When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So here is the question, good work or was I just taken for a few bucks ?
A few years ago found this guy who works out of a small shop, the city built up around him, but he just keeps on doing what he does in that little old shop. Anyways I usually take him my alternators and starters when they need some attention. Had a small starter that was a real mess and he replaced a few parts couple weeks ago, bench tested, it seemed fine. I installed it into a new to me basket case didn't work so good. Took it back out and visited him to tell him that it doesn't seem to make contact with flywheel, no crank, just whining. So he bench tested again to view the throwout and such, seemed Ok. But then he took a stick held against the gear and tried to start it. 1st time it worked, 2nd he held back the gear, internally spinning. Took it all apart and put in a plastic piece that the 3 small inner gears contact. Didn't stress test again, said it sounded good, which it did compared to first test.
So, the question, did he intentionally over stress causing the need to replace, or was that a legit test ? I would describe the stick as a 3 ft cutoff hockey stick kind of a deal and he put a good amt of weight on it .... it obviously is used for this purpose, you could see round cutouts where gears have eaten it up during these tests ...
i doubt very much that he was pulling a fast one on you, particularly as you are a repeat customer. to me it sounds like a somewhat crude, but effective way to put a load on a starter.
Lock Torque Test:
Fasten a brake arm of wood or metal rigidly to armature
shaft so that armature can only revolve by turning brake.
Make brake arm one foot in length from center of shaft to
outer end and fasten a spring balance to end or rest on scale
capable of reading equivalent of lock torque in pounds.
(Starter lock torque 8-12 pound feet. With starters using
reduction gears lock torque may be as high as 70 pound
feet.) Close starter switch and note scale reading. Reading
in pounds will give lock torque of starter in pound feet. Compare
figure and ammeter and voltmeter readings with figures
given on car data sheet. If starter does not develop full lock torque
examine for internal defects as directed in section on
"Starter and Generator Internal Testing."
Fasten brake arm to armature shaft so that starter can
revolve and friction between brake arm and armature shaft
can be varied. Make bearing surface of brake arm in two
pieces straddling shaft and held by bolts and thumb nuts.
How much are you saving having him rebuild your starters and such?
Where I really had a savings was on a starter for a front end loader, If I bought from anywhere else, a rebuilt one was a minimum of maybe $ 150, he probably charged me $ 40 to $ 60. On the cars and trucks, not as much of a savings, but when you do find a good quality guy, you tend to want to go back ..... generally I've not had to return to him soon after I got the item taken care of, that sort of speaks for itself .....
Where I really had a savings was on a starter for a front end loader, If I bought from anywhere else, a rebuilt one was a minimum of maybe $ 150, he probably charged me $ 40 to $ 60. On the cars and trucks, not as much of a savings, but when you do find a good quality guy, you tend to want to go back ..... generally I've not had to return to him soon after I got the item taken care of, that sort of speaks for itself .....
I agree, having a guy who knows what he's doing and charges a decent rate is a rare find and worth doing business with. Since I don't know a guy like that, I tend to spend $40 on rebuilt starters from Napa. Then again, I'm on my 3rd rebuilt, so maybe not always money ahead.