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OEM or Not???

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Old Jul 8, 2016 | 06:38 PM
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Question OEM or Not???

Hi All,

I've been loosing coolant and was told by a garage that my head gaskets were leaking. Since I'm not especially trusting when it comes to bad news. I did a pressure test and under load the pressure climbed until it "Burped". So since I don't have the 5-6 grand that the shop wants to do the job, she is in my shop.
Here is my question, I've been watching You-Tube video Diesel Ron (R.I.P.), and srmastertech and I'm wondering about the parts that should be replaced and whether or not they should be OEM or another brand. The EGR Delete and new Oil Cooler have already been done.

I'm a "Wood Butcher" by trade and a mechanic by necessity so any and all help and advise would be greatly appreciated.

BigJohn
2006 F-250 Super-Duty 6.0L
If it ain't broke use a bigger hammer
 
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Old Jul 8, 2016 | 06:42 PM
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a Bad egr cooler can cause pressure in coolant system

how was the egr deleated


your probably right bad head gasket and maybe warped head


is it tuned
 
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Old Jul 8, 2016 | 08:34 PM
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how much pressure did it build to before cap burped? when cold after sitting all night is water level about 1-2" off bottom in front of tank?
 
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Old Jul 8, 2016 | 09:01 PM
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As far as the head gaskets go I believe most will tell you to use the Ford head gaskets but some guys have been trying the new fel pros. I haven't heard anything bad about them yet. Make sure you replace the factory TTY head bolts with ARP studs. Last time I had my intake off I used fel pro intake gaskets and they seemed to be good quality. Also send the heads away to a reputable machine shop that has experience with 6.0 heads and get them checked for cracks and straightness. Good luck.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 12:22 AM
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Whay did the pressure climb to? Was the coolant 4" below the top. Is the degass cap good. What type of egr delete?

All things that can cause puking instead of the HGs.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 07:21 PM
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by a shop that only works on Diesels I'm not exactly sure but I did the first one myself and they weren't happy with the one I did, used the original and blocked it off with a weld and bypass. So I think they used the "Bullet-Proof" EGR Delete
 
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 07:27 PM
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right at 16psi
 
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BigJohn61
right at 16psi
Originally Posted by J ballan
As far as the head gaskets go I believe most will tell you to use the Ford head gaskets but some guys have been trying the new fel pros. I haven't heard anything bad about them yet. Make sure you replace the factory TTY head bolts with ARP studs. Last time I had my intake off I used fel pro intake gaskets and they seemed to be good quality. Also send the heads away to a reputable machine shop that has experience with 6.0 heads and get them checked for cracks and straightness. Good luck.
thanks I will, Rock Auto has the Fel-Pro gaskets and the bolts, I've been on the Bullet Proof site but they are pretty Proud of their stuff. but I got it down to being ready to start removing the head bolts, didn't lift the cab off so it is going slower but like I said earlier I'm more partial to wood than metal, so slower is okay with me.
thanks for the help
 
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by BigJohn61
right at 16psi
I'm a newb here but I think 16#'s is where the proper cap relief should be.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 08:30 PM
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yes it is, but it shouldn't be burping at all. All I did was add a "T" and a length of hose, and a pressure gauge, so I could see what was happening for myself under a load
not a happy day...
 
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 08:33 PM
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I would plumb a pressure gauge into the cooling system at the degass bottle, tie into one of the smaller lines with a tee and put a 30 PSI gauge in, watch the pressure when driving, it should stay below 16 PSI, then when its hot CAREFULLY let the pressure off at the cap then close the system back up and drive. The pressure should stay at 0 PSI hot, take a couple of hard runs and if the pressure goes up then you have a leak some where. If the EGR has been deleted then its probably head gaskets. I used OEM gaskets and ARP bolts, from Ed at FICM.com. If its HG take your time, there are a couple of special tools you will need and several ways to do it cab on. I did it several months ago while recovering from shoulder surgery.

Others will jump in and direct you in the right direction, its not as bad as it seems. Let me know if you need the head lifting tool and adapter for the back driver headbolt.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by BigJohn61
yes it is, but it shouldn't be burping at all. All I did was add a "T" and a length of hose, and a pressure gauge, so I could see what was happening for myself under a load
not a happy day...
Like I said, I'm a newb. Hope it goes better for you.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 10:01 PM
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OEM or Not???

Confirm it builds coolant system pressure after warmed up by loosening and tightening the degass cap before making an absolute diagnosis....like posted above. But, if memory serves, mine builds about 1 psi after I vent the pressure.

If it builds more than 5 psi pressure after venting it's 100% chance of HGs.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 10:15 PM
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What kinda wood do you butcher


Im a trim guy lots of home theaters Hidden doors mud rooms etc... little framing here and there
 
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 05:38 AM
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thanks, that is exactly how I did it I've got it down to the head bolts yesterday. I'm waiting on a "Half-Moon" 10mm wrench should be here this week so I can disconnect the manifold to the up-pipe. The only problem I've had so far is when I pulled the Turbo off I hit the oil filter up pipe and snapped it off. I'm hoping that all I have to do is unscrew the torx screws and replace the pipe without pulling something deeper.

Other than that it's been slow and easy
 
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