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no response to the pedal at all then all of the sudden it kicked in and the truck took off. no i didnt get a MIL sometimes i swear i see it flash though. but it never sets a code. if i force the pedal down the highest reading i get is 3.91 volts. Reason im looking into this is because it makes no sense that my max voltage is 3.76 when the tps is supplied with 5 volts so like you said you should see .5 at idle then 4.5 WOT making a full 5 volt signal. I'm no where close to that plus I'm having hard shifts and sluggish performance once in a while then the pedal didn't work the other day. Also i have the adjustable pedals just so we are all on the same page.
The most you'll ever see out of the APP sensor is 4.5 volts, not 5.0. It's not uncommon to see less than 4.5 with the pedal mashed. At the risk of sounding like Captain Obvious, you don't have a floor mat obstructing it, do you?
no response to the pedal at all then all of the sudden it kicked in and the truck took off. no i didnt get a MIL sometimes i swear i see it flash though. but it never sets a code. if i force the pedal down the highest reading i get is 3.91 volts. Reason im looking into this is because it makes no sense that my max voltage is 3.76 when the tps is supplied with 5 volts so like you said you should see .5 at idle then 4.5 WOT making a full 5 volt signal. I'm no where close to that plus I'm having hard shifts and sluggish performance once in a while then the pedal didn't work the other day. Also i have the adjustable pedals just so we are all on the same page.
You are partially right. It does need to see at least 4 volts to register as WOT. However, you will never see 5 volts. While the supply voltage is theoretically 5 volts; in reality, its never quite there, by the time it gets to the various sensors. Remember, voltage drops over the length of a wire, and 5 volts isn't much to start with.
As has been stated, check to make sure there is no physical obstruction, such as floor mats. If not, then I would replace the APPS, which is the parts correct term. These trucks do not have a TPS, they have an Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor. Its important, because if you try to look up a TPS, you won't find one, at AZ, Advance, RockAuto, etc.... They all list is as the pedal sensor, as they should.
Also, check and/or clean the IVS (Idle Validation Switch), which is also on the pedal assembly. Its a simple on/off microswitch, but if sticks or is otherwise not working, the pcm will ignore the APS input, and refuse to do anything but idle. So, if it is going on/off intermittently, that could be really confusing your truck.
im thinking about spraying contact cleaner on it because since mine is the 5 wire set up with adjustable pedal i cannot see the IVS its just a seperate set of contacts inside my IVS/APP box which i have opened up already. I will spray contact cleaner on it and see what happens but just cleaning the contacts up with a swab did make the truck run much better. But now im back in the dumps with it. I noticed on shopkeypro they call it the APP also so i understand where youre coming from. Other forums claim 3.76 is WOT others say its not. So i need to find a clear answer before i go any further and no the floor matt isnt in the way i was hoping that was my problem. Regardless something is wrong with the truck so i have to figure it out i have checked every PID and im not seeing anything else strange. Another one of these intermittent problems.... tomorrow im going to try to call ford and get an answer from them on WOT voltage because this is an expensive repair on this truck since the whole pedal assembly has to be replaced. I have check the signal from the pcm and i am getting 5.01 volts to the pig tail so i know the APP/IVS is receiving the correct voltage to work with.
Every truck is different, but 3.8 volts is a common WOT reading.
Hey tugly.... I unplugged my map sensor and my truck seems to be running much better. It doesn't have that defueling feeling or harsh shifts... I've been running with it unplugged for 2 days now to see if my issues come back but so far nothing. Can you shed some light on how the ebp/map work together? I've been told they work together and I have already replaced my ebp a few years back due to a plugged line and sensor. Would a skewed map reading cause defueling and over all just poor performance maybe even defuel my truck so bad my fuel pedal seemed dead? Seems far fetched but we are talking about the wonderful field of automotive!
Hey tugly.... I unplugged my map sensor and my truck seems to be running much better. It doesn't have that defueling feeling or harsh shifts... I've been running with it unplugged for 2 days now to see if my issues come back but so far nothing. Can you shed some light on how the ebp/map work together? I've been told they work together and I have already replaced my ebp a few years back due to a plugged line and sensor. Would a skewed map reading cause defueling and over all just poor performance maybe even defuel my truck so bad my fuel pedal seemed dead? Seems far fetched but we are talking about the wonderful field of automotive!
Never mind guys I figured it out. My map sensor is going bad I just swapped it with a friends and the truck ran stronger than ever. I'm actually building boost too.... Guess I was just used to a weak running 7.3 for so long it had to get severe before I noticed. Thanks for the help though
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