I'm sure there is something on this somewhere but can't seem to find. Getting ready to change injector o rings and see where people say to drive it 200 miles to get it running right again. Well, I am in the process of a conversion and have no tags or insurance on the truck. Trying to fix issues before I spend that money on it because don't know how much I am going to have to put in it to fix the issue's.
Is there a way to bleed out the air so I don't have to drive it 200 miles? Also, how long will it smoke after the injector change to see if it is actually fixed? I know I should probably see a big difference is ICP,IPR and such. Already know it has leaks in the turbo up pipes which will have to be dealt with too. Any advice would be much appreciated!

 

The bad smoke will be gone in a couple of miles if you stomp on it for those two miles. Slower starts and a slightly rougher idle might continue for a while after that, but nothing that would be something you couldn't live with.

Not sure where 200 miles came from. Rule of thumb used to be around 50 miles, with some aggressive throttle work along the way.

 

You will have less chance of air introducing into the hpop system if you refill the hpop and the oil rails

 

My truck was back to its old self after about 10 miles. It did let out a big cloud when it first fired after new orings and once again when I put my foot into it to get on the freeway. I did not experience hard starts after the initial fire up.

 

Thank you guys. May finally get a chance to change out the o rings. Have had to be the good neighbor the last few days. Would much rather turn wrenches than be on the end of a shovel.

 

Aggressive throttle on the road raises the ICP, which forces the air out quicker. Doing a KOER with a scan tool will have the same effect, but "the book" says not to do this. A long drive, or a short aggressive drive and an overnight sit has cleared air from the oil for me many times. Driveway idling will clear the smoke, but the long cranks don't stop until all air is clear.

 

Thank you Tugly. Hopefully will get to start on it in a few minutes. If nothing else comes up.

 

Wow, have worked on vans before but this is the tightest fit I have ever dealt with. Driver side VC wasn't easy but passenger is almost impossible. lol But no laughing matter. Through the wheel well to get to VC bolts and one a trip to the store to try and get it out. Thought I hade about every kind of tool. Guess not.
Anyway, when got the driver side off found that one injector has been replaced and the wiring harness looks pretty new too. Check to see if any were loose but none were moving any at all and don't think any oil was coming up around them from what I can tell but can't really get in there to see. Put a wrench to the first one and turned it a little with a quarter inch ratchet. So, didn't have a digital or clicker torque wrench but had the old needle type for inch pounds. Tightened on the first one and it was maybe 80 inch lbs and the new one was about 60 from what I could tell. Went and got a special socket and a clicker style inch pound torque wrench to check the rest. Never got the other VC off. Got dark on me. Hard to believe they were only 60-80 inch pounds tight. Really hoping my cups aren't bad. Couldn't imagine trying to do those in this tight of space.
Anyone got any E series tips on injector work? Hoping the injectors will come out on the passenger side..lol Even the VC will be tight.

 

Not tips for a van, but you should be able to go to the DMV (fun right) and get a 30 day transport permit. Don't remember how much but was cheap if not free (doubting that now that I think).

 

If I was moving it out of state I could and have gotten them in the past. We do have a 45 Day temporary plate that can be gotten in special circumstances title errors. Not sure if it would apply to this or not. Another problem I have is my insurance company says they want insure a commercial vehicle. E450. Tried to tell them it was my personal truck but said it didn't matter. lol Told then they insure motor homes on the same chassis. Still said no. Geico. Go figure!

 

I have heard of some people having the same problem with any 450 or 550 (F or E) on personal insurance policy. This rule or scrutiny seems to vary from company to company though.

 

I have 13mm and 10mm flex sockets, with gobs-O-extensions to get in places I really don't want to reach.

60-80 inch/pounds? Those were some noisy injectors. You were also losing ICP to the O-ring gods on that newer injector. If you lost a cup, you wouldn't be wondering about it - there would be fuel floating on top of your coolant or soot lining the degas bottle.

 

Yeah may have been 80. Couldn't really get to them with the old style torque wrench. As loose as the new one was don't think they replaced all the o rings. Getting ready to get back to it. Was looking for the video on pulling the injectors. Saw one a while back and wanted to refresh my memory which isn't that good these days. lol Have a link?
I had a nice swivel 13 but someone liked it more than me. Looked for one last night and seems no one sells then by themselves anymore. Saw a cornwell tool truck and he wants $42 for 1. Told him I could buy a whole set for that. May have to go that route. All I could find last night were impact which is to bulky.

 

Mine is a bulky impact, and Scott can vouch for me when I say it works just fine. I used it on his and my truck when I visited him. That one 13mm cost me $34, but I got an Armstrong. If you go to the Irish parts store (or many other car parts/tool stores), you can get what you need.

 

Got back into it today. Working on the E series is a real pain in the, well you know what I mean. Got the covers of the other side and torqued the bolts just to see were they were. Every one turned at least 3/8 to 1/2 a turn before the torque wrench clicked. One even more. Pulled the oil rail drain plugs and took out the plugs on the hpop rail I guess it's called. Should have warmed the engine first. Was thick and slow so letting it drain overnight. One a positive note, It was very clean under the VC and on the injectors. Tells me that at least it has had the oil changed on a regular basis. One question is. The Turbo has Garrett on the side of it. Is the a stock turbo or has it been changed? Wish the guy I bought it from would come up with the service records on it. Could save me some time and possible some money.