U-Joint Question
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,590
Likes: 382
From: Texas
U-Joint Question
What do you guys think on replacing U-Joints? Mine "seem" ok and don't shimmy or make noise, but is there a certain mileage that I should consider replacing all three? The odd thing is the front one is greasable and the two rears are sealed. I grease the front one every 10k or so. I just don't want any issues on the road home and I have had this truck 3 years. No telling how old they are. Thanks. Talk away.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 11,132
Likes: 3
From: Southern West Virginia
Morning Byron! 
Look around the rubber boots on the caps and see if there is any orangeish brown dust around them. That would indicate it is dry. If they are all tight, and not dry, they should be fine, but they are one of those things that you could go ahead and replace for peace of mind, and it won't break the bank. If you do replace them, I recommend using Spicer joints. That's all I run in my trucks.
Look around the rubber boots on the caps and see if there is any orangeish brown dust around them. That would indicate it is dry. If they are all tight, and not dry, they should be fine, but they are one of those things that you could go ahead and replace for peace of mind, and it won't break the bank. If you do replace them, I recommend using Spicer joints. That's all I run in my trucks.
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,590
Likes: 382
From: Texas
Originally Posted by ReBilld
Morning Byron! Look around the rubber boots on the caps and see if there is any orangeish brown dust around them. That would indicate it is dry. If they are all tight, and not dry, they should be fine, but they are one of those things that you could go ahead and replace for peace of mind, and it won't break the bank. If you do replace them, I recommend using Spicer joints. That's all I run in my trucks.
Look around the rubber boots on the caps and see if there is any orangeish brown dust around them. That would indicate it is dry. If they are all tight, and not dry, they should be fine, but they are one of those things that you could go ahead and replace for peace of mind, and it won't break the bank. If you do replace them, I recommend using Spicer joints. That's all I run in my trucks.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,583
Likes: 841
From: knoxville, tn
You can pull the drive shaft and check them. Just drop the ends and manipulate the caps. If they are smooth put it back in.
That is probably the best way to make sure the needles are in good shape. You can do the "drive-to-reverse" check to see if it clunks, but the best way to check the condition is to drop an end.
As far as the greaseable or non greaseable I noticed the non seem to be better joints
That is probably the best way to make sure the needles are in good shape. You can do the "drive-to-reverse" check to see if it clunks, but the best way to check the condition is to drop an end.
As far as the greaseable or non greaseable I noticed the non seem to be better joints
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 774
Likes: 25
From: Reno, Nevada
I'm considering the same thing. I've always been old school and liked grease-able u-joints but I'm getting convinced that Spicer non-greaseable joints are the way to go. The local driveline shop also told me that the non-greaseable joints last longer. The seals are superior to the greaseable seal design. I think Summit Racing also sells Spicer joints. The NAPA guy told me that the NAPA brand joints are Spicer but I don't know that for a fact.
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,590
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From: Texas
You can pull the drive shaft and check them. Just drop the ends and manipulate the caps. If they are smooth put it back in.
That is probably the best way to make sure the needles are in good shape. You can do the "drive-to-reverse" check to see if it clunks, but the best way to check the condition is to drop an end.
As far as the greaseable or non greaseable I noticed the non seem to be better joints
That is probably the best way to make sure the needles are in good shape. You can do the "drive-to-reverse" check to see if it clunks, but the best way to check the condition is to drop an end.
As far as the greaseable or non greaseable I noticed the non seem to be better joints
I'm considering the same thing. I've always been old school and liked grease-able u-joints but I'm getting convinced that Spicer non-greaseable joints are the way to go. The local driveline shop also told me that the non-greaseable joints last longer. The seals are superior to the greaseable seal design. I think Summit Racing also sells Spicer joints. The NAPA guy told me that the NAPA brand joints are Spicer but I don't know that for a fact.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,644
Likes: 55
From: Moro Bay, AR
The last time I went to Napa for u-joints I'm glad I checked before leaving the store, they were clearly marked "made in China" on the joint. Went to my regular parts store, same thing on Precision brand joints. Ordered the Spicers, at least they're still "made in USA".
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,410
Likes: 77
From: Plankinton, SD
I put spicer greasables in mine. Nothing wrong with the non greasables, I just like the ones I got. I did all mine at about 145k so don't have many miles on them (17k), but they are in good shape.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,952
Likes: 1
From: Knoxville, TN
I don't know if this is true or not....but some older mechanics once told me that the non greasables are stronger...
ie no weak points...solid vs having grease ports through out... makes some sense...
