Ok so it's been a while since I've been on here but I've got a new issue with my truck. It's 1995 Ford F150 and the issue that I'm having is when my truck is at idle, my turn signal and heater slow right down but as soon as I step on the gas it all speeds up. I've changed the ground cable and I ran that ground directly from the battery to the engine. I've also replaced the alternator plus a new battery with no success. So if there is something I'm missing please help me figure it out cause I don't want to be stranded on the road especially if it's serious




Truck Crazy Man

 

Do you have an amp gauge or just a light ? I had a similar issue and this is not an every day driver and mine will get so bad sometimes that it will not start the truck. For me the issue was simply cleaning the battery posts and terminal connectors. I would start with that and when battery unhooked check the starter relay connections as well .... if that doesn't work perhaps start checking ground connections ?

 

I have an amp gauge and the gauge isn't fluctuating. It's almost in the center where it's supposed to be at, It doesn't fluctuate at all. I've replaced the battery so the terminals are clean. I thought it was a bad ground so I put a new ground from the battery to the engine. But while the engine is running at idle speed like at a stop light, the electrical components such as signal lights and the blower motor are running real sluggish. But when I step on the gas they seem to get stronger this is the problem I have. If anyone can pinpoint this for me so I know exactly what my next direction to go is instead of taking a stab in the dark and getting nowhere

 

You have checked your grounds to the engine . Did you check your body grounds ?
I would clean and inspect them next . Also be sure your positive connections are proper . Best of luck !

 

Well I would first check all the grounds and other electrical connections. The next step would be to find out why that gauge isn't working. I had 2 issues with a 94, bad wiring behind the dash gauges was one of them, don't recall if that was for the amp gauge or not, the second was a bad wire under the fuse box on the drivers side inner fender that fed up to a relay. These two issues were a couple of my most challenging electrical gremlins that I had to find. Hope you have better luck.

 

I don't have an electrical diagram for you ammeter circuit, but I would be looking into this if the issues continue .... check fuses and relays first then basically track backwards from the amp meter until you get a signal ....

 

Without trying to sound rude, I don't think I'm making myself clear enough. I've checked all the grounds already, but as an example, think of a dimmer switch. It's as if the turn signals need constant power in order to stay at full power. When I am at a stop light they slow right down just as if the dimmer switch has been turned down, but when I accelerate they speed up just as if the switch as been turned right up. Could this be a relay problem or an open circuit system issue. Is there something that stops the current from back flowing when the engine is idling?

 

Ok then starting with basics, have you gone to a shop and checked your battery and charging system ? You can't tell what kind of output your alternator is putting out 'cause your gauge doesn't work. Maybe you have a bad battery or an alternator going bad or already there. I understood what you were saying from the beginning ....

 

Sounds like belt tensioner isn't quite cutting it anymore, at an idle the belt slips just a little bit allowing voltage to drop off as the alt slows down.

When given little bit of throttle the alternator speed kicks back up as the belt grabs returning voltage to normal level.

Should be reflected in the amp gauge reading but maybe the gauge reads low all the time, below normal voltage, a multi meter would tell the tail.

 

The battery is new and so is the alternator so I know it's not that

 

New does not necessarily mean good. A quick test with a multimeter will answer a lot of questions.

 

If the speed of the blinkers is slowing and then speeding up then the voltage regulation isn't being regulated too well. Voltage is fluctuating for some reason. Poor grounds and connections could do it.

These are about 10 bucks and plug into the cigar lighter, can monitor voltage at engine crank, idle and cruising around.

 

There is a correction to be made the amp gauge is fluctuating. It goes from one end of the gauge to the other. Down to zero when it's idling and up to max when it's accelerating. Is there an external voltage regulator on the truck that I need to be looking for or is there some other electrical problem that could be causing this. I'm beyond frustrated now.

 

No external voltage regulator, its part of the alternator or rather mounted to the back of it.



Those tend to just stop charging, springs fail or brushes wear
down.


Have you check the belt tension?

My 94 was doing the exact same thing, I found the belt was just loose enough to slip during idle speed but grab and charge at just a hair above idle speed. IIRC what clued me into it was it got to the point i'd loose power assist in the wheel for brief moments with excessive maneuvering at idle speed plowing snow, couple of quick turns say to pull in or out of a parking spot wouldn't be enough to cause the belt to slip on the PSPP even though it was allowing the belt around the alt pulley to slip, pulley size clearly came into play.

Belt tensioner was froze up couldn't put that little bit extra needed to the belt to drive the alternator idle speed once the belt had wore down, a new one corrected the problem (not the belt the tensioner, I did replace the belt too though).

Might not be your issue but only take a couple of minutes to find out, doesn't sound like you looked into that aspect at all?

Reason I mention it again....

 

I would really hope you didn't get a bad new alternator, but people get bad new parts all the time, especially rebuilt items like alts can be.

Get er' load tested.