Front axel seals part numbers
#1
12-26-2015, 06:22 AM
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#3
12-26-2015, 12:20 PM
F81Z-3254-CB oil seal that presses on to axle shaft
F81Z-4A322-AA hub knuckle o-ring (replace any time the hub is removed)
I don't have the Ford number for thisnone, but the outer seal for the axle tube is National 710413 Oil Sea . I just installed all of these while I was doing ball joints.
F81Z-4A322-AA hub knuckle o-ring (replace any time the hub is removed)
I don't have the Ford number for thisnone, but the outer seal for the axle tube is National 710413 Oil Sea . I just installed all of these while I was doing ball joints.
Last edited by Stewart_H; 12-26-2015 at 02:30 PM. Reason: Merged three posts
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12-26-2015, 12:27 PM
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#6
12-26-2015, 12:34 PM
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Motorcraft BRS-84 might as well replace U-joint at the same time if going that far. Stick with Spicer. Check the tech folder @Stewart_H has assembled for some write ups and also locate 1975stroppebaja's page in there with a list of parts.
#7
12-26-2015, 12:35 PM
The first one I posted is the only one that offers any type of support to the axle shafts. The national oil seal one just keeps dust and such out of the axle tube. The o-ring needs to be replaced anytime the hub is removed from the knuckle. I would definitely lube the hub bearings and needle bearings while the hub is off, and if your esof doesn't work, I would replace any seal you touch in there (the ones listed above are pretty much it). It's not very hard, just takes a little bit of time. If you have any play in your ball joints I would replace them while you are that far into it.
Also, the play in your axle may be the needle bearing itself, so check it while you have it apart
Also, the play in your axle may be the needle bearing itself, so check it while you have it apart
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12-26-2015, 12:48 PM
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Motorcraft BRS-84 might as well replace U-joint at the same time if going that far. Stick with Spicer. Check the tech folder @Stewart_H has assembled for some write ups and also locate 1975stroppebaja's page in there with a list of parts.
The first one I posted is the only one that offers any type of support to the axle shafts. The national oil seal one just keeps dust and such out of the axle tube. The o-ring needs to be replaced anytime the hub is removed from the knuckle. I would definitely lube the hub bearings and needle bearings while the hub is off, and if your esof doesn't work, I would replace any seal you touch in there (the ones listed above are pretty much it). It's not very hard, just takes a little bit of time. If you have any play in your ball joints I would replace them while you are that far into it.
Also, the play in your axle may be the needle bearing itself, so check it while you have it apart
Also, the play in your axle may be the needle bearing itself, so check it while you have it apart
.I saw some pictures of hex washer and cross washer to.
#9
12-26-2015, 06:39 PM
Do some more investigating as to what is causing the front end vibrations, I don't think that you a have any seals that will give you vibrations.
The inner axle oil seals require the front differential to be pulled out of the housing and if you are not leaking any oil from the ends of the axle tubes at the steering knuckles then you don't need those oil seals replaced. They require special tools to install also I believe.
Since you have the Mile Marker manual locking hubs the hub O-ring and yellow seal aren't really needed to be changed out if the unit bearings and axle shafts are pulled, they serve to keep the front hubs sealed for the factory vacuum powered hub locks to work, so not an issue with the MM hubs.
The outer axle tube dust seals, that you can see on the axle tube side of the steering knuckle U joint don't really do anything but keep dust and dirt (in your case sand I would assume
) out of the axle tube, most rigs have these seals broken and hanging loose without any issues. Mine have been hanging loose for the last 40k miles.If you do go as far as pulling the unit bearings off the knuckle then be sure to check out the needle bearing that the outer axle shaft rides on inside the unit bearing, it is replaceable or can be relubed and reused if there isn't any sign of problems with it or the stub axle.
The unit bearing itself is a sealed unit but it can be greased if you have the ABS sensor holes in them, both Riff-Raff and Member Snowseeker have the cool little fittings to allow for a grease gun to be hooked to the unit bearing for a grease fill up, about 24 full pumps of grease from a full sized grease gun per bearing.
If I was going to the trouble of pulling the axle shafts out I would definitely replace the U joints at the steering knuckles while it was apart.
Again if digging deep into the front end give the ball joints a very good inspection and replace if there is any play in them.
How is parts availability for these rigs in your part of the world?
#10
12-27-2015, 10:33 AM
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Do some more investigating as to what is causing the front end vibrations, I don't think that you a have any seals that will give you vibrations.
The inner axle oil seals require the front differential to be pulled out of the housing and if you are not leaking any oil from the ends of the axle tubes at the steering knuckles then you don't need those oil seals replaced. They require special tools to install also I believe.
Since you have the Mile Marker manual locking hubs the hub O-ring and yellow seal aren't really needed to be changed out if the unit bearings and axle shafts are pulled, they serve to keep the front hubs sealed for the factory vacuum powered hub locks to work, so not an issue with the MM hubs.
The outer axle tube dust seals, that you can see on the axle tube side of the steering knuckle U joint don't really do anything but keep dust and dirt (in your case sand I would assume) out of the axle tube, most rigs have these seals broken and hanging loose without any issues. Mine have been hanging loose for the last 40k miles.
If you do go as far as pulling the unit bearings off the knuckle then be sure to check out the needle bearing that the outer axle shaft rides on inside the unit bearing, it is replaceable or can be relubed and reused if there isn't any sign of problems with it or the stub axle.
The unit bearing itself is a sealed unit but it can be greased if you have the ABS sensor holes in them, both Riff-Raff and Member Snowseeker have the cool little fittings to allow for a grease gun to be hooked to the unit bearing for a grease fill up, about 24 full pumps of grease from a full sized grease gun per bearing.
If I was going to the trouble of pulling the axle shafts out I would definitely replace the U joints at the steering knuckles while it was apart.
Again if digging deep into the front end give the ball joints a very good inspection and replace if there is any play in them.
How is parts availability for these rigs in your part of the world?
The inner axle oil seals require the front differential to be pulled out of the housing and if you are not leaking any oil from the ends of the axle tubes at the steering knuckles then you don't need those oil seals replaced. They require special tools to install also I believe.
Since you have the Mile Marker manual locking hubs the hub O-ring and yellow seal aren't really needed to be changed out if the unit bearings and axle shafts are pulled, they serve to keep the front hubs sealed for the factory vacuum powered hub locks to work, so not an issue with the MM hubs.
The outer axle tube dust seals, that you can see on the axle tube side of the steering knuckle U joint don't really do anything but keep dust and dirt (in your case sand I would assume
) out of the axle tube, most rigs have these seals broken and hanging loose without any issues. Mine have been hanging loose for the last 40k miles.If you do go as far as pulling the unit bearings off the knuckle then be sure to check out the needle bearing that the outer axle shaft rides on inside the unit bearing, it is replaceable or can be relubed and reused if there isn't any sign of problems with it or the stub axle.
The unit bearing itself is a sealed unit but it can be greased if you have the ABS sensor holes in them, both Riff-Raff and Member Snowseeker have the cool little fittings to allow for a grease gun to be hooked to the unit bearing for a grease fill up, about 24 full pumps of grease from a full sized grease gun per bearing.
If I was going to the trouble of pulling the axle shafts out I would definitely replace the U joints at the steering knuckles while it was apart.
Again if digging deep into the front end give the ball joints a very good inspection and replace if there is any play in them.
How is parts availability for these rigs in your part of the world?
Pretty rare and ridiculously expensive
Online stores is my friends..
I still love my truck ,
best truck ever to me .Also i have
08 Navigator
07 taho
2012 denali
And prefer the EX to drive.
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