I changed the head gasket
Now the oil has more water in it
I torqued it in the pattern and the steps and the right torque

 

Did you clean up the head and block deck surfaces before you installed the new gasket? Did you check the head to make sure it wasn't warped? Did you check the head & the block for cracks?

 

Hello gameover1974, welcome to the forums.

In the future, please be sure to actually ask a question. It's rude to simply state your problem and not even ask for help and expect others to infer. Every single member is here out of courtesy, and no one is required to help anyone, so do appreciate that.

But fordman75 is right. If you simply just changed the head gasket out, you may have put a bad head back on. Also, did you put on new head bolts? They are only designed to be used once, maybe twice at the most.

 

Sorry, I have asked I other forums I'm just frustrated
I'm new to this and do apologize.
So you recommend me to also change the head of machine it, right? And also get new head bolts?
I only ask cause my dad is stingy and that's why I'm in this predicament. I want to do it right, he wants to do it cheap, lol
Again I apologize

 

Most of the time a head gasket failure isn't really the "problem" but a symptom of another (the actual) problem - overheating for example, which in turn may have caused yet other, more serious issues. It requires some troubleshooting and care to determine exactly why the gasket failed, repairs to prevent this from recurring, and using best maintenance practices to ensure it doesn't leak due to improper installation methods.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/gasket_failure.htm

http://www.aa1car.com/library/ic697.htm

 

No worries.
It's more for your benefit since there are a lot of knowledgeable people here, and you're much more likely to get the help you need if you're polite and your question is clear to understand.


As for engine work... cheap never pays off. That's just how it is. Sometimes you'll get lucky, but in my early experience of doing things cheaply, I quickly learned that doing the same job two or three times over because I did it for cheap ended up costing more than doing it right the first time.

The head on the 300 is LONG, and has a tendency to warp over the years because of it, especially if it overheated or something. Machining it back to flat will remedy the issue. However, you have to be sure it isn't cracked. If it's cracked, you need a new head.

And yeah, you always want new headbolts. They're not regular bolts, but are actually springed steel. When you torque them down, they stretch and their springiness puts extra pressure on the head, while still allowing it to expand and contract with heat. However, if you remove them and then torque them down again, they stretch again, which often ruins their effectiveness.
Sometimes you can get way with using them twice, but you would have to know for certain that they've only been used once, which is next to impossible on a used vehicle unless you installed them yourself.

Also try some copper spray on the head gasket. I've had good luck with it. Spray the gasket down and let it dry.
Then install and torque it all down properly.

Best of luck, hope it goes well.

 

"As for engine work... cheap never pays off."

A saying of my Dad was "Cheap is the most expensive you can get".

 

Boy, Dad was right! That holds true with all kinds of things, not just truck repair or maintenance. "Buy once, cry once".

Frugal is good. Cheap is Expensive!

 

Thanks, one more question, will the new gasket still be ok to use? How do I tell if it's not?
Thanks again

 

If you are pulling the head I would replace the gasket again. Unless you really want to pull the head again after you put it back together.

 

I'm surprised you'd even ask that question, after all the trouble so far, assuming you read and understand the outstanding links provided. Maybe not.

Are those actually TTY fasteners in that motor?

 

I didn't think any 240/300 had the torque to yield head bolts.

 

Your headgasket crushes and squeezes to expand into all the gaps, scratches, grooves, etc. to fill them when you torque it down in order to create a "perfect" seal. There's a tremendous amount of explosive pressure on a headgasket compared to all the other gaskets in your engine, so it's not a simple piece of material.

Like the headbolts, it'll only crush down once. After that, it's permanently formed to its last install.

As such, you should always replace it.

I know it hurts to keep spending more money (been there), but those are the breaks.

 

Thanks I will take your advice

 

What is the tube that runs along the head called, I think is a injector cooling tube but I don't know how to order it, any ideas?