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2005 f350 6.0 arp head studs, egr delete, and a bunch of other goodies too.
Tee'd into my cooling system right before my Sinister cooling filtration system. At cold start the system climbed to 15psi at idle within a minute. HEAD GASKETS! Im so excited to do Hg's on a studded truck. Was just wondering what you guys would advise me to do once the truck is tore down. Obviously milling and decking the heads. I was thinking fire rings because I really only want to do this once. I was also thinking about getting the intake ported by Windrunner and moving towards a wick wheel for the turbo along with a good cleaning even tho its only got 8,000miles on it. My latest lab sample detected coolant in the engine oil. I'm guilty of DD on xtreme so I guess if you're gonna play you're gonna pay $$$.. Lol #diesel life
8000 miles since studding? That's harsh. Did you do the work or was it done by a shop. I don't think fire ringing is necessary. Did you use stock head gaskets or the Victor Reinze type?
I have never heard of pressure building that fast just idling from a head gasket. If you weren't EGR deleted, I'd be more suspicious of that.
How was it deleted? Previously ruptured EGR cooler welded with freeze plugs? A proper delete kit?
If the problem is head gaskets, they are blown pretty severely. I'm sure you already know not to drive it and have it towed to whichever shop you're taking it to, unless you're going to fix it yourself.
If the head gaskets are leaking that severely, i would suspect badly warped heads or improperly torqued studs. Some people/shops don't get the heads checked or machined when fixing blown HGs. I have a buddy who bought a studded, deleted ram with a 6.7L cummins that blew the head gasket in a similar way you are experiencing. The studs were not only torqued wrong, but a couple studs could almost be turned by hand.
I haven't heard of that kit before, but that pretty much eliminates the EGR cooler side of the equation.
Well, you know what you gotta do. Unfortunately the studs weren't done right the first time or the truck was pushed way too hard with hot tune WOT runs on a very cold motor, which i doubt you would do. Unless someone has secretly added an air compressor to your cooling system, you've got some heads to check and gaskets to replace. At least the studs are reusable. Good luck with the repair. It seems you have a good attitude about the situation.
Edit:
I noticed you said the gauge was plumbed in BEFORE the coolant filter? Are the valves (if it has them) open? I can see how closed valves or a clogged filter would build quick pressure where you have the gauge.
First off I think I would move the tap and retest it.
May not change things much or at all but right before a
filter will add some back pressure to what the gauge is
going to see. Tap for the "T" in the return to the degas
bottle and retest it there.
I have never heard of pressure building that fast just idling from a head gasket. If you weren't EGR deleted, I'd be more suspicious of that.
How was it deleted? Previously ruptured EGR cooler welded with freeze plugs? A proper delete kit?
If the problem is head gaskets, they are blown pretty severely. I'm sure you already know not to drive it and have it towed to whichever shop you're taking it to, unless you're going to fix it yourself.
If the head gaskets are leaking that severely, i would suspect badly warped heads or improperly torqued studs. Some people/shops don't get the heads checked or machined when fixing blown HGs. I have a buddy who bought a studded, deleted ram with a 6.7L cummins that blew the head gasket in a similar way you are experiencing. The studs were not only torqued wrong, but a couple studs could almost be turned by hand.
So the 6.0 is not the only engine that might end up needing studs?
Interesting, I was not aware of that.
Im just a little skeptical if i do injectors in the future that would pull me close to 550-600hp will doing a head gasket and restudding really be enough?
First off I think I would move the tap and retest it.
May not change things much or at all but right before a
filter will add some back pressure to what the gauge is
going to see. Tap for the "T" in the return to the degas
bottle and retest it there.
x2, this was my first thought as well. The filter IS going to introduce a pressure differential since it needs a pressure difference to push the coolant through the filter..
I would tap in to the small return line at the reservoir, since it's the air pressure you want to measure (since that is what the cap is seeing as well)..
So the 6.0 is not the only engine that might end up needing studs?
Interesting, I was not aware of that.
The cummins engines only tend to blow head gaskets if they are driven too hard when they are cold or when they have hit tuning. The exception to this is the 2007.5-2012 engines. They will blow head gaskets when the DPF clogs too much and the truck is still pushed.
The 2008-2010 6.4 ford diesels also blow head gaskets, due to emission issues or under tuning.
The duramax engines, especially the LLY are prone to blow gaskets too when tuned. The LLY (2004-2005) blows them just as easily, if not easier, than the 6.0. They also have a weak cooling system and are prone to overheat when towing heavy.
