First let me apologize for the lengthy post that is to follow, but I want to hit the highlights so whoever takes the time to actually read it, kind of has an idea where I am coming from.

Been having tranny issues with this truck on and off for the last three plus years. It broke down I had it rebuilt by a local shop(couldn't and still can't afford the BTS I want or an HD4R100), had injector issues so the truck was down for a long time, when I got the injector issues handled enough to drive the truck again, it ended up breaking the input shaft and damaging the front drum with some wear noted on the clutches, so they replaced the front drum, input shaft, and put new clutches in. The torque converter had part of the shaft stuck in it, so they replaced that as well. Pics of that carnage below.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14294138



Then that new torque converter started to slip almost immediately but I had issues with bad internal o-rings on the truck and it took me a loooong time to iron that out, but once I did, I had a tough back and forth with the transmission place to get them to fix the problem, but eventually they put a 3rd torque converter in it and replaced the solenoid packs. I was happy when I got it back, but I did notice the torque converter was occasionally not staying locked. And that is where I have been for about a year, driving the truck with the torque converter slipping in and out of lock. I do not want to deal with the shop that rebuilt it but I want to fix it. I have not hauled anything heavier than a buddy's 19 foot center console with it, but eventually would like to, plus I plow and ride around with an 8.5 foot Western Ultramount and at least a ton of salt in my poly v spreader in the winter.


I have been reading a decent amount about torque converters in these trucks and have decided that I want to get a new triple disc torque converter with a lower stall speed. These trucks have optimum torque at 1600 rpm but the "powers that be" saw fit to set our stall speed at 2100rpm (I believe), and that doesn't help the mileage and application of optimum torque when you are towing. They have torque converters that have stall speeds of 1900 and 1600rpm for these trucks and I want to go that route, just not sure what the pro's and cons totally are between those two.

So any reason this torque converter would do what it is doing OTHER than it being bad itself? I don't want to go through all the trouble and expense of buying a triple disc billet converter in the stall speed I want and have it not work like it should because of some other issue that actually was the cause of all this.

I have video of the speedometer and tach showing what exactly the torque converter is doing, but I can't figure out how to get it in the right format to post it to youtube, so if someone could help me figure that out, I will gladly post it.

 

Swamp's had a dissertation on stall speed I seem to recall.

 

Dan, I can't find any of their tech articles on their site any more.

 

Here is a video from this morning of it doing what I am talking about. It will lock and unlock as I am on a very slight grade with steady pressure to maintain speed or slightly accelerate. It is were it definitely should not have to unlock.

 

I think they were a fan of higher stall.

 

I wonder why? The stuff I have been reading has been saying on the 7.3, the lower the stall the sooner you are putting maximum torque to the ground. The stock stall being so high hurts mileage as well. I know with mine slipping in and out of lock my mileage suffers.

 

I'd bet it has something to do with building boost.

I see they offer the DieselSite trans now. Get in contact with Bob Riley at DieselSite and ask him.

My trans that I got from Bob long ago has a lower stall, and it will creep at idle up a pretty steep hill.

 

Absolutely! I'll bet 75% of the time this happens the problem is NOT the torque converter. The first step is to see if any codes are stored.

I disagree, unless it is a modified engine.

 

That's what they do. For what "they" are trying to accomplish it might be correct...for them. I like what I have.

 

Thanks for chiming in Mark. I have AE and will run a diagnostic on it, I don't think anything is stored though. It has been doing it a long time, and I have had it hooked up in the past with no transmission codes. In fact, about 6 weeks ago, I was messing around with re calibrating the speedometer because I went back down to 33inch tires, and I had no transmission codes.

 

Hate to say it Jason but you got enough money in that trans to have had a HD4R100. I'd say you should of went that way. Or just have BTS ship you one and have it installed. Anyway I love your posts and I've had my own problems as well, good luck with it. I've had my problems with JW to and he isn't as nice as BTS about taking care of it as I've read.

 

Have you driven down the road with ae hooked up watching to see if it is being commanded to unlock or if it's doing this by itself?

 

Jason,

I just noted that your pushing a 9 ft western (so am I) and hauling a spreader.

You stated you just went down to 33 inch tires 6 weeks ago.......

I'm just wondering if trying to turn those tall tires working that plow might lend to an early demise of your trans/converter.

Do you have an external trans cooler??

Just wondering?

Denny

 

Every single one of them left the factory with an external cooler.

 

I realize that Mark, thanx for your input, I should have asked if he upgraded the cooler since it is a hard service truck and heat is definitely an issue pushing our 9 footers (plows) in heavy snow. Running tall tires is absolutely a burden on transmissions on these rigs/any rig when you do a lot of backing and ramming in close quarters. Things heat up in a hurry.

Denny