Click with no start
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New User
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: New Jersey
Click with no start
So I bought a Lifted 1999 F250 a couple weeks ago and last night the thing wouldn't start. The battery connections are not perfect but there's power going to the truck because it will give me the wait to start light and all. When I try to start it there's one really loud click and certain lights like the clock momentarily turn off when it clicks. Tried hitting the starter didn't work. Tried putting a jump pack to the starter and it didn't spark like expected. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Joined: Sep 2014
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From: Asheville-where weird is
Hi and welcome to the forum. You can work this from the batts to the starter or reverse.
Check and clean all of your grounds: at the battery, at the block, and at the chassis.
Then, if there is no change, clean all positives from the batteries, to the starter solenoid, all the way to the starter.
Then, if it isn't fixed, start looking at the B+ to the components. Batteries, then solenoid, then see if you are getting power all the way to the starter. If so, the starter is probably gone. If not, make sure the solenoid is powering up properly. If not, then the solenoid is probably done.
It all comes down to tracing wire from the Batts to the starter. If it is none of this come back and tell us what you've accomplished.
Check and clean all of your grounds: at the battery, at the block, and at the chassis.
Then, if there is no change, clean all positives from the batteries, to the starter solenoid, all the way to the starter.
Then, if it isn't fixed, start looking at the B+ to the components. Batteries, then solenoid, then see if you are getting power all the way to the starter. If so, the starter is probably gone. If not, make sure the solenoid is powering up properly. If not, then the solenoid is probably done.
It all comes down to tracing wire from the Batts to the starter. If it is none of this come back and tell us what you've accomplished.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Bishop
My starter died on me with no warning at all. I actually thought it might be the batteries at first. The starter was seized up and after a couple of tries you will know if it is bad because it will get really hot, especially if it isn't moving. You can either get down there and feel if its hot, or have someone else try to crank it and watch it when they do. Mine puffed a little bit of smoke when I had my brother in law try and turn it over. I didn't want to take a chance so I bought OEM from the stealership. It's super easy to replace. If your batteries are no good, you won't have any luck cranking over these beasts.
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New User
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 3
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From: New Jersey
Hi and welcome to the forum. You can work this from the batts to the starter or reverse.
Check and clean all of your grounds: at the battery, at the block, and at the chassis.
Then, if there is no change, clean all positives from the batteries, to the starter solenoid, all the way to the starter.
Then, if it isn't fixed, start looking at the B+ to the components. Batteries, then solenoid, then see if you are getting power all the way to the starter. If so, the starter is probably gone. If not, make sure the solenoid is powering up properly. If not, then the solenoid is probably done.
It all comes down to tracing wire from the Batts to the starter. If it is none of this come back and tell us what you've accomplished.
Check and clean all of your grounds: at the battery, at the block, and at the chassis.
Then, if there is no change, clean all positives from the batteries, to the starter solenoid, all the way to the starter.
Then, if it isn't fixed, start looking at the B+ to the components. Batteries, then solenoid, then see if you are getting power all the way to the starter. If so, the starter is probably gone. If not, make sure the solenoid is powering up properly. If not, then the solenoid is probably done.
It all comes down to tracing wire from the Batts to the starter. If it is none of this come back and tell us what you've accomplished.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,404
Likes: 3
From: Asheville-where weird is
A volt/ohm meter is best so that you will know how many volts are actually reaching the starter. A simple test light will let you know if there is absolutely 0 power getting there...not likely.
Test your B+ first.
Yes, there are other things that it could be. These are the most likely, obvious, and easy to change.
A decent wire brush. Baking soda and water to address the areas where there is corrosion which will neutralize the acid, avoid the alternator, and some decent conductive grease/sealant to coat the "now" clean metal to finish up.
Test your B+ first.
Yes, there are other things that it could be. These are the most likely, obvious, and easy to change.
A decent wire brush. Baking soda and water to address the areas where there is corrosion which will neutralize the acid, avoid the alternator, and some decent conductive grease/sealant to coat the "now" clean metal to finish up.
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New User
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
A volt/ohm meter is best so that you will know how many volts are actually reaching the starter. A simple test light will let you know if there is absolutely 0 power getting there...not likely.
Test your B+ first.
Yes, there are other things that it could be. These are the most likely, obvious, and easy to change.
A decent wire brush. Baking soda and water to address the areas where there is corrosion which will neutralize the acid, avoid the alternator, and some decent conductive grease/sealant to coat the "now" clean metal to finish up.
Test your B+ first.
Yes, there are other things that it could be. These are the most likely, obvious, and easy to change.
A decent wire brush. Baking soda and water to address the areas where there is corrosion which will neutralize the acid, avoid the alternator, and some decent conductive grease/sealant to coat the "now" clean metal to finish up.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,404
Likes: 3
From: Asheville-where weird is
That is a good question...and everyone has to make their own decision.
Dielectric Grease vs Conductive Grease
Dielectric Grease vs Conductive Grease
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,465
Likes: 17
From: Jacksonville, FL
Originally Posted by BuckYoung
What grease or sealant would you recommend
Most of the large home improvement stores have it in their electrical section.
I have also used di-electric grease on terminations before, and while it is an insulator it does well at keeping oxidization at bay and can provide a sound termination if used correctly.
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