Just removed what's left of the wvo system in my truck. Wasn't connected.. Had no need for it. To short of driving.

Well are these 2 devices on the outside of pic fuel pumps? The one to the right there's one in my truck similar to that one. Doesnt have mech pump anymore. If these are for fuel and I'm guessing one of left is the dura lift one everyone talks about what do I need to do to use it

Thanks.

 

The one that says Carrier is the Facet/Duralift pump. If these were already on the truck, you should be most of the way there. Someone must have already installed the block-off plate (or the stock pump is still there. Either way, the hole is plugged) and whatever wires were hooked up to the pump were likely hooked into a key-on 12V source. Mount the pump (remember that this pump likes to pull, so mount it up high), plumb it feeding into a fuel filter (hopefully the stock one is still there), hook the wires back up, and you should be good to go. Although, I would go check the wiring and make sure everything there is sound. Never can trust a previous owner all that much.

Mike

 

All the wiring was taken apart. This was sitting there just hooked up to plumbing for wvo. What about the one one the right. There's one exactly like that about 3 feet from my fuel tank. Is that a lift pump just a crapper one? Whatever I do with this has to be done from scratch. Is the psi all ok? Dobi have to remove the other pump also

 

No idea on that other pump. If I were you, I'd plumb it all fresh from the FSV. As for wiring, you need to hook in a relayed 12v source that is set to activate when the key is on. You can throw together the wiring kit yourself, or there are companies like Painless wiring that offer complete kits for things like this, which is what I did.

There are multiple models of the Carrier pump, so it's tough to say if yours is the appropriate specs. I bought mine off the group buy where someone had already done the research to spec out the right pump, but I have heard of others installing stronger pumps and then installing a regulator to dial it back. Hopefully someone here can chime in with part numbers, etc.

Mike

 

Awesome deal. Well I'll see if I can grab some model numbers off it. I was looking around its suppose to be at about 6psi correct ? I have,to do some work to this trucks fuel system. The filter head does not look like the others I see either, missing lots of stuff, looks,like theres no water Sep either, ugh. Thank goodness I got it for a fan deal haha

 

I'm reading up on the install of the pump. Talking about relays and what not. Do those have to be on there? Was just gonna use the current wires from the electric pump I got in there

 

I may be wrong, but relays on older vehicles were used as a sort of "if-then" type device. More or less determining if the correct series of events were in place then send power. They are more used in modern vehicles to separate 12V from things like variable voltage fuel systems so the 12V signal could still initiate the power. Could be wrong, but I always like my relays... they act as surge protectors in certain instances by separating 2 different 12V sources thus limiting the maximum Amps that can be drawn by the device needing power. (Ex. 12V ignition [20 amp] sending command signal to the pump and a fusible link to a fuel pump [50 amp?] Giving a draw of 70 amps? Could be wrong though

 

It all depends on how the wiring is run now... You had a duel fuel system that would have been modified from the factory wiring.
The easiest way to make sure it works right would be to ignore any current wiring and run a relay off the FSS. That would guarantee you have power to the pump whenever the key is on.

You may be able to cut out and reuse some of the modified wires themselves. I just wouldn't trust how stuff was run since you've changed it back towards 'stock'

 

This kinda gets back to my point I made about already having the wiring there. If you know/understand/trust the wiring that's there, then go for it. But, if it's wired in a way that doesn't use a relay, I'd be worried.

A relay is just a switch that gets activated by electricity. You use a small amount of electricity to throw a switch on a larger amount of electricity. So, in this case, you tap into a circuit that turns on when the key is on. That will than activate the relay(switch) to turn on power to the fuel pump, which should be sourced from a larger power source (like directly off the battery or some kind of distribution block). You use a relay because you don't want to just splice the power to the pump directly into any old circuit. The pump draws a decent amount of power and will likely overload it, leading to popped fuses or worse.

If you decide to start from scratch and don't want to deal with sourcing all the bits you need, here's a great kit from Painless that gets you almost everything you need for a reasonable price: . Also comes with instructions on how to wire it in. I used this kit on my install and, as the name implies, it made the wiring very painless. Tecgod13 suggested tapping the FSS circuit for your 'key on' source, which is the popular option. I, however, went a slightly different route and used a fuse tap off the fuse panel for a 'key on' circuit. I used one of these to tap the fuse: . I can't remember which circuit I tapped exactly, but when you peruse the fuse list on the back of the panel, just look for a device that you know is only on when the key is on and tap into that one. To get the wire from the fuse out into the engine compartment, I drilled a small hole in the large rubber grommet where the computer would be if these trucks were EFI (easy to access if you remove the driver's kick panel). You can yank the rubber piece out, drill the hole, and re-insert it. Very easy.

Mike

 

Painless may have everything sourced, but they charge up the wazoo for it. Here is pretty much the same stuff for $20 less:

Honestly its really easy to wire this stuff up, and you may have all the wiring you need, with relays. The problem is none of us have a clue how it was wired for the WVO conversion...

Getting the trigger from the FSS and using a simple add-on fuse holder is easy as it keeps all the wiring under the hood. You can mount the relay on the passenger fender well next to the starter solenoid, attach the relay ground wire to the screw holding it too the fender. Then run a short wire through an add on fuse to the solenoid where the rest of the wires come from. Then just add a wire to the FSS. Many people mount the pump somewhere near there, so the wires are all short and in the same place. No need to breach the firewall and add a potential place for water to leak, not to mention added complexity.

 

Yeah, that JEGS kit is a deal. I went with Painless only because their stuff is allegedly 'Made in USA', but I was very disappointed to find a lot of 'made in China' stuff in the kit. What they mean is that the kit is put together in the US, but using foreign components. Sneaky sneaky.

I started slicing into the FSS wiring when I did mine, but the sheathing was pretty thick and my harness was in great shape. I didn't want to create an opportunity for somehow degrading it, which is why I went the way I did. Yeah, it's longer wiring, but it works.

Mike