(I posted about this previously, but I didn't have my ducks in a row) Hope this is all the info you guys want. Will get more shots of specific parts as requested.

This is my 1989 Ford F-150, 4x4, 351W, 3-speed A/T (C-6), Ford 8.8 w/3.73 LSD, Lock out hubs, Towing package, XLT, Reg cab, more useless info available upon request.

After replacing the steering sector / gear box. It rode very well.

Though some weeks later it became apparent the steering wasn't quite right.

Eventually it was so lose I decided to check the ball joints.
All seemed OK. So my dad turned the wheel back and forth while
I watched from under the truck.

Much to my dismay the frame was twisting a lot, also the
steering sector was almost falling out. The bolts holding it
in were about an inch out of their holes.

We tightened those immediately. Also getting some high grade
lock washers.

The trouble is the frame still has an excessive twisting issue.

What is going on? There are 3 videos attached. Please be sure
to watch the 3rd one. 15 seconds in you will see 2 rubber pieces.

They start out inline with each other, but then ... I'll let you see.

BTW, the frame is largely free of rust. As is the rest of the truck. Any good guesses are very much appreciated!

Thank you!

View of the steering sector's section of frame LH (left hand / driver's side). Shot from the truck's front LH corner.

View of the shock tower from the truck's front LH corner.

Watch for 15 seconds in! View down the rail from the cab toward the front of the truck. LH side rail.

 

Congratulations, you have a cracked frame and a truck that is unsafe to drive.

Look at your 29 second video and watch the crack open up along the bottom frame flange between the two steering box bolts at 0:06 and again at 0:20.

There is a lot of frame movement going on that would not be going on if you had any structural integrity. Probably a lot more going on under here, but you need to disassemble and inspect.

 

Yea now that you've cleaned some of the grease and dirt off you can see a crack opening and closing on the bottom of the frame, just below and between the two steering gear box bolts.

If you'd just get under it while someone rocks the steering wheel back and forth (as stated in your other thread no need to go full lock to lock) have someone rock the wheel right and left while you look everything over real good using a flash light, you'd see exactly where the problems are if you'd take a few minutes to do that.

Appears in the video as the rear rivet is broke or its hole is wallowed out allowing for movement there (hard to say for sure going by nothing but that short video.

When one aspect of a given structure fails excessive stress is put elsewhere and then it gets weak and fails.

Your videos don't show much, time is lost to waiting for wheels to change direction return from full lock before deflecting frame again.

The damage is going to be more extensive than that, its broke on the inside of the frame as well, it moves way to far to be limited to what is showing from the outside of the rail.

You're gonna have to get under there and look then decide on best way to fix it, gotta say based on your posts here? you really should get someone that knows what they are doing to look at it. Its a safety issue it has got to be done right and chances are its a one time shot if any hope of saving that frame.

You need someone with the know how and equipment its gonna require to fix it right.

 

Agreed. Your frame is cracked plain as day in the first video. It might be fixable but you'll have to see how much more damage there is to be able to tell.

 

OK. 1st Thank you for your responses.

As for the taking it lock to lock. We did it to impart the greatest force on the system. The pump spikes to nearly 10 times the usual PSI when one does that. Not great for the pump, but I needed to get to the bottom of this issue. Even at the pump's expense.

While I do have a lot of experience working on vehicles. A frame repair is not in my comfort zone. Though I can prepare it with a ton of grinding, etc...

Perhaps there is a kit? Or just a new section of frame.

 

no kit that i know of and a new section of the frame will be just as hard if not harder than repairing what you have FROM WHAT IS VISIBLE. as was said above it is very hard to tell from the video exactly how bad it is, but since you said you are not comfortable with doing this work it is going to warrant taking the truck into a frame shop. when repaired the vehicle will be good as new. the frame on my 94 f150 plow truck was cracked before we put the snow plow on it so we fishplated it and has been good to go ever since. you also need to figure out how bad your frame is and if there is any other damages, which again may warrant you going to a frame shop.

 

As bad as that thing is flexing, if it were my truck I would find someone parting out an F-150 or Bronco and either replace your front section with a section from the donor truck or just do a complete frame swap (F-150 frame only, Bronco frame is different under the cab).

Also, don't grind on your frame and try to prep it for repair. Unless you just mean cleaning it up. But don't vee out the cracks for the welder, let him do it himself.

 

That truck is no longer road worthy. Start looking for a frame donor or a new truck.

 

That reminds me of the damage done by a previous owner.

Some idiots didn't want to buy a real plow mount, so they welded a section of C-channel inside the frame rails. I ended up doing a lot of cutting to make it so the bumper would sit half ways normal.

Last craigslist truck I buy.

 

Good to know. There are a couple people guys around town who part them out.

BUT, what years can I use?

Hope a 96 F-350 is not compatible. Just parted one out and sent the frame away.

 

F-250/350 4x4 are set up for leaf spring front suspension so no, not gonna work easily.

You SHOULD be able to use any 97-96 F-150 4x4 frame with the same wheelbase as your truck. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong about this.

 

For a strait swap, he will want a '87-'91 frame from a truck of the same cab and bed configuration. The front frame horns are different on the '92-'96 trucks.

 

Oh yeah that's right. The 92+ half ton frames had that bullcrap crumple zone in the front so probably different bumper mounts too.

And they are double wall up front around that.

 

Some additional up close videos for those who are interested.
https://www.youtube.com/user/FargoFord/videos