. I will start off and it has no power at all. I can barely get up to 20mph. It doesnt seem to want to change gears, i dont hear the turbo spool up. Then all of a sudden it will go to next gear, turbo spools up and it has power again. It is like I said a 6.0 power stroke, its a 2004 excursion with 214k miles.

 

Symptoms could be related to a bad, sticking injector. If an injector has gone bad it will throw a code, but sometimes you need a little detective work to find which injector(s) are sticking. Easiest to take to a dealer for diagnosis.

 

Don't know, but does a 6.0 have an ebpv valve like a 7.3.

 

Moved to the 6.0 PSD forum.

Stewart

 

I was thinking the same exact thing....... and I'm not sure either. But it would be in the same location if it does. Drivers side front at valve cover height will be a SS tubing coming off of the exhaust manifold with a pressure sensor.
The tubing plugs up with soot over time and the turbo needs that info for the VGT.
So......... If you see this arrangement on your truck pull the tubing and run a coat hanger through it and blow it out with compressed air. Then reinstall

Now that of coarse if the early 6.0 also has it, I know my 2006 does for sure.

I would also be looking at FICM voltage and has the oil been maintained. Can go into limp mode if oil is in horrible condition won't clear up until viscosity thins enough to move through the engine fast enuf. .........

This may all be worthless too. lol

 

I have a bit of experience with this topic. My 03' was like this when I got it and started doing it again this year.

A few folks have hit on points that I am going to.

The cold issues are usually related to stiction. But then again a funky charging system and flaky FICM will act like stiction also. What are you using to monitor the health of your 6.0L? A Scan Gauge 2 is a wonderful thing when you have issues like this.

So let's go down the list.

1) are there any codes?

2) what is the build date? Early 04'? Where is the ICP? On the HPOP or Valve cover? If it is early 04' the EBP is an inferred value and is not an actual #. Check the output values according to tech folder/service manual, clean the tube out and see if that helps.

3) Check the charging system! Pull the alternator and batteries and get them tested. Check the plug for the voltage regulator and replace if the wires are shrunk and twisted. Charging system issues will eventually take out your FICM. My recent rough running issue was due to a bad battery.

4) What is the health of the FICM? What are the FLP and FMP values on a cold soaked engine on start up? If the FLP drops below 10.5 volts and the FMP drops below 45.0 volts for longer then 5 minutes on start up there are issues with your FICM if the charging system is in good health! An FICM that is in poor health will/can cause cold/warm running issues that are similar to stiction. The symptoms usually go away once the truck is up to temperature.


The symptoms you are describing are very similar to when my FICM went **** up a few years ago. Has the truck shut off on you randomly as you are driving?

 

In my case, I had sticking injector... Replaced them all problem solved...

 

Mine is a late 04 and does the exact same thing or at least did. I went to Rotella T-6 5-40 and it greatly improved and than I tried some archoil and it is much, much better. All it does is mask the problem of the injector spools being sticky but until I get the money to actually start doing major work on the excursion I'll live with it. I don't want to do a single injector or two because there are so many other things I want to do. So ill wait and deal with a greatly reduced problem. It really needs to get into the low teens before its a noticeable problem now.

 

I am at the simple fix due to funds. Can anyone advise what it will cost to replace all the injectors?

 

A simple fix, low funds solution is the answer in post #8 above. It also helped for me for a few years.

 

I'd also check the FICM output voltage to see what that shows you. Here's the how-to:

17. Can I test my FICM to ensure that it is the culprit?

Regardless of whether it's the FICM or a sticky injector, plugging the truck in for three hours prior to starting it up should make a HUGE difference.

Hope this helps!

 

any updates?