I may need to make more changes but it's just too darn cold to do them right now. Even with the new block heater and timer set at two hours the truck barely started here in Iowa. Temp this morning was 5 wind chill was -1. It's supposed to get to 20 by the time I get off work so crossing my fingers it starts. I may have to wimp out and take it to GoodYear and have them put the synthetic in and hope that holds me till spring when I can then try and do some upgrades such as injectors.

 

2 hours isn't long enough, bump it to 4 hours. Change it to 5W-40 synthetic, brand of your choice, and it wiull start fine. 4hours seems to be the magic number. Wind chill is meaningless as far as the truck goes, but 5 degrees is cold just the same. If your GP system is in order and you cycle them for 60-90 seconds your truck SHOULD start, even off the block heater. If it doesn't there is an issue.

 

I have both a question and a comment. I had this problem just after Christmas road trip to Washington, (02 7.3 Excursion) all was well no issues. Got back to Oregon and the truck sat for 7 or so days it had been below 0 at night, and never got above 15 during the day, and on the 7th day.... tried to start the truck and just crank crank crank, no hint of ignition at all, I ASSumed Gelling in the fuel? Plugged it in for 4 hours and it then started no problem. I added some anti-gel . Then it sat again for a week although not as cold- it hesitated to start but did and then stumbled for 5 seconds?

Talked with a few Diesel mechanics, one said there is always a constant drain in these trucks,and if/when they sit for an extended amount of time they could have a low cranking amps situation, if this occurs, there may not be enough power to get fuel delivered for ignition, can anybody confirm this?

Other Diesel shop I brought it to hooked it up to their scan tool and found nothing wrong ( I was not sure you could test the GPR,GP's via a scan tool, maybe they looked for codes?) He then went on to say he would have to see the cold start first hand, then speculated it could possibly be an IPR or ICP valve sticking?

Maybe this helps, maybe not, but though I would put it out there so the pros can dissect it?

 

All of today's vehicles have some sort of draw on the batteries at all times. I think that the PCM uses a little, the radios all use a little and if there's a clock in there it uses some too. Not a whole lot but they use it constantly so over time it adds up.

Plugging it in does not negate gelled fuel, nothing but warmer conditions will thin the fuel enough to run it through the filters. Once it has been thinned you can help it with some sort of anti-gel additives.

 

+1 I also notice temp gauge is well off cold when plugged in all night. It's great cause it's almost ready to blow heat!

 

They aren't checking GP's with a scan tool.

 

I bumped my timer to 4 hours so hopefully that makes a difference. I really want to change my own oil but not sure I want to do it in the cold. However I just checked the temps and Thursday is supposed to hit upper 30s so I might shoot for doing it then. I have to change a ignition coil on the Saturn Wednesday night when the part comes in. Hopefully I get it done in one night so that I can do the truck oil the next night.

 

Word has it that the filters can be tough to get off. I would recommend that you get it broken loose as a first step.

 

And I ran the batteries down. Freezing my your know what off. How would I know if the fuel jelled? I'm running winter mix but don't recall putting 911 in the tank the last time I filled up.

 

You wouldn't have put 911 in unless you were in a gelled situation, I don't think. It's a bit pricey to be using as a preventative. Pull the full filter cover off and look for waxy crystals.

 

Diesel 911 isn't for use as an anti-gel. It's only for use after the fuel has already gelled. For an anti-gel, the Power Service additive in the white bottle has a good reputation.

 

Copy that, I figured as much, but I also thought that it might create a code that would tell him if there was a bad GP, or relay, not the case?

Also at the time, I was under the impression that when the WTS light went off that the GP had cycled, not the case I see, since then I wait for at least 60-90 seconds before I start and it seem to have helped. If its really cold then I will cycle them twice.

HKusp, I will have to pull the filter and check for crystals/residual, will they ever go away on their own w/o changing the filter? OP hope I am not hijacking, simply "piggy backing"....

 

If you have an Excursion or a truck that was manufactured for sale specifically in California, it will have a glow plug module that may set a code for GP's, so I may have spoken out of turn there. You are doing the right thing cycling those the way you are. Once it warms up, yes, those crystals will eventually disolve.

 

Yeah an Excursion, but not sure if it was Mfg. for sale in Ca. or not? I did buy it in Reno, which is kiiinda close? Well thanks for the advice, hope the OP can get his issue figured out, maybe he can try driving it a little more frequently and see if that helps? If i remember correctly it sat for long periods of time?

 

Your excursion will have a module that will set a code (down to what plug is bad)

WMBrown, did you test both the glow plugs and block heater?
Simple tests are a volt meter or batt guage dip during glow cycle and a temp gun or your guage before and after heater.